Home made Dual Sport Retrofit



10 replies to this topic
  • Gashira

Posted February 08, 2004 - 06:16 AM

#1

I have signal lights, horn, licence plate bracket/light, brake light switch {rear} & horn/signal switch.
What concerns need to be addressed before i hook this stuff up ??? Do i have to tie in anywhere on the harness, or can i do something straight off the battery ???
What will i do for a speedo ???
04 WR 450 :)

  • gfergtr74

Posted February 08, 2004 - 06:30 AM

#2

I put one together for my WR. I found a small gel battery that runs the blinkers and horn. Found a dualsport switch assembly that had all the buttons and switches needed. I use a TrailTech computer for the riding info. Hope that helps some.

  • 5spoke

Posted February 08, 2004 - 06:40 AM

#3

Check the circuit diagram in the owners manual. You need to be able to understand why they have wired the bike like it is and you will know where to splice into it or make new connections.

There are several ways to wire the bike, all will work. Some will be better than others. You can eliminate additional wires if you are careful or you could have a whole bunch and it will still work. Remember to protect the circuits on the bike. Always think of the worst case senario and wire the bike to be the safest for that.

There are so many ways to do this. I think the easiest is for you to tell us how you would wire the various components into the circuit. :)

  • Gashira

Posted February 08, 2004 - 07:04 AM

#4

I'm like most people....i guess. I don't know a whole lot about the electrical, but i can invision coming right off the battery. Afterall, none of the stuff like signals, horn, or brake lights will be on all the time anyway :D
Maybe, i'll have to consider tying it in to the harness :)

  • 5spoke

Posted February 08, 2004 - 08:48 AM

#5

I would keep the head light on the AC side of the circuit. 1)It can't drain your battery and 2)when your bat is fully charged and not drawing much current, you could be getting a higher voltage on the headlight and it will be a lot brighter.

What ever you can keep on the AC side will be the most efficeint use of power and it also eliminates the chance of short circuiting the batt or running the bat. dead. There is nothing wrong with running stuff off your batt. (one advantage is that your headlight won't dim until you bat runs low), as long as you don't draw to much current off it that it can't be recharged. You also want to make sure there is no extra draw off the battery when you are starting the engine (ie.foot on the brake while starting, that's why I would put the brake on the AC side). You must have sw's to turn off all the lights if they run off the batt. Most horns need DC. :)

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  • Gashira

Posted February 08, 2004 - 12:17 PM

#6

I'm keeping the headlight stock. I figure the signal lights, horn & rear brake light-{switch} have their own switch via the handle bar mounted horn & signal device. Nothing should be on unless the switch is on. The only concern would be accidentally leaving a signal on.
This is why i thought a takeoff from the battery would be simple & safe. Also very little energy from the battery would be required to operate any of these functions for a short time.
I would doubt very much that any of these operations would effect idle or headlight brightness ???
Am i missing anything ??? :)

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted February 08, 2004 - 02:27 PM

#7

Regular motorcycle horns and turn signal flashers will only work on DC, so you will have to take DC power off the battery to run those items. You are lucky with the WR450 that you already ahve a rectified source of power for DC requirements. I had to wire in a rectifier/regulator on my '99 to do that.

I have two speedometers. One is my GPS and I also use a Sigma Sport bicycle computer. I had to make the wire connections for the Sigma more rugged but otherwise the installation is easy and it is very accurate and durable. It was one of the few low cost bicycle computers (less than US$20) that will read up to 99 mph so that's why I got it.

  • 5spoke

Posted February 08, 2004 - 02:52 PM

#8

I'm keeping the headlight stock. I figure the signal lights, horn & rear brake light-{switch} have their own switch via the handle bar mounted horn & signal device. Nothing should be on unless the switch is on. The only concern would be accidentally leaving a signal on.
This is why i thought a takeoff from the battery would be simple & safe. Also very little energy from the battery would be required to operate any of these functions for a short time.
I would doubt very much that any of these operations would effect idle or headlight brightness ???
Am i missing anything ??? :)


Sounds like that will work great. Like I said there are many ways to wire the system. The AC and DC use the same ground so it shouldn't effect anything if you are combining the circuits ground. I would run extra ground wires though, so you don't overload an existing groung wire. Running those few things off the bat will be fine. The rec/reg is rated at 12A so you have plenty of juice. It's alot cheaper doing it this way than buying a kit. Btw a cheap flasher from a auto store will work off AC or DC (I tried it). The horn likes DC to operate correctly, but it will still make a noise running off AC...not as loud and high pitch (a little squeeky, but will work to get your bike plated). :D

  • Gashira

Posted February 08, 2004 - 03:12 PM

#9

Thanks 5 Spoke;
I'm pretty sure straight off the battery will work out. That should be DC :D So the horn should work out.
I think i'll try a pedal bike speedo or get the XT or DT that others mentioned here.
Whatever i do has do be done perfectly. I'll be taking the bike out of the crate in a couple of weeks. :D :D :) :D :D

  • Chas_M

Posted February 22, 2004 - 02:16 PM

#10

I recently dual sported my KTM 525 EXC. The KTM comes with dual filament headlight and taillights, and the electrical system uses AC to power the lights and DC to charge the battery. I assume that the WRs are similar. I had previously hooked up grip heaters to the headlight lead (AC) and a cooling fan to DC. I then hooked up the turn signals (using a cheap flasher from an auto store) and the brake light switch (from Four Strokes Only) to DC. This setup works great, however since the stock KTM charging output is minimal, I decided to also try hooking up the signals and brake light to AC to avoid excess load on the battery. Much to my surprise everything worked, although not as well as with DC. For instance, when everything is on, i.e. headlight, taillight, brakelight, grip heaters, fan, the turn signals don't work at low idle rpm. The signals do work if you turn off either the grip heaters or the headlight, or if the engine rpm is increased a little bit. To me, the main advantage of utilizing AC is to hopefully avoid running the battery down and to reduce the possibilty of shorting out the battery.

  • gomopar440

Posted February 23, 2004 - 08:30 AM

#11

FWIW, I'd suggest switching all the turn and tail/stop lights to LED types to reduce the draw on the elec system. I have had the slow/no blink problem and this helped. But the real fix is to switch the flasher to a digital one. I've had good luck with the Tridon EL-12 flasher (not as cheap @ $8-10)and used it on many projects. You can find them at almost any auto parts store. It won't flash fast like some do to let you know if you have a blown bulb (not a problem with LEDs anyway), and it won't flash slow if you don't have enough voltage draw. It doesn't care how many/few bulbs you have, what types of bulbs or how little juice is going through it. If it "sees" any current, it flashes at normal speed. :)

I still have an issue with the head light output on my Trick D/S kitted WR450 though. The elec system sounds very similar to yours (AC&DC) and I have had similar problems. The LEDs and EL-12 fixed most of the problems. With the headlight on the light gets dim after running for a few minutes and voltage output on the GPS power port gets low enough to keep trying to switch to GPS internal battery power. Dale at Trick suggested running the AC output directly through the handlebar switch for the headlight only. I'll be trying that when I get some spare time. I ride year round here in Puerto Rico so there is no maintenance season to get these kinda things done :D




 
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