The '14 has been out a while now. What sag and fork height Have you settled on?


39 replies to this topic
  • Goforaride

Posted January 12, 2015 - 07:01 PM

#1

Well it has been a year and a half since the new design came out. In the beginning people were Running everything from 100-116 mm of sag and from flush up to 10mm up on the forks. I'm just curious what everyone has settled on for different types of riding. Post your numbers and what type of riding you mostly do. Also mention if you have changed the linkage or sub frame height.

I have been running 110mm sag with forks 5mm up and I mostly ride woods. Still trying to find my happy spot tho.

  • YamaLink

Posted January 14, 2015 - 06:19 AM

#2

Completely stock most local '14 YZ450 riders are at 105mm race sag and forks stock.

I run a different linkage, sag is anywhere from 96 to 100mm depending on track or terrain, and forks are up about 2mm from factory.

About 95% of my riding is off-road, race A class if that matters, weigh 165 before gear.

 

It truly is personal preference after you get rear race sag dialed in.

Well it has been a year and a half since the new design came out. In the beginning people were Running everything from 100-116 mm of sag and from flush up to 10mm up on the forks. I'm just curious what everyone has settled on for different types of riding. Post your numbers and what type of riding you mostly do. Also mention if you have changed the linkage or sub frame height.

I have been running 110mm sag with forks 5mm up and I mostly ride woods. Still trying to find my happy spot tho.

 



  • JS264

Posted January 14, 2015 - 12:28 PM

#3

MX

Forks 8mm up

Subframe lowered 25mm measured vertically above rear axle

102mm sag



  • rk8950

Posted January 14, 2015 - 01:55 PM

#4

MX

Forks 8mm up

Subframe lowered 25mm measured vertically above rear axle

102mm sag

How tall are you? I thought about getting some lowered pegs and maybe dropping my subframe a little



  • JS264

Posted January 14, 2015 - 02:10 PM

#5

How tall are you? I thought about getting some lowered pegs and maybe dropping my subframe a little

 

About 5'11"

 

Lowered pegs are a winner as well.



  • rk8950

Posted January 14, 2015 - 02:21 PM

#6

Im 6'  I been running my bars in the forward hole(mounts spun around backwards) but been thinking about lowering my pegs 10mm and back 5-10mm and putting bar position back to stock(rear hole mounts forward). Do  you use the forward or rear position on bars?



  • JS264

Posted January 14, 2015 - 08:22 PM

#7

Forward hole w/mounts turned towards the back



  • GHILL28

Posted January 14, 2015 - 09:17 PM

#8

6', forward most mount (bar cradles turned forward too).  Wouldn't have it any other way.  Going for lower pegs too.



  • Goforaride

Posted January 15, 2015 - 05:53 AM

#9

MX
Forks 8mm up
Subframe lowered 25mm measured vertically above rear axle
102mm sag

obviously the lowered sub frame comes into play only when sitting. 8mm up on the forks? Do you only ride super tight stuff? Seems like you would get crazy oversteer and a twitchy front end

  • rk8950

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:59 AM

#10

6', forward most mount (bar cradles turned forward too).  Wouldn't have it any other way.  Going for lower pegs too.

Let me know what you come up with how they move the pegs. I gonna see how you like them, I might get some also. When you gonna be trying them out?



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  • JS264

Posted January 15, 2015 - 09:53 AM

#11

obviously the lowered sub frame comes into play only when sitting. 8mm up on the forks? Do you only ride super tight stuff? Seems like you would get crazy oversteer and a twitchy front end

 

 

I ride 4th/5th gear WFO rough soft tracks with it like that.  Forks are valved stiffer than stock and it never shakes or misbehaves as long as rebound is set fast enough.   For pure sand I'll put the forks down to 2mm and run sag around 106mm.



  • Goforaride

Posted January 15, 2015 - 06:47 PM

#12

I ride 4th/5th gear WFO rough soft tracks with it like that. Forks are valved stiffer than stock and it never shakes or misbehaves as long as rebound is set fast enough. For pure sand I'll put the forks down to 2mm and run sag around 106mm.

maybe i am over thinking this but 25mm is an inch. Im looking at my bike and i cant see how the sub can be lowered that much and the exaust still bolt to it without modification. Also how would the seat, tank and shrouds stay lined up?

  • Monk

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:06 PM

#13

I'm running my forks 3mm up in the triple clamps, 112mm of sag in the rear... Renthal Twinwall 996s with the clamps in the forward position rotated back...

  • Goforaride

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:31 PM

#14

I'm running my forks 3mm up in the triple clamps, 112mm of sag in the rear... Renthal Twinwall 996s with the clamps in the forward position rotated back...

I have been running 5mm up and 110 sag. Its just ok on sand but in the woods it's not so good. I'm always exiting wide and I can't hold a rut worth a darn. The one plus is that the suspension feels so much plusher. I'm trying to find the balance between plushness and cornering. I just Re adjusted to the Mxa settings of 105 sag and 4 mm up front. We will see how that works but I'm suspecting the plush feeling will be gone.

  • Monk

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:32 PM

#15

I have been running 5mm up and 110 sag. Its just ok on sand but in the woods it's not so good. I'm always exiting wide and I can't hold a rut worth a darn. The one plus is that the suspension feels so much plusher. I'm trying to find the balance between plushness and cornering. I just Re adjusted to the Mxa settings of 105 sag and 4 mm up front. We will see how that works but I'm suspecting the plush feeling will be gone.

Where is your rear axel?

I found the bike sensitive to axel length. When I switched from 48s to a 49t my setting got all screwed up...

Edited by Monk, January 15, 2015 - 07:34 PM.


  • Goforaride

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:56 PM

#16

Where is your rear axel?

I found the bike sensitive to axel length. When I switched from 48s to a 49t my setting got all screwed up...

going from the rear of the axle block i am between the 6th and 7th mark. The 6th is the center mark. So your sayin the the shorter wheel base messed you up?

Edited by Goforaride, January 15, 2015 - 07:59 PM.


  • Monk

Posted January 15, 2015 - 07:58 PM

#17

going from the rear of the axle block i am between the 6th and 7th mark. The 6th is the center mark.


Just my opinion, but try sliding the axle all the way back and go for a ride, you might find something that wasn't there...

  • Goforaride

Posted January 15, 2015 - 08:05 PM

#18

Just my opinion, but try sliding the axle all the way back and go for a ride, you might find something that wasn't there...

I will keep that in mind when it comes time for a new chain. I'm not gonna go buy a longer chain just to try it Tho. Shouldn't a longer wheelbase actually slow the steering?

  • JS264

Posted January 15, 2015 - 08:09 PM

#19

maybe i am over thinking this but 25mm is an inch. Im looking at my bike and i cant see how the sub can be lowered that much and the exaust still bolt to it without modification. Also how would the seat, tank and shrouds stay lined up?

 

The factory muffler rear bracket is slotted and dropping the subframe requires no other modifications.  Just loosen the head pipe clamps and everything works out like it was made to be that way.



  • rk8950

Posted January 15, 2015 - 08:19 PM

#20

Where is your rear axel?

I found the bike sensitive to axel length. When I switched from 48s to a 49t my setting got all screwed up...

Exact same thing happened to me. Mine is a 14 and I went up to 50 t rear. I really liked how it got in the power sooner but it really screwed up my handling and had mine all out of wack. I took it right back off. I think that is one reason why a lot of people think the 15 handles better and has a more planted front end feel. The axle being back puts more weight on front







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