nuetral switch removal PROBLEMS

9 replies to this topic
  • MasiveMoe

Posted February 05, 2004 - 06:29 PM


So, I get my new Zip-Ty racing nuetral switch cover in the mail today. Easy installation. Right? Remove 2 stinking bolts, replace with new part, and replace 2 bolts.
The top bolt SNAPS off flush with the case, and the bottom bolt is on so tight that it strips out the head. I had to use vise-grips to finish removing it. Both bolts had BLUE threadlock on them. &%$#@!? Yamaha got Andre the Giant torquing these things down? So I guess it's off to the local shop to have them drill out the old bolt and re-tap some threads into it.
Has anybody else had this problem? Suggestions?

  • MN_Kevin

Posted February 06, 2004 - 02:24 AM



maybe an easy out

maybe (need help here guys!!) a torch, if you can get a pencil width flame.

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted February 06, 2004 - 04:15 PM


Good advice, Kevin. I was thinking of heating it, too.

  • Wyatt

Posted February 07, 2004 - 06:42 AM


I have put the nuetral switch plate onto two different bikes, and after my experience on the first, this is the only way that I will do it:

First I get a dremel or similar tool and cut the ears of of the stock nuetral cover. Basically destroy it and remove it without removing the screws. Yamaha uses an extremely effective loctite on these screws and just trying to twist them out could cause, in a worst case, the bolt to break off flush with the case.

The reason you want to remove the stock switch in this way is because you need to appy heat to this area. You can't apply heat while the stock switch is in place because it is made of plastic. Once the switch is removed, use a propane torch to apply a small amount of heat to the screws. The loctite melts when the heat is applied. The screw will come out super easy, as if it were lubricated instead of loctited. Once the heat is taken off of the area, the loctite will begin to "cure" again pretty quickly. If it begins to get hard to turn simply reapply a little more heat.

If you have anything at all left of the screw that you can grab hold of, you could remove your broken one this way. If not, get a small left handed drill bit and drill after the heat is applied. The screw will back rigth out while drilling. DO NOT DRILL without a left handed drill bit, and take time to insure that you center punch the bolt and don't drill off center.

  • steveracer

Posted February 07, 2004 - 03:33 PM


what are the advantages of removing the neutral switch? and what do those wires do if they are not needed? :)

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  • jasowiii

Posted March 19, 2004 - 05:52 PM


what are the advantages of removing the neutral switch? and what do those wires do if they are not needed? :)

I just broke my neutral switch. Anyone know what it does on a '98 WR 400 ?????

It's not like I have a magic button! :D


  • Desracer

Posted March 19, 2004 - 09:38 PM


I took mine off without breaking the screws. The bad part was putting it back on because I like the starter not to work unless the clutch is in. So now I have a fancy billet cover for sale. I dont think you need this switch without an e-start.

  • Hamish

Posted March 20, 2004 - 12:53 AM


I had no problems removing mine. Use an impact drive (the type you hit with a hammer) Correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression the the gear position sensor changed the ignition timing depending what gear you were in.


  • MN_Kevin

Posted March 20, 2004 - 03:21 AM


I had heard it lowers the rev limiter as well... :)

  • Matt96xr6

Posted March 20, 2004 - 06:10 AM


On the 426 YZ is it designed to change the ignition curve and limit when in neutral. So if you miss a shift, you dont rev the bike sky high.

Yamaha does this on a LOT of products. Tons of rev limiters. Look at the Raptors, pull in the parking brake and you cannot rev the thing past 1/4 throttle.


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