The '14 has been out a while now. What sag and fork height Have you settled on?


39 replies to this topic
  • GHILL28

Posted January 15, 2015 - 08:41 PM

#21

My RM250 is the best cornering bike I've ridden, and the handling gets WAY messed with the axle far forward.  With the axle far back the front end carves like you wouldn't believe.  And it has a substantially longer swingarm than the YZ/YZF does to begin with.



  • Goforaride

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:06 PM

#22

Exact same thing happened to me. Mine is a 14 and I went up to 50 t rear. I really liked how it got in the power sooner but it really screwed up my handling and had mine all out of wack. I took it right back off. I think that is one reason why a lot of people think the 15 handles better and has a more planted front end feel. The axle being back puts more weight on front

but the '14 and '15 are specd with the same wheelbase a , ,

  • Monk

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:13 PM

#23

but the '14 and '15 are specd with the same wheelbase a , ,


Different sprocket sizes though...

  • Goforaride

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:19 PM

#24

Different sprocket sizes though...

so '15 has what 48? So then what is the specified wheelbase? The center of the adjusment range?

  • Monk

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:32 PM

#25

so '15 has what 48? So then what is the specified wheelbase? The center of the adjusment range?


No idea for wheel base measurement. Yes 15 has a 48 vs 49 on 2014 model...

Edited by Monk, January 16, 2015 - 04:34 PM.


  • Goforaride

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:41 PM

#26

No idea for wheel base measurement. Yes 15 has a 48 vs 49 on 2014 model...

and they for sure use the same stock chain length? The could remove a link and have the same wheelbase

  • Phil Hannah

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:44 PM

#27

I will keep that in mind when it comes time for a new chain. I'm not gonna go buy a longer chain just to try it Tho. Shouldn't a longer wheelbase actually slow the steering?

If you picture the motor as the center of the bike when you move the rear wheel back the motor is now more front wheel biased.

  • Goforaride

Posted January 16, 2015 - 05:45 PM

#28

If you picture the motor as the center of the bike when you move the rear wheel back the motor is now more front wheel biased.

Ok that makes since. Moving the rear wheel back makes the front stick better but wont it also make it want to turn wider? Toyota vs semi truck? My issue is that im having trouble with running wide on flat tight corners in the woods. I dont so much have an issue with the traction the bike just want to drift wide. Could be a rebound issue but i want the sag and fork height right before i dial her in

Edited by Goforaride, January 16, 2015 - 05:53 PM.


  • zeuszuki

Posted January 17, 2015 - 11:32 AM

#29

Ok that makes since. Moving the rear wheel back makes the front stick better but wont it also make it want to turn wider? Toyota vs semi truck? My issue is that im having trouble with running wide on flat tight corners in the woods. I dont so much have an issue with the traction the bike just want to drift wide. Could be a rebound issue but i want the sag and fork height right before i dial her in

Put your forks flush with the triple clamps and take two clicks of compression off, thank me later.



  • Monk

Posted January 17, 2015 - 11:50 AM

#30

Put your forks flush with the triple clamps and take two clicks of compression off, thank me later.


That's a small part of a large equation. What about rear sag? Bar position?

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  • Goforaride

Posted January 17, 2015 - 02:16 PM

#31

That's a small part of a large equation. What about rear sag? Bar position?

That's what I was thinking. So about pulling the rear wheel back. What I know is that a longer wheelbase will give a more stable feeling Over obstacles and on straits. It will also add leverage making the rear suspension feel softer or more plush. It will require re setting the sag. Also changing The fork height changes the wheelbase. It's minimal but a change none the less. For us mere mortals, I don't think it is the actual wheel base that messes us up. I did some Experimenting this morning and moving the rear wheel From all the way forward to all the way back changed the sag by 13mm. Also every 3mm of fork height changed the sag about 1mm. My point is that when you experienced the handling issues after re gearing, it May have been due to the change in sag rather than wheelbase. Moving the rear wheel forward changes the sag rather significantly.

  • Phil Hannah

Posted January 17, 2015 - 05:27 PM

#32

That's what I was thinking. So about pulling the rear wheel back. What I know is that a longer wheelbase will give a more stable feeling Over obstacles and on straits. It will also add leverage making the rear suspension feel softer or more plush. It will require re setting the sag. Also changing The fork height changes the wheelbase. It's minimal but a change none the less. For us mere mortals, I don't think it is the actual wheel base that messes us up. I did some Experimenting this morning and moving the rear wheel From all the way forward to all the way back changed the sag by 13mm. Also every 3mm of fork height changed the sag about 1mm. My point is that when you experienced the handling issues after re gearing, it May have been due to the change in sag rather than wheelbase. Moving the rear wheel forward changes the sag rather significantly.

One of the big changes on the 97 KX 250 was a longer swingarm. Made a decent bike much better including turning. If a bike is front wheel light moving the wheel back puts more weight on front and visa versa. Lot of the Honda guys run the rear wheel towards the front. Sag is always part of the equation. Stuff can make you crazy but even the pros are chasing it!

  • Goforaride

Posted January 17, 2015 - 06:11 PM

#33

Stuff can make you crazy but even the pros are chasing it!

isn't that the truth! I'm just going with 105mm and 4mm up on the forks. Like Mxa or not, they have more time and skill for testing than I do. When factory teams start recruiting nobodies, I will worry about it.

  • Phil Hannah

Posted January 17, 2015 - 06:46 PM

#34

isn't that the truth! I'm just going with 105mm and 4mm up on the forks. Like Mxa or not, they have more time and skill for testing than I do. When factory teams start recruiting nobodies, I will worry about it.
.

Their setup was with a link just so you now. Just picked one up but haven't tried it yet

  • Goforaride

Posted January 17, 2015 - 07:11 PM

#35

Their setup was with a link just so you now. Just picked one up but haven't tried it yet

Actually this is Quoted directly from the Mxa article. "We opted to run 105mm of sag to bring the rear of the chassis down, but this isn’t the optimum fix, because you are compromising the rear suspension to band-aid the chassis. Eventually, we settled on a 1.5mm-longer shock linkage and a better front tire for our terrain.

  • Phil Hannah

Posted January 18, 2015 - 07:19 AM

#36

Actually this is Quoted directly from the Mxa article. "We opted to run 105mm of sag to bring the rear of the chassis down, but this isn’t the optimum fix, because you are compromising the rear suspension to band-aid the chassis. Eventually, we settled on a 1.5mm-longer shock linkage and a better front tire for our terrain.

Believe the 4mm fork tube height goes hand in hand with link. Only have 7hrs on mine but felt it worked best with stock fork tube height without link but just my opinion.

  • zeuszuki

Posted January 19, 2015 - 12:40 AM

#37

That's a small part of a large equation. What about rear sag? Bar position?

So you have tried it and did not like the setting then?

"small part of the equation" yes, but it IS part of the equation...



  • Gaz929

Posted January 22, 2015 - 09:39 AM

#38

About 5'11"

Lowered pegs are a winner as well.


How do you lower the pegs?

  • JS264

Posted January 22, 2015 - 09:53 AM

#39

How do you lower the pegs?


Lower aftermarket pegs. I've got a GYTR Ti set that are 10mm lower...

  • rk8950

Posted January 22, 2015 - 11:33 AM

#40

Lower aftermarket pegs. I've got a GYTR Ti set that are 10mm lower...

What is part number on them?







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