2014 flywheel weight


16 replies to this topic
  • rojapar

Posted January 12, 2015 - 05:13 PM

#1

are these just a direct bolt on to anyone who has put a gytr flywheel weight on a 2014-2015?

 

thanks



  • grayracer513

Posted January 13, 2015 - 07:23 AM

#2

The GYT-R flywheels are complete, welded, ready to use assemblies that replace the existing flywheel. 



  • rojapar

Posted January 13, 2015 - 04:49 PM

#3

Oh. I've looked into it a little more and the gytr is complete and 4.4 ounces. Steahly has a 7 and 9 ounce weight. I guess you remove the flywheel and mail it to them and theyť epoxy glue on a weight. Is that safe? Id be a little nervous with an epoxied on weight.

Edited by rojapar, January 13, 2015 - 04:51 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted January 13, 2015 - 07:16 PM

#4

So would I.  Then again, the airframe of the jet liner you flew in last was largely assembled with glue.

 

The thing to bear in mind when comparing the two is that the GYT-R weight adds 4.4 ounces, but 100% of that weight is in a ring on the outside edge of the flywheel.  The Steahly weight has a center section that glues onto the back side of the flywheel so that it is both strong enough to support the weight and to have an adequate amount of contact surface for the adhesive.  Part of the additional weight the Steahly offers is in that center section, and in that position, it is exponentially less effective than the same amount of weight concentrated at the edge would be.  In the end, the 7 ounce Steahly weight is probably going to add more inertia mass than is added on the GYT-R, but it's not going to be a linear, 4.4 to 7 comparison.



  • rojapar

Posted January 15, 2015 - 01:02 PM

#5

is there that much to removing and installing one?  i read that you need a flywheel puller, which is pretty cheap, but is this something a newb mechanic can pull off in the garage?



  • grayracer513

Posted January 15, 2015 - 01:50 PM

#6

Using a little common sense, and assuming reasonable mechanical sense, yes.



  • 1stSSPZ

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:46 AM

#7

Put the GYTR 4.4 on my 13, easy bolt on and made a tremendous difference.



  • rojapar

Posted January 16, 2015 - 02:15 PM

#8

Put the GYTR 4.4 on my 13, easy bolt on and made a tremendous difference.

im sure the 2013 would be about the same, but would you give a quick run down of the install...

 

here is how i am understanding it..

1. remove side cover

2. hold flats on flywheel with wrench and take another wrench and remove nut.  (counter clockwise i assume)

3. screw on flywheel puller

4. hold flywheel puller with one wrench and screw flywheel puller center bolt clockwise with another wrench.

5. flywheel pops off.

6. put new flywheel on shaft.

7. hold flats of flywheel with wrench and tighten flywheel nut with another wrench to specified torque

8. install side cover

9. done

 

does that seem about right for removal/install?

 

also, is there a "key" that keeps the flywheel indexed?


im on the fence about the gytr or steahly.  wish i knew which one added the most effective weight.



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  • rojapar

Posted January 16, 2015 - 02:28 PM

#9

here is a stock flywheel

stockfw_zps7e5e2a37.jpg

 

here is the welded 4.4 gytr

gytr44_zps045e3fc8.jpg

 

here is the glued together steahly 9

steahly9_zps90ec1bb2.jpg

 

the gytr and steahly look almost identical as to how they add the weight.



  • 1stSSPZ

Posted January 16, 2015 - 03:15 PM

#10

im sure the 2013 would be about the same, but would you give a quick run down of the install...

 

here is how i am understanding it..

1. remove side cover

2. hold flats on flywheel with wrench and take another wrench and remove nut.  (counter clockwise i assume)

3. screw on flywheel puller

4. hold flywheel puller with one wrench and screw flywheel puller center bolt clockwise with another wrench.

5. flywheel pops off.

6. put new flywheel on shaft.

7. hold flats of flywheel with wrench and tighten flywheel nut with another wrench to specified torque

8. install side cover

9. done

 

does that seem about right for removal/install?

 

also, is there a "key" that keeps the flywheel indexed?


im on the fence about the gytr or steahly.  wish i knew which one added the most effective weight.

That is the correct procedure. Mine was on tight enough that I had to use a little heat (propane torch) and then the factory one popped right off.



  • grayracer513

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:18 PM

#11

That is the correct procedure. Mine was on tight enough that I had to use a little heat (propane torch) and then the factory one popped right off.

 

Some flywheel pullers come with a thread protecting cap that screws on the end of the crank.  Be sure you leave a gap between this cap and the flywheel so it has room to pop loose from the taper.  (see pic)

 

If you get quite a bit of pressure on the screw and the flywheel hasn't popped free yet, rather than use heat, just whack the end of the puller screw sharply with a steel hammer.  The shock will generally cause it to release.

 

Yes there is a key.  Be sure you get it engaged and indexed right.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0538.JPG


  • Dexter42

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:43 PM

#12

Excuse my ignorance but is the weight of the fly wheel weight a direct relation to the oz it's called out?
So the gytr 4.4oz weighs 4.4oz over stock and the 7 and 9 oz rings are that 7 and 9oz in weight of aded material??

Also does anyone know what kind of material flywheels are made out of? 17-4 SS??

  • rojapar

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:50 PM

#13

Some flywheel pullers come with a thread protecting cap that screws on the end of the crank.  Be sure you leave a gap between this cap and the flywheel so it has room to pop loose from the taper.  (see pic)

 

If you get quite a bit of pressure on the screw and the flywheel hasn't popped free yet, rather than use heat, just whack the end of the puller screw sharply with a steel hammer.  The shock will generally cause it to release.

 

Yes there is a key.  Be sure you get it engaged and indexed right.

do you know which brands come with the thread protector cap?  that seems like a good idea as i dont want to booger up the end of the crank.

 

also, when and how is the key removed...as in, do you take the flywheel nut off then take the key out then the puller, or does it pull off first then the key falls out...and when does the key go in when reassembling everything?

 

thanks so much for the help and advise.



  • rojapar

Posted January 16, 2015 - 04:54 PM

#14

Excuse my ignorance but is the weight of the fly wheel weight a direct relation to the oz it's called out?
So the gytr 4.4oz weighs 4.4oz over stock and the 7 and 9 oz rings are that 7 and 9oz in weight of aded material??

Also does anyone know what kind of material flywheels are made out of? 17-4 SS??

i believe the ring you see on the outside is the weight.  so the gytr uses a welded on 4.4 oz ring and the steahly uses a glued on 7 or 9 oz ring. 

 

the steahly looks like it uses set screws along with glue from the pics.  it seems steahly would be the way to go if you want tractor power, but like i said, the glued on weight bothers me a little. id hate for it to come loose or possibly be out of balance since the glue may be thicker in some areas.  im going to call them monday and get some more info.



  • Dexter42

Posted January 16, 2015 - 06:48 PM

#15

Anyone know what material they're made out off?

  • rojapar

Posted January 17, 2015 - 10:27 AM

#16

Anyone know what material they're made out off?

ive seen rusty ones, so id assume they are made of carbon steel.  why do you want to know?



  • Dexter42

Posted January 19, 2015 - 06:35 AM

#17

ive seen rusty ones, so id assume they are made of carbon steel. why do you want to know?

Would like to try an make a weld able one for my bike out of the same material. I think it's part of the SS family just don't know what series.





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