Badmeat's 2009 WR450F SM Build



32 replies to this topic
  • badmeat

Posted January 14, 2015 - 07:25 AM

#1

Here's a little info about me....
I will turn 30 this year, have been riding dirt bikes for 20+ years and street bikes for almost 10 (6 years actively), with roughly 25k miles under my belt in that time period.  I became a licensed WERA rider at the beginning of 2012, purchased a full-time track bike in Feb. '12, and found out I was going to be a father in April of that year.  I (sadly) decided to sell my bikes that I had at the time ('03 Kawi 636 track bike, 2004 Kawi 636 street bike, & 2009 CRF250R), to gear up for fatherhood.
 
Now that my daughter has turned two, I've made the decision that I'm getting another street bike, and want a supermoto. My initial thought was to purchase a DRZ400SM, but after some research I have found that most people complain about the lack of power, although they seem to be light on maintenance, as well as bullet-proof.  It seems that the WR450F is a good compromise between lightweight/power and frequent maintenance, like some woods bikes can demand when converted to street duty.
 
 
On January 9th, I picked up a 2009 WR450F for a great deal.  The bike is already wired with the Tusk lighting kit, and is plated/registered as an on-road vehicle in Ohio.  It also came with an FMF Powercore 4 slip-on exhaust.  All that's left for me to do is wire up a brake pressure switch (previous owner skipped that for some reason) and get the horn and e-start working again, before having the out of state inspection completed.  Plans are to go with the Motostrano 'bare bones' SM kit, and a 15T front sprocket (puts me at 15/44).
 
Here are some pics (please excuse my mess of a basement....we just moved in Sept, and I'm currently building shelving for all of our junk):
 
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The teardown begins
2F1C052F-EC87-4DB3-B2ED-3AB0B1758C8D_zps
 
Overall the bike is in pretty good shape, and just needs a little TLC.  Eventually I will swap the plastics to clean it up a bit, but the stockers will do for now.  Upon inspection, I discovered that the bike has already been uncorked....the throttle plate in the carb opens up 100% and it appears there are a few external emissions items that I noticed were blocked off (I'm assuming the GYTR kit has been installed).

Edited by badmeat, January 14, 2015 - 07:26 AM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 14, 2015 - 07:26 AM

#2

1/11/14 Update:

I pulled everything apart tonight to get the starter out. That was a pain....lots to remove to get to it. 
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I'll be putting new brushes in since they're a fraction of the cost of a new starter. They're definitely a bit worn, which is why it probably wasn't engaging.

Edited by badmeat, January 14, 2015 - 07:27 AM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 14, 2015 - 07:33 AM

#3

1/13/14 Update:

 

I purchased a new starter from J&N Electric in Sharonville, OH for $97...they happened to have it in stock.  I also purchased a brush kit from them for $1.50 to rebuild my stock starter (so that I have a spare on-hand).  One brush is bolt-in and the other is a solder-in.  Once the new starter was installed, I popped the fuse on the relay under the seat, replaced the fuse, and discovered the relay went bad (it tested fine with my multimeter when I got the bike).  So a relay is now on order from eBay for $11.

 

I also ordered a TRX450R front master cylinder/brake lever assembly, sub-harness for the brake switch, and the DC rectifier from Baja Designs to do the floating ground mod.  Does anyone have any recommendations on a 35w HID kit for the bike?  I would like to run one to get a little more light output on the street, as I've read the stock lighting is pretty poor.


Edited by badmeat, January 14, 2015 - 07:35 AM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 15, 2015 - 06:30 AM

#4

The hydraulic brake pressure switch arrived yesterday. It's now installed on the rear, and the brakes have been bled. Upon closer inspection, I've determined that I need to order brake pads.

Any recommendations for pads that'll work well for street use?  For a supermoto application, the EBC heavy duty sintered pads are what I'm leaning toward (part #FA185R front, #FA367R rear).


