Starter Question on 94 350

[alrxl600]

I recently pushed a new to me 94 DR350 Electric start only into my garage as my neighbor replaced it with a running CR. His guess is electrical problems so I started with a spark check. With the plug out and jumper cables from my truck (engine not running) there was consistent blue spark from the new plug. The head light also came on so I figure this is a good sign. When I pull the clutch, the lever does not return. I figure this is not a good sign.. I drained all the gas from the carb and tank, filled the float bowl w/ carb cleaner and let it sit overnight on the trickle charger. Next day, carb cleaner out, new gas in. Nothing from the battery so jumper cables back on and new plug back in. With the plug in, it only sounds like the motor is cranking one rotation, not even a full cycle. The jumper cable handle heated up and that was the end of that.

 

I have no Clymer manual yet but I'm wondering if the lack of engine turn over and clutch not returning have any relation? The clutch does engage and disengage as the wheel skids when attempting a push start even in 3rd gear. I can push it with a fair amount of difficulty with the clutch pulled in and pushing the lever back out works the clutch. Oil is touching the bottom of the dipstick. It sat in the AZ heat of his garage for 3-4 years. Any opinions? Keep trying or push it back across the street? I have a basic amount of mechanical ability, got rid of my XL due to lack of time and ability to completely re-build......

[zig06]

I recently pushed a new to me 94 DR350 Electric start only into my garage as my neighbor replaced it with a running CR. His guess is electrical problems so I started with a spark check. With the plug out and jumper cables from my truck (engine not running) there was consistent blue spark from the new plug. The head light also came on so I figure this is a good sign. When I pull the clutch, the lever does not return. I figure this is not a good sign.. I drained all the gas from the carb and tank, filled the float bowl w/ carb cleaner and let it sit overnight on the trickle charger. Next day, carb cleaner out, new gas in. Nothing from the battery so jumper cables back on and new plug back in. With the plug in, it only sounds like the motor is cranking one rotation, not even a full cycle. The jumper cable handle heated up and that was the end of that.

 

I have no Clymer manual yet but I'm wondering if the lack of engine turn over and clutch not returning have any relation? The clutch does engage and disengage as the wheel skids when attempting a push start even in 3rd gear. I can push it with a fair amount of difficulty with the clutch pulled in and pushing the lever back out works the clutch. Oil is touching the bottom of the dipstick. It sat in the AZ heat of his garage for 3-4 years. Any opinions? Keep trying or push it back across the street? I have a basic amount of mechanical ability, got rid of my XL due to lack of time and ability to completely re-build......

 

A sticky clutch isn't a big deal, it's actually very common on a bike that's sat for a long time.  In your case you will need to pull the clutch cover, then the pressure plate and then manually disassemble the clutch plates and then reassemble ~ that should do it.  There's a chance that the cable is junk, so before pulling the clutch cover off, remove the clutch cable and make sure that it's not sticking, if it is don't lube it, just replace it ~ after 20 years it's exceeded it's expected design life.

 

After you get done messing with the clutch, pull the carb and clean it.  You might get lucky with a carb that's sat for a year "maybe" two, but 3 or 4 is pushing it. 

 

As for the electric start, put the trans in neutral and pull the spark plug.  Then hook up your battery cables and see if it'll turn over, if it turns over fast then you need a new battery.  If this bike really did sit for 3 or more years any battery would be toast. 

[alrxl600]

A sticky clutch isn't a big deal, it's actually very common on a bike that's sat for a long time.  In your case you will need to pull the clutch cover, then the pressure plate and then manually disassemble the clutch plates and then reassemble ~ that should do it.  There's a chance that the cable is junk, so before pulling the clutch cover off, remove the clutch cable and make sure that it's not sticking, if it is don't lube it, just replace it ~ after 20 years it's exceeded it's expected design life.

 

After you get done messing with the clutch, pull the carb and clean it.  You might get lucky with a carb that's sat for a year "maybe" two, but 3 or 4 is pushing it. 

 

As for the electric start, put the trans in neutral and pull the spark plug.  Then hook up your battery cables and see if it'll turn over, if it turns over fast then you need a new battery.  If this bike really did sit for 3 or more years any battery would be toast. 

Thanks a ton, I'm on it! A street bike I had years ago would still jump start with its battery deader than a door nail. Is this not the case with the DR? It won't go with just a jump?  When I checked it for spark, it did turn over and gave me a nice blue spark. I'll try it again to see how it does, probably a few squirts of oil in the cylinder first... the clutch actuating lever/rod does move on the crank case so it must be the plates, I'll dig into that. Thanks again!!

[zig06]

Thanks a ton, I'm on it! A street bike I had years ago would still jump start with its battery deader than a door nail. Is this not the case with the DR? It won't go with just a jump?  When I checked it for spark, it did turn over and gave me a nice blue spark. I'll try it again to see how it does, probably a few squirts of oil in the cylinder first... the clutch actuating lever/rod does move on the crank case so it must be the plates, I'll dig into that. Thanks again!!

 

Yup, your DR should start with a battery jump, just be careful not to over do it when you start cranking on the starter as they are "kind of" easy to over heat (5 seconds on 10 seconds off is a mostly safe duty cycle).  My bigger concern is that the carb float bowl might be corroded or just full of junk from sitting so long.  If your bike doesn't start right away, or after 4 or 5 cranking cycles, then consider pulling the carb.

[alrxl600]

Nope, it will only turn over sounds like one crank rotation. I let off the starter button then it will go another rotation. I took the plug out and tried it and it would turn over fine but seemed slow from the way I remember my street bike cranking (inline 4, 550cc). After 4-5 shots on the starter button, the jumper cable handles were warm also. So it won't crank with compression. Is there an automatic compression release that may be stuck? My XL had one connected to the kickstart and a manual one for clearing out if it flooded. I think I need to get the manual to see how many amps the starter should be drawing and to get the clutch and carb taken care of. Do you know if the starters have issues in general? I think I'm getting payback for talking trash to my buddies that had electric start quads when we were out and I had my old XL that would start with a man-kick before it died........Thanks again!

[plugeye]

if the motor is stock & hadn't been replaced, it has an auto-compression release on the cam shaft.

[alrxl600]

I'll give that a look and also try jumping it without the dead battery in the circuit. Thanks!! 

[alrxl600]

OK, I took the starter out, cleaned all the gunk out of it, buffed the commutator(?) and connected the jumper cables directly to the battery cables, leaving the dead battery completely out of the circuit. When it did spin it sounded better but still wouldn't spin over multiple revolutions. The positive cable has 4-5 broken strands, so I connected the jumper cable directly to the starter relay with no change. My neighbor (who I got it from) said he recalled it not jumping either, only cranking over with its own battery. Have any of you experienced this, only the bike's battery working things? I need to get past this to get to even thinking about the carb and stuff.....I'm thinking I need to go get the battery anyway...

[alrxl600]

It's runnin'! The battery cable had some loose strands, soldered them solid while I look for one that's intact or make one and cleaned out the carb from all the crystalized gas and there she is! Next is disconnect the silly kickstand lockout switch and tune up and then blast the desert!!!  The clutch was just cable adjustment, it's about 50lbs less pull than my old XL600!