Picked up a 1998 DR350SE Last Night

[tOnnn]

Picked up a 1998 DR350SE Last Night

 

After searching for a few weeks for a dual sport, reading many reviews, I settled on a DR350 ...didn't really matter what year. Last night I picked this 1998 DR350 15k miles on it for $900, looks completely stock. It was listed as "Great Condition" ...it's starts right up (electric start, was kind of hoping for kick), but definitely needs some generous TLC.

 

First things first is a very very very good wash, there's dirt just layered and caked on it (can't really tell in pictures, but it's there). Front brakes are AWFUL ..I think it needs a new master cylinder, very tight short pull and they pretty much lock up, and the reservoir lid has a stripped and rusted screw. Not sure if a brake fluid flush will solve the pull problem or not. Then the usual, oil, oil filter, clean or replace air filter, check valves, throttle needs some adjustment and eventually suspension needs to be addressed (soft and pretty fluffy right now). Carb prob needs to be cleaned and possibly re-jetted. It was bogging down a bit when revving up. I mean, for $900 I knew it was going to need some work, think I got a pretty good deal on it considering. 

 

So this weekend i'll be ordering/going to the store some goodies...

 

Oil

Oil Filter

Brake Fluid

Front Master Cylinder (possibly)

Rear Fender (found a UFO fender on bike bandit ...anyone recommend another one)?

Front Fender (Acerbis Supermoto: http://www.bikebandit.com/aftermarket-parts/motorcycle-body/fenders-mud-flaps-universal/acerbis-supermoto-front-fender)

Hand Guards

Front & Rear LED turn signals (guessing i'll need a signal stabilizer or the like)

Small Tail light & plate holder for under fender mounting

Mirrors

Handlebars (torn between a few...Renthal, Fly & Pro Taper)

Grips

 

I think that's all for now lol ...In the very near future i'll be getting:

New Tires, I want something more for off-roading (which this will be primarily used for) ...i'll probably just be doing short around the town trips on the street, so a more dirt friendly tire would be preferred.

New headlight setup. I like the Cycleops and stumbled across the Buell light mod as well, which looks awesome

For exhaust, most likely will go with a DG slip on, saw them for $150 on eBay.

Pumper Carb, I read good things about them on here

 

Please feel free to give your suggestions and input on anything listed above, probably won't be ordering till later in the day Saturday or Sunday. 

 

 

Edited January 16, 2015 by tOnnn

[TorqueNut]

First,

You got a great deal on a running bike with e-start.

My bias would be to get the brakes sorted, the current carb cleaned, oil and filter changed, and then the front forks flushed and maybe re-sprung to your weight and riding style. Then you'll have a great starting spot to decide how you want to personalize it. This forum is a great resource for gathering other rider's experiences with equipment they've experimented with... Can save you some time and headaches.

I left the front springs alone, but flushed the forks and went up to 10w oil. ProTaper bars.

I've gotten the CV carb now sorted and I'm still using it. My riding style doesn't require instant throttle response of the pumper.

Good luck!

[plugeye]

great score.

[tOnnn]

Thanks gents.

 

TorqueNut - I added fork oil to the list, need to do some research on what weight to get, deff will be doing that. I downloaded the shop manual just need to do some reading on the process of chaning that, as well ad adjusting the front and rear...I'm a smaller guy, 5'10" 140 lbs, so something has to change lol. Also - what pro taper bars did you go with?

 

Anyone think a simple brake flush would do the trick for the front brakes? I have no idea when or if the fluid has ever been changed, but I also have never felt a brake so tight ...which makes me think the master cylinder could be bad. 

[TorqueNut]

If a brake caliper piston is gummed up and seized a bit, or the master cylinder plunger is gummed up, you'll get the tight sensation. A flush won't do it.

Of all the bikes I've done, only one was seized at the master cylinder plunger, and that one was seized at the caliper piston end too. Every other one was only at the caliper end.

So, undo the brake bleed nipple on the front brake and pull the lever once. If the tightness is gone and the lever pulls in as fluid shoots out of the bleed point, the master cylinder isn't the problem.

Retighten the nipple and leave the rest of the fluid in the system...you'll need it for what comes next.

Remove the front caliper bolts and the caliper but leave the brake line connected. Now pull the lever again, slowly. The caliper piston probably won't move. Then that's the problem.

Carefully take a big c-clamp and position it with the fixed end of the c on the outside body of the caliper behind the piston and the screw side of the clamp positioned directly on the piston face and in alignment with it to push it IN TO THE CALIPER BODY A BIT. This will break it free.

Undo the c-clamp, and slowly pull in on the brake lever and you'll see the piston start to move OUT like it is trying to press on the disk. That means you broke it loose. Don't do the lever fast! Once the caliper piston has come loose, it can come out of the caliper body with a lot of force. Continue to pull the lever slowly until the piston is forced ALL THE WAY out from behind with hydraulic pressure. DON'T STOP MID WAY AND THINK "HEY THE PISTON IS STICKING UP NOW I CAN JUST GRAB IT WITH SOMETHING AND PULL IT FREE". That's a rookie mistake.

With the piston pressed all the way out, TAKE THE BRAKE LINE OFF THE CALIPER & clean everything up... Get the gunk out of the caliper and off the piston and get the same crud out of the master cylinder at the handlebar. Be careful not to scratch the piston or the inside of the caliper body.

Fresh brake fluid is DRY and attracts moisture. That's why cans of brake fluid are always sealed carefully at the factory and the reservoir on the bike has its seal. Moisture that has worked into it over the years created the gunk you'll find. That's why we are told to change brake fluid once in a while. Don't use an old can of brake fluid that's been opened.

Good luck!

[tOnnn]

TorqueNut - Thanks man, makes more sense that it's the caliper. You're instructions are very clear, I appreciate it ...hopefully will get to messing with that tomorrow. If it by any chance happens to be the master cylinder, I found rebuild kits for ~$12 so no harm there.

[enduro350rider]

you found yourself a good bike, i am not a fan of e-start though.

 

the Dr gets the job done for a dual sport bike, take care of it and it will go forever

[tOnnn]

Yeah, finally had a chance to start tearing it down. Have a bunch of parts coming my way. Just curious, why aren't you a fan of the estarts?

[thedktor]

Good advice from TorqueNut ref the calliper.  I'me going to post up a thread that you might find useful ?

[zig06]

.... Just curious, why aren't you a fan of the estarts?

 

He most likely enjoys kicking his DR 30 or 40 times before it starts and as such has a certain level of distain towards any DR350 owner that doesn't have to endure the same level of pain.

 

I personally think that you got a great deal and think that it's going to be an excellent project!

[tOnnn]

Pulled the exhaust, needs some rust sanded and a fresh spray of high temp paint. Pulled the tank and carb. Going to give it a clean this week. Also tried to detail most of the bike just to clean it up while it's apart. I think it cleaned up really well. Looks so much better than when I brought it home