Edited by badmeat, January 15, 2015 - 07:54 AM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 15, 2015 - 08:36 PM

#5

My Baja Designs key switch showed up in the mail today.  I looked around online for a good DIY thread on installing it, but couldn't find anything very descriptive or for my specific application (I'm not running the Baja Designs lighting kit/harness). Sooooo here's a little DIY, how-to write up:
Here's the switch/kit:
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The only part you'll be using, unless you're running the Baja Designs lighting kit/harness is the switch with attached wires.  The extension will not be used unless you're running their whole kit.
 
First you'll want to remove the headlight, which is attached by two 8mm bolts (one on each side).  Then you'll want to locate the four-wire OE kill switch harness and unplug it, pictured below:
C1350CFD-5790-4439-94B1-5C65C4C821A2_zps
 
There are four wires on the female side of the kill switch harness.  They are black, brown, red w/ brown stripes, and brown w/ red stripes.  The two that need to be noted are the brown wire, and red w/ brown stripes.
 
Now you'll want to re-pin the Baja Designs key switch harness.  You'll need a precision screwdriver in order to depress the plastic 'hooks' inside the connector and release the wires.  The only two wires that will be re-used/pinned are the red wire and black wire.  The green wire and black/white wire can be taped off.  I believe these two wires are only used to illuminate the OE kill switch LED, which will be replaced by the key switch. Here's a couple pics of the harness after I re-inserted the black and red wires:
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Take note of the location of the wires in the connector
 
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The key switch connector should be re-pinned so that the red wire lines up with the red w/ brown striped wire on the bike harness.  The black wire should line up with the brown wire on the bike harness.  The Baja Designs connector will plug directly into the bike harness without modification.  You will likely want to remove the connector from the secured point on the bike so that it will have enough slack to reach the final mounting location of your key switch.  See picture below for reference:
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I chose to mount my key switch to the handlebar clamp on the right side:
 
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Now all that's left to do is turn the key to the 'on' position and make sure your speedo has power and the start button works.

Edited by badmeat, January 15, 2015 - 08:39 PM.


  • Mbiker_101

Posted January 15, 2015 - 09:36 PM

#6

Looking good so far, I did the same key, works great

  • DunmireD001

Posted January 15, 2015 - 10:36 PM

#7

1/13/14 Update:

I purchased a new starter from J&N Electric in Sharonville, OH for $97...they happened to have it in stock. I also purchased a brush kit from them for $1.50 to rebuild my stock starter (so that I have a spare on-hand). One brush is bolt-in and the other is a solder-in. Once the new starter was installed, I popped the fuse on the relay under the seat, replaced the fuse, and discovered the relay went bad (it tested fine with my multimeter when I got the bike). So a relay is now on order from eBay for $11.

I also ordered a TRX450R front master cylinder/brake lever assembly, sub-harness for the brake switch, and the DC rectifier from Baja Designs to do the floating ground mod. Does anyone have any recommendations on a 35w HID kit for the bike? I would like to run one to get a little more light output on the street, as I've read the stock lighting is pretty poor.



I currently am doing the same style build to an 01 wr426. Biggest difference is mine has no electric start/ or electrical dash components as yours.
But as for a headlight, I would recommend the trail tech X2 headlight. It's 35w lo beam, 70w high beam, but it is very bright and I even worry it may be too bright with my hi beams on.
Other than that I've seen guys build headlight setups out of Led's they bought off of amazon.
ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1421390163.843868.jpg

  • DunmireD001

Posted January 15, 2015 - 10:39 PM

#8

I also need to hook up an on/off key switch and run a digital display for my speedo.

  • badmeat

Posted January 16, 2015 - 06:30 AM

#9

But as for a headlight, I would recommend the trail tech X2 headlight. It's 35w lo beam, 70w high beam, but it is very bright and I even worry it may be too bright with my hi beams on.
Other than that I've seen guys build headlight setups out of Led's they bought off of amazon.

I would like to keep the OEM headlight housing, as I prefer the look of it over most aftermarket setups I've seen. The small amount of research I've done has shown pretty solid improvement in output when running an HID setup in the stock housing.

Although, the price of $100 isn't hateful for an aftermarket setup....

 

 

Any recommendations on a 35w H6M HID kit? (I won't convert to an H4 setup because it throws off the light pattern)


Edited by badmeat, January 16, 2015 - 06:37 AM.


