2014 yz450f fork/shock oil change help.

Yamaha YZ450F 2014

40 replies to this topic
  • GHILL28

Posted January 22, 2015 - 08:15 AM

#21

I've tried that a couple times before on the older shocks and was never able to get the blue housing to engage into the silver housing by backing it out.  I guess I can try on this newer one with the bike on its side to top it off.  Gotta love how easy the access is to the shocks on these new bikes.

 

I agree about the bleeder screws.  Not gutsy enough to hack up my brand new shock though.  I have a couple older ones I can try it out on.



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 02, 2015 - 09:40 PM

#22

Alright ive got a few more questions before I jump into this on Sunday . The manual has 2 standard oil amount "cc" one is the 335 cc and 355 cc . and then an "extent of adj. 300-365cc

Which oil amount is stock ? 335? 355?

And for the dampner assy. They give a standard oil amount of 204cc and then there's a standard oil level adjustment of 145-148mm. Why do they give you 2 ways to measure the amount of oil in the dampner assy.?

Thanks!

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by yzUSMCf, February 03, 2015 - 06:39 AM.


  • JS264

Posted February 03, 2015 - 01:03 AM

#23

It's a bit of a PITA, isn't it? I take take the Comp adjuster apart by using the LS screw slot to turn the HS nut/LS screw assembly down out of the adjuster housing. With the shock filled and bled internally, stack the adjuster core on top of the exchange piston shaft. That takes up almost all of the available space, and if you then fill the adjuster chamber as full as you can get it, there's very little room for any air. When you then screw the adjuster housing down onto the adjuster (as you simultaneously screw the adjuster back into the housing), the housing displaces pretty much all of the remaining air out.

Something that you have to watch out for is that you have the shock horizontal enough to keep the adjuster cavity filled, but at the same time, upright enough to let all the air out of the reservoir chamber.

One of these days, I'm going to start putting bleeder screws in them. There's a boss for one right under the top shock eye.


I have mastered the kyb
hs comp bleed method. Split it, back out the low speed screw and put the adjuster on the piston stem. Place housing over adjuster and turn adjuster 1.5 turns or so backwards to engage the threads then screw the housing in to the body. Turn by hand only! Push down on adjuster while turning in housing. Stop when o ring is almost down to the body. Apply 10psi to bladder and push down on the adjuster with your thumb. Watch all the tiny little bubbles come out, back out the adjuster and tighten the housing. Enjoy.

  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 06, 2015 - 07:50 AM

#24

Alright ive got a few more questions before I jump into this on Sunday . The manual has 2 standard oil amount "cc" one is the 335 cc and 355 cc . and then an "extent of adj. 300-365cc

Which oil amount is stock ? 335? 355?

And for the dampner assy. They give a standard oil amount of 204cc and then there's a standard oil level adjustment of 145-148mm. Why do they give you 2 ways to measure the amount of oil in the dampner assy.?

Thanks!


Anyone? ?

  • GHILL28

Posted February 06, 2015 - 08:04 AM

#25

There's no oil "amount" for the damper.  Just whatever it takes to get it bled of air.  It's around 200cc but there's no point in measuring really.

 

335cc is pretty normal for the outside.



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 06, 2015 - 08:08 AM

#26

There's no oil "amount" for the damper. Just whatever it takes to get it bled of air. It's around 200cc but there's no point in measuring really.

335cc is pretty normal for the outside.

thanks for replying! I'll just try 335. And if I don't like it I'll add some.

  • GHILL28

Posted February 06, 2015 - 08:13 AM

#27

Drill the IC pistons too while you're in there.  Only takes a minute.



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 06, 2015 - 08:18 AM

#28

Drill the IC pistons too while you're in there. Only takes a minute.

do you have a tread? I'm not sure what part that is . The cone piston that sits on the top of the spring?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 06, 2015 - 11:19 AM

#29

The IC piston is the "inner chamber" piston, aka "free piston".  It's the white plastic part on the base valve assembly.  Here's a link:

 

http://api.viglink.c.../YZMODASSEM.htm

 

Reread the first link I posted earlier regarding filling and bleeding the cartridge.  Understand that you deliberately overfill it, and that the trapped air and the excess oil are burped out in the process, so that the unit ends up completely full.

