Can you recommend a chain and sprocket?

13 replies to this topic
  • yama/YZFan

Posted February 04, 2002 - 05:23 AM


It is time that I need to buy a new set and I am not sure which brand/model. I have always run an O-Ring chain, but I like to smooth action I get from a standard chain. Any recomendations? I have an 01 426 and I plan to stick to the stock number of teeth (13/49) because I don't have any complaints as of yet. Thanks in advance.

  • Odie

Posted February 04, 2002 - 07:21 AM


I've always used DID chains with Talon sprockets. The gold Talon sprockets with a gold chain look BAD ASS with a set of black rims.


  • BK14MX

Posted February 04, 2002 - 09:43 AM


The only suggestion I can make since you use o'ring chains, is to use steel sprockets. Their not as flashy as anodized aluminium, but they will last much, much longer.

  • skthom2320

Posted February 04, 2002 - 09:47 AM


No question - DID X-ring chain. Easy to put on and not too much drag.

Sprocket? I currently have a $14.99 Primary Drive steel sprocket from Rocky Mountain! It weighs about 25 lbs (LOL) but was inexpensive and is holding up well. I have a Sunstar OEM sprocket waiting in the wings if the el-cheapo steel sprocket dies. But so far so good.


Steve T

[ February 04, 2002: Message edited by: skthom2320 ]

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted February 04, 2002 - 12:33 PM


If youre rich go with a Sidewinder setup. But you literally have to be rich. I mean stupid rich, like - hey mister, let me light your BBQ with this thousand dollar bill, cuz these things are all over my house and its a mess - rich. Other than that DID or a Regina chain and go with hardest material available for the rear sprocket, if weight isnt your issue.

  • krazyq

Posted February 04, 2002 - 03:29 PM


Renthal front and rear and X ring chain ttl $146.00 for all .
have them on since sept 2001 still good.
about 3 months of riding here in nyc.

  • MikeOK

Posted February 04, 2002 - 03:55 PM


I've always had Renthal works chains and ultralight Renthal sprockets, but recently I put on a DID xring and a Moose rear sprocket. I'm impressed with both, I used to tighten my works Renthal after every race, I haven't had to tighten this DID one time yet. I bet I can get 3 times the use out of it, maybe more.

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  • Odie

Posted February 05, 2002 - 04:03 AM



You got my attention with that last post. I see you're from NYC - I'm about 35 minutes north of you. Just curious - where have you been riding? Long Island?? Brooklyn?? Is there any spots left down there? When I was a kid I lived in Yonkers and the hot spot for many years was the Whitestone Bridge - not any more.


  • bbeakley

Posted February 05, 2002 - 11:10 AM


I just ordered a DID x-ring online and I got the 114 link (hope that's enough). If it's a little long (stock is 113 according to the manual), how do you shorten it by a link or two? I bought a cheesy motion pro chain tool to try and shorten the stock chain, but the push pin is made of pot metal and broke. Piece of crap. Afterwards I noticed the pins on the stock chain are mushroomed on both ends so they wouldn't just push out anyway. Sigh. So, how do I get my new chain to the correct length?

  • Hayseed

Posted February 05, 2002 - 11:30 AM


Hmmm. Maybe I have a different model, but I’ve given my Motion Pro chain breaker hell and it held up okay. You can purchase replacement pins for a buck or two. If you don’t have everything lined up correctly but crank on the thing anyway the pin will break, you should have the tool set snug against the chain before you attempt to push out a pin.

But enough of all that. Get a grinder and flatten two of those mushroomed pin ends you mention and voilá, it will come right apart.

Be careful, once you eliminate a link it is not advisable to put it back together at that point, you’re better off using two master links, so make sure you are cutting in the right place.

I like to mock everything up where I want it and then eliminate a link.

Hope this helps.

  • skthom2320

Posted February 05, 2002 - 12:39 PM


I have a DID x-ring and use the Motion Pro mini-chain breaker. No problem. 114 link chain is correct if you are running stock or close to stock gearing.

Tip for putting on the master link. Get a c-clamp and a couple of small nuts that will just fit over the pins. Put the master link plate on, then put the nuts over the pins and clamp down. I left mine that way for a couple of minutes. Then take the clamp off and put the master link clip on in your usual manner (for me that is a screwdriver and a few curse words).


Steve T

[ February 05, 2002: Message edited by: skthom2320 ]

  • bbeakley

Posted February 06, 2002 - 07:44 AM


Thanks for the tips. Glad I ordered the right one (I run stock gearing).

As for the motion pro tool, I did torque it pretty good trying to get the pin out of the old chain. I should have noticed the mushroomed pin and stopped. It was lined up correctly, but I had a big bowl of Wheaties that morning. Brian 1, chain tool 0. Nothing a few more bucks in motion pros pockets can't fix.

  • sirthumpalot

Posted February 06, 2002 - 08:20 AM


I've never had luck with any chain breaker without first grinding down the pins. If you grind them down then they should just about fall right out when you push them with the chain breaker tool. Just be careful not to grind the adjacent links. :)

  • krazyq

Posted February 08, 2002 - 11:07 AM


Odie I'm in staten island I ride in chatsworth nj nice tracks
There isn't anywere else out here.

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