  • zibbit u2

Posted January 16, 2015 - 09:33 AM

#10

Something I would HIGHLY recommend doing for a street SM setup.. is get rid of the factory front brake M/C, simply because you have to use those pressure operated switches.. and find a M/C that uses a micro switch instead. 

 

There's a few reasons behind stating this:

 

1. micro switches are more reliable and suited for street applications.  As soon as you move that lever, the light is on like right meow reguardless of pressure applied...  When I ran a pressure switch I had LOTS of issues where the brake light wouldn't come on under light pressure with a 320mm rotor kit. 

 

2. micro switches are a lot more readily available and easier to change, if the M/C you selected is from a production street bike.

 

Rear M/C.. meh, who cares if you're running a pressure switch.. that one is only there just to satisfy inspection requirements.



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  • DunmireD001

Posted January 16, 2015 - 11:25 AM

#11

Is it true the YFZ450 (4 wheeler) master cylinders have the micro switch built in???

  • badmeat

Posted January 16, 2015 - 02:06 PM

#12

Something I would HIGHLY recommend doing for a street SM setup.. is get rid of the factory front brake M/C, simply because you have to use those pressure operated switches.. and find a M/C that uses a micro switch instead.

There's a few reasons behind stating this:

1. micro switches are more reliable and suited for street applications. As soon as you move that lever, the light is on like right meow reguardless of pressure applied... When I ran a pressure switch I had LOTS of issues where the brake light wouldn't come on under light pressure with a 320mm rotor kit.

2. micro switches are a lot more readily available and easier to change, if the M/C you selected is from a production street bike.

Rear M/C.. meh, who cares if you're running a pressure switch.. that one is only there just to satisfy inspection requirements.

The Tusk pressure switch is on the rear master cylinder on my bike. I have a TRX450R front master cylinder/lever assembly and sub harness for it on order. It has a larger piston and built in pressure switch that should be quite easy to wire into my Tusk lighting kit harness since it has wires up front for the switch. It should be here tomorrow.

Edited by badmeat, January 16, 2015 - 02:08 PM.


  • bobpara

Posted January 19, 2015 - 08:51 AM

#13

Badmeat: I have an '06 and originally it came stock with an on/off button, instead of a key switch

The Baja Designs kit I bought came with a key switch

It was very odd, I could not bypass the on/off switch so I have to use the on/off button AND the key switch

Did you find a way to get rid of the on/off button?



  • badmeat

Posted January 19, 2015 - 12:02 PM

#14

Badmeat: I have an '06 and originally it came stock with an on/off button, instead of a key switch

The Baja Designs kit I bought came with a key switch

It was very odd, I could not bypass the on/off switch so I have to use the on/off button AND the key switch

Did you find a way to get rid of the on/off button?

I am not utilizing the stock on/off button...it was removed when I installed my key switch.  The key now acts as that, which is perfectly fine with me, since I don't personally see an advantage of utilizing both.

 

I'm not sure if your 2006 is wired the same as the 2007-2011 WR450's.  You could follow my above write up and see if it works on your bike.


Edited by badmeat, January 19, 2015 - 12:03 PM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 19, 2015 - 12:04 PM

#15

My TRX450 master cylinder and sub harness came in today.  I'll be installing those, wiring up the brake switch, and bleeding the brakes tonight.  
 
I've also decided that I'm going to build some Sumo wheels out of my stock hubs and piece together my conversion, rather than buy the Barebones kit from Motostrano.  I can do it cheaper, have the wheels laced locally, still utilize my stock speedo, and have better quality parts.  I'll have to drill out my stock hubs to accept the Sumo wheel spokes, but that's not a huge deal. The front hub will need drilled to 5/32", and the rear hub to 13/64", and the spokes torqued to 60 in/lb (per Warp9). Here's my parts list:
 
- Warp9 17" 36 hole front rim - $149
- Warp9 17" 36 hole rear rim - $165
- Warp9 stainless spoke & nipple set - $89 per wheel
- Labor for lacing wheels - $70 per wheel
- Powdercoat for stock hubs - $50
- Front steel 15t sprocket - $14
- Rear steel 42t sprocket - $45
- 520 D.I.D. 108 link chain - $80
- EBC 320mm rotor and relocation bracket - $195
- Acerbis sumo front fender - $25
- Bridgestone s20 tires - $230
- Tubes - $50
 
That list comes to less than the Barebones kit + Vapor speedo + shipping.  Granted, I won't have a second set of dirt wheels, but I don't plan on riding much dirt, if any.  Stock hubs/bearings/seals could be had new for around $370 if I felt the need to re-lace the stock wheels in the future for a dirt setup.