 

The level of oil in the outer chamber has an effect on the feel of the fork when it is deep in the stroke because it changes the amount of captive air in th eouter chamber.  The air behaves as a spring, and the more space it has (less oil) the more plush the fork will be overall.  Start at 330-335, and add oil 5cc per side at a time if you have trouble with the fork bottoming that can't be fixed to your satisfaction by running more compression damping.



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 06, 2015 - 12:18 PM

#30

The IC piston is the "inner chamber" piston, aka "free piston". It's the white plastic part on the base valve assembly. Here's a link:

http://api.viglink.c.../YZMODASSEM.htm

Reread the first link I posted earlier regarding filling and bleeding the cartridge. Understand that you deliberately overfill it, and that the trapped air and the excess oil are burped out in the process, so that the unit ends up completely full.

The level of oil in the outer chamber has an effect on the feel of the fork when it is deep in the stroke because it changes the amount of captive air in th eouter chamber. The air behaves as a spring, and the more space it has (less oil) the more plush the fork will be overall. Start at 330-335, and add oil 5cc per side at a time if you have trouble with the fork bottoming that can't be fixed to your satisfaction by running more compression damping.

awsome clear good info. I haven't had bottoming issues . It does go through on certain hits like overclearing large jumps but I never feel it bottom out , no thud ect but by the lines on the fork shaft you can tell it has gone through the stroke. But I would like for it to be more plush in the beginning stokes to help with breaking bumps and small chop.

Thanks alot!

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  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 11:15 AM

#31

Mabe something you guys can clear up for me. I'm doing alot of Reading and videos about free piston mod and I'm wondering what's the purpose I read to prevent the free piston from cracking from pressure and also to let oil drain which helps for suspension performance. I also see some drill 1/16 size hole and some go bigger 5mm I be level the older forks you should use 1/16 and the newer like mine need the 5mm?

  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 11:33 AM

#32

The IC piston is the "inner chamber" piston, aka "free piston". It's the white plastic part on the base valve assembly. Here's a link:

http://api.viglink.c.../YZMODASSEM.htm

Reread the first link I posted earlier regarding filling and bleeding the cartridge. Understand that you deliberately overfill it, and that the trapped air and the excess oil are burped out in the process, so that the unit ends up completely full.

The level of oil in the outer chamber has an effect on the feel of the fork when it is deep in the stroke because it changes the amount of captive air in th eouter chamber. The air behaves as a spring, and the more space it has (less oil) the more plush the fork will be overall. Start at 330-335, and add oil 5cc per side at a time if you have trouble with the fork bottoming that can't be fixed to your satisfaction by running more compression damping.

in the link you shared he says to drill 4 small holes on the late model forks. We're as this guy in the vid drills 2 larger holes I'm confused on how many and what size I should drill :huh:

I've got to be getting annoying by now! Lol

  • grayracer513

Posted February 08, 2015 - 12:24 PM

#33

Overthinking a little, maybe.

 

Drill either or 4 5mm holes.  The size isn't too critical at all, really. 



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 12:46 PM

#34

Like I said, call Mark at 2 Dads. He'll set you up. Mark buys used parts (in excellent condition). I'm sure he'll have several for you.

yep that's what I'm doing lol. I can't help it ...it's my baby :lol:

  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 01:29 PM

#35

Is the crack in the plastic washer normal?

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  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 04:57 PM

#36

Is the crack in the plastic washer normal?

they both were the same size I'm assuming there all good

  • grayracer513

Posted February 08, 2015 - 05:54 PM

#37

That is a "scarf-cut" seal.  It's designed to expand to fit the bore without loosing the seal at the ends.  For high pressure applications. 



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 06:09 PM

#38

I think I got it bled decent the dampner rod would extend and I had to pull it about 1/2 out to full extention. I couldn't hear crackling of bubbles once back together and cycling it.

  • GHILL28

Posted February 08, 2015 - 06:19 PM

#39

1/2 inch or 1/2 way?



  • yzUSMCf

Posted February 08, 2015 - 06:20 PM

#40

1/2 inch





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