'04 WR450F Dual Sport

[5spoke]

[5spoke]

I am interested in a dual sport kit for my 03 WR450. I'd like to know what you used for yours. I have a few specific questions:

Did you use the stock headlight assembly just with a different bulb?

Are you still using the acerbis handguards with blinkers?

How did you do your brake light?

Thanks for the input. Any pics you have are appreciated.

Yes, I use the stock head light and bulb. It's a 60W hi 55W low beam bulb and I find it works good enough for a bike like this. It's also about the biggest you can go without upgrading the stator and regulator and still have enough for charging. You can get the bulbs and the 3 prong socket that goes in the back of the bulb at Autozone. You need the socket to get the hi/lo beam to work. I think it was $1.69.

Yes, I like and am still using the hand guards. You need to move the brake line and cut the guards slightly to fit. Replacement parts are also available for them.

Brake light: Came off the AC circuit, at the regulator. Used a banjo pressure sw bolt. You can pick them up a mcycle stores. One wire on the ac circuit and one running back to the tail light connector under the seat. There is no pin in the connector, so I cut the wire out and used a single connector to do this.

One bit of advise when wiring. Try and make the wires removable. It’s not a big deal to cut and join them again, if you needed to, but it’s nice to be able to unclip them quickly if you want to.

[5spoke]

?

[5spoke]

[5spoke]

>I'm in the process of doing the same for my '99 WR.

>I bought the same switch and am doing my research now. I think I will get the Baja Designs DC >Rectifer/Regulator and their battery also.

>I guess my inital question is did you run your turn signals and horn on off the DC power? Also if >I didn't want to have the lights work with the bike off, I guess I wouldn't need a battery at all. >Right? (My bike already had a plate, but the blinkers aren't wired up).

You could run the TS off the AC side. The flasher works with AC. Or at leas the $2 dollar one I bought at Autozone did.

I ran my headlight, taillight, brake light and license plate light on the AC side. TS and horn and battery tender input on the DC/Bat. side using one fuse. The horn works off DC, but what I found is that it will still give a reasonable sound using AC. I think a horn on a bike is a waste of time as nobody pays attention to mcycle's anyway, let alone the squeaky horn. If you want to just have it to make a reasonable sound, to get your plate, you could try and hook it up to the AC side. You might try the sound adj. screw on the back and it might give you a better sound.

If you do this then you can run the whole lot off the AC side. I don't know how much juice the stator puts out on your bike, so you might need to upgrade that rather than the rec/reg. You could also get a small rec/reg to run the TS and horn only. There are cheap ones at auto stores or Radioshack.

Like I said before, there are many ways to wire the bike. You have to decide what is best for you and your situation.

If I were you I would run every thing off the AC side and let the horn just make a weird noise to get the plate. Also check that you don’t have to have the lights on with the bike off to pass your inspection. You might want to run another set of wires from your stator. If you load up one of the small wires in the existing harness too much, you will get a voltage drop on those wires and serious dimming and heating up of that wire will occur due to the higher current. The wires on the existing harness are just thick enough to handle there intended use and not much extra.

A note on the switch: The Hi and lo wires on the switch’s harness were mixed up, so check all the wiring before you install it on the bike.

?

[BigBlueWR]

Thanks for the help ?

It this point I think I may just try running the TS off the AC side, and not even bother with the horn. My bike is already plated, and all I really wanted to do is add the TS. Obviously my bike doesn't come with a battery stock, so I wouldn't mind just using my existing AC power.

I did read on the the Baja Designs site that the '99 WR's had a less powerfull stator than other years. I guess I'll just have to try it and see.

[5spoke]

Over-loading the stator could give you a poor spark situation. The voltage will drop in the circuit, when it's loaded up, and this will relate to a lower voltage over the gap. I'm sure the bike will still run fine, but good spark is important.

Does anyone have info on this?

[5spoke]

5 Spoke,

You have me considering making my own kit.

What I may do is run headlight (with hi/lo) and taillight(with brake) on the AC current.

The turn signals and horn on DC. I will use the same K&S handlebar switch.

Help me figure out the wiring:

1) For the headlight I was thinking about splicing into the wire leading to the headlight bulb just before the bulb, then run it to the handlebar switch and back to the headlight wire. Then install a 3 prong bulb with Hi/Lo. Is it that easy?

2)For the Taillight/brakelight I would install the hydraulic brake switch and run it to the taillight. It already has a dual-filament bulb.... but how do i connect it exactly?

3)Turn signals and horn.. I would splice into the brown wire (DC) which runs behind the headlight to a connector. Or just connect it to the battery terminal? Also, where do I wire in the flasher bulb exactly?

4) I want a bright headlight which probably means I should leave it on the AC side with a 55/60 watt hi/lo right?

5) As for the taillight, leave it as stock on AC side aswell with the hyd. brake sw. I know this is not exactly regulation (15 mins. running light with motor off) but things are pretty easy going up here.

I hope you can help. This would be the way I think my wiring should be. Any suggestions? Any concerns with my set up? Please address each item if you can, I don't want to make any mistakes and screw my bike up or make a mess of the wiring.

My bike is not to be used in the city. It is mainly for travelling on dirt roads to get to spots. I intend for my bike to hold the same performance/off-road features as stock (bright lights) as i like to run trails at night aswell. Have I missed anything?