Edited by badmeat, January 19, 2015 - 03:57 PM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 20, 2015 - 10:59 AM

#16

Last night/this morning, I got the TRX450 master cylinder harness installed.  I de-pinned the connector that's suppose to go to the bike, and the wires plugged directly into my TUSK lighting kit, with zero issue.  I've been jokingly telling my fiancée that this project is going wayyyyy to smoothly, and that it's just a matter of time until I run into a huge snag (since it hasn't happened yet).  I bled the front brake and all is well.

 

This morning I decided to remove the front wheel, get the wheel bearings out, and cut the hub from the rim.  That took me a whopping 30 minutes, with the longest part being the bearing removal.  Once I hit the hub with a little heat from the torch, they came right out.  My new angle grinder worked perfectly to cut the spokes and free the hub:

 

548270D7-E395-4809-BAA8-549F7ABDE5F3_zps

 

I ordered Warp9 rims, spokes, and nipples yesterday.  They should be here late this week or early next.  While I was at it, I also picked up Warp9's brake pedal and shift lever, since mine are original and a little banged up.  I also have a DDM Tuning 35w 4500k HID kit on the way as well.  I have ran them on my bikes and cars in the past with great luck.

 

Next up will be removing the rear hub, getting the hubs powdercoated (likely gold), and drilling the spoke holes to the correct diameter for sumo spokes, after they're coated.


Edited by badmeat, January 20, 2015 - 12:07 PM.


  • badmeat

Posted January 22, 2015 - 11:43 AM

#17

I installed my starter solenoid yesterday, as well as the Baja Designs DC rectifier and floating ground mod.

The rear hub was cut out as well and both been dropped off for powdercoating. New wheel bearings should show up today, and the rims/spokes on Monday.



Everything is coming together nicely.

  • badmeat

Posted January 26, 2015 - 03:51 PM

#18

The hubs have been coated and are ready to be picked up.  The powder guy just sent me this pic of them:
 
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The rims/spokes/nipples will be delivered tomorrow, as well as some new gear I purchased:
 
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  • badmeat

Posted January 28, 2015 - 03:26 PM

#19

Got some more goodies in the mail today!!!
 
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(yes, that's a bucket/stand)
 
 
The best part.....I don't have to drill out the hubs to fit the sumo spokes.  They slide right in without issue!!!
 
I also just ordered a SECOND set of wheel bearings, as I either have a ghost that loves to steal motorcycle parts, or my 2 year old daughter is playing a game of hide daddy's things.  They should be here Monday, then I'm going to throw them in the freezer, put the hubs in the oven at 200* for 10-15 minutes, and assemble them very quickly (since I don't have a press).  I just hope my 'hot potato' skills are up to par.
 
I'll be dropping the wheels off Wednesday next week to be laced up.


  • badmeat

Posted February 08, 2015 - 10:00 AM

#20

Update
 
I've been in  a holding pattern for the last week or so.  I dropped off my wheels to be laced up on Wednesday.  I decided to pick up some extra gear on Wednesday from a local shop (AFJ Race Shop) that they happened to have in stock for a good deal.  I scooped up an Icon Stryker vest, Alpinestars GP Plus gloves, Nitek P1 helmet, and a Motorsport Products lift-stand.  
 
The following has also arrived:
-Bridgestone s20 Evo tires & tubes
-EBC 320mm front rotor & caliper bracket
-DID X-ring 520 chain
-15t & 42t sprockets
-Acerbis sumo fender
-DDM Tuning 4500k H6M HID kit
 
I'll be wiring up the HID kit tonight.  The wheels should be done Wednesday, so I'm hoping to complete the bike this week and take it to the courthouse for the out of state inspection soon after.





 
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