Anyone else with suggestions/comments?

Please help. Thanks, Ryan

[5spoke]

Quote: 1) For the headlight I was thinking about splicing into the wire leading to the headlight bulb just before the bulb, then run it to the handlebar switch and back to the headlight wire. Then install a 3 prong bulb with Hi/Lo. Is it that easy?

I'm doing this from memory so check it and ask me if something doesn't look right.

The headlight has a yellow and a blue wire that are joined together on one of the bulbs prongs. There is a black wire on the other one and the last one is not used. The easiest is to get a new socket for the headlight at Autozone. They are going to say they don't have one, cause they are idiots, but look at the elec/light bulb section and you will find it. It's $2, I think it

might say for use on a H4 bulb.

Cut the wires off the stock connector. The yellow will go to the main light wire on the sw harness. Blue to the parking wire on the sw. Black to the new bulb socket. High and low from the sw to the bulb socket.

Kill sw: take off your existing kill sw and unplug it from behind the headlight. Cut the wires 2" from the plug and insatll the plug onto the wires on the sw harness and plug it in again. Now your kill sw should work on the new handle bar sw. Make sure you have the ground on the right wire, cause it also runs the Hi LED indicator light on the SW.

I've got to go. I'll carry on later. ?

[RichieGoatGruff]

Just wired up the brake and license plate lights on my 03 WR....Ran the brake light from the battery to an in-line fuse holder(3A fuse) so I'd have a brake light even with the engine off, for safety- I'd hate to stall for some reason and get rear-ended because they didn't see me.

Spliced the plate light into the wire for the tail light....

No horn or turn signals.....in Arizona, we don't need no steenkin' turn signals( and I just don't feel a need for a horn, the only thing I use the one on my FJ for is to honk at friends...)

Where'd you get the switch assembly? Wouldn't mind having one when I get the Hi/Low beams wired....

[5spoke]

It's a K&S #12-0040. Note: the #12-0030 doesn't come with a high beam indicator light. K&S switch I bought mine from peakmoto.com (it shipped the same day, shipping $5). A little more expensive, but I couldn't wait for 4strokes anymore. 4strokes never answered there phone and have weird hours. I think their website has the older style sw, but I'll never know as I couldn't get hold of them. I left messages and never got a reply. I will do my best not to buy from them now. You can get the same parts as they have, for a lot cheaper from other dealers, just do your home work.

[5spoke]

Quote: 2)For the Taillight/brakelight I would install the hydraulic brake switch and run it to the taillight. It already has a dual-filament bulb.... but how do i connect it exactly?

As the other guy said: Run a pos. wire off your bat. to a 3~5A inline fuse. Other side of the fuse will have 2 wires. One for the brake and one for turn signals and horn that will run to the handlebar sw harness.

Take the brake light wire from the fuse and connect it to one of the wires on the brake sw. Other wire from the brake sw goes to a connector that's under the seat towards the back left, near the seat bolt. It has 3 wires running to the tail light and 2 wires running to the headlight. The unused wire running back to the tail light is the brake light wire and you need to tie the brake sw wire into it. I just cut the wire off at the connector and used a seperate plug in connector for the connection so it can be easily removed. ?

[gearbox]

5 Spoke,

Thanks for the help so far....

Shouldn't I keep the tailllight/brake on the AC power though?

[5spoke]

I put the brake light on the ac side on my bike. It all depends what you want to do. I did it so my brake light wouldn't be on, and sucking juice off the batt while starting or if the bike was off and I had my foot on the brake.

For the brake light I spliced into the yellow wire on the reg. (it was the closest AC supply). You have to be very careful doing this, making sure you leave enough wire sticking out the reg. The wires are sealed into the reg. and if you mess up there is no way of attaching a new wire. I used a short wire from the splice and put a single connector onto it so if I had to disconnect the hydraulic brake sw I could just unplug it. It's the same as I explained for the DC connection from there on. Just hook up one of the wires on the brake sw to the splice and run the other back to the the connector as I explained.

I did the turn signals a little different than normal. Again you could do it many diff ways. I wanted the flasher out the way, under the seat, near the batt. There is a nice spot next to the fuses for it. In total I ran 4 wires from the batt area to the headlight in one piece of heatshrink. Just run it next to the other wires along the frame.

I ran a positive wire, from the inline fuse, for the TS input on the sw harness and the horn. Another wire from the flasher to the front TS lights grounds and the other 2 were for the back TS lights from the output of the sw. Instead of running the a positive to the flasher and then to the sw, I ran the positive to the sw and had the flasher on the ground side of the lights (let me know if you are confused). I took the pos wire and hooked it to the TS input on the sw harness and also to one of the conections on the horn. From the other connector on the horn, run it to the horn input on the sw harness. The horn sw uses the same ground as the kill sw.

Now run the TS output's from the sw harness to the respective TS lights, front and back. Then join the grounds from the front lights and connect them to the wire that runs to the flasher. And do the same for the rear TS lights. Join the front and back TS ground's at the falsher and connect them to one of the terminals on the flasher. Connect the other side of the flasher to the batt neg.

I also connected a DC output and the bat tender input to the same inline fuse that I used for the TS's and horn.