Clutch problems 2014 yz450f (help greyracer)


15 replies to this topic
  • crf917rider

Posted November 25, 2014 - 02:59 PM

#1

This has been going on for awhile ,since 12 hours or so. I can adjust clutch lever to 1/8 play go around 2 turns and it hits my knuckles with slop, i tighten it back up on the fly and have to keep adjusting it through out the day ,when i loosen it just about all the way out while riding and i stop to take break it gets tight again (sometimes) ive put 4 sets of clutch plates in it including stock im running a arc rc8 clutch perch .Now ive replaced everything with full hinson components took it around my turn track 2 turns later and i had a half of pull slack again same problem im at my wits in im not going to burn up a thousand dollar clutch !!!!! Im not a heavy clutch abuser ether i use it but not excessive ive been riding all my life and never have had this problem

  • Phil Hannah

Posted November 25, 2014 - 04:43 PM

#2

Have you tried new push rod?



  • crf917rider

Posted November 25, 2014 - 06:13 PM

#3

Have you tried new push rod?

Old one looks fine but im going to order new one and cable even though it looks good to

  • Phil Hannah

Posted November 25, 2014 - 06:16 PM

#4

OEM or hinson plates?

  • crf917rider

Posted November 25, 2014 - 07:06 PM

#5

OEM or hinson plates?

Hinson

  • Dexter42

Posted November 25, 2014 - 10:19 PM

#6

What kind of oil are you using?

Edited by Dexter42, November 26, 2014 - 07:52 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted November 26, 2014 - 01:30 PM

#7

The symptoms, normal play when cool and increasing play when hot, add up to the plates expanding with heat and increasing the total height of the plate stack. Typically, this the result of the clutch being slipped too much.

Having owned one full Hinson, and multiple OEM Yamaha clutches, and only having to replace one (after 6 years) your situation strikes me as rather abnormal.

You say you don't abuse the clutch, but I don't see another reason for it beyond that, unless your springs are junk, or you're making some kind of basic assembly error.

Personally, I never touch the clutch lever on a track, or most anywhere else, except going slow in first. It's just always struck me as being completely unnecessary.

  • Bremer120

Posted November 26, 2014 - 07:40 PM

#8

Is the clutch actually wearing or burning when this occurs? Did you install the Hinson setup because the oem was ruined or to try to cure your adjustment problem? Did this issue begin when you installed aftermarket perch? Is there a possibility vibration is causing the perch to loosen up and come out of adjustment?

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  • crf917rider

Posted November 27, 2014 - 01:42 AM

#9

Is the clutch actually wearing or burning when this occurs? Did you install the Hinson setup because the oem was ruined or to try to cure your adjustment problem? Did this issue begin when you installed aftermarket perch? Is there a possibility vibration is causing the perch to loosen up and come out of adjustment?

I would say burning .i put the full hinson in because the oem stuff was ruined because of adjustment problem. I think the hinson clutch fixed it though i took clutch back apart to inspect and the nut that holds the basket had backed off i believe giving the feeling i was getting at the clutch lever this time. Havent had time to ride to check though but in pretty confident . Im surprised it was just a regular washer behind nut instead of one u could bend to lock nut in place.
This all started after a crash and a broken clutch lever so i replaced with a arc lever and kept stock clutch perch . After talking to hinson on the phone for over a hour (great costumer service) i think the lever was not the right pull ratio and several hours later and clutch plates i changed to a full rc8 clutch perch but the damage had been done to basket ,innerhub .hinson also told me something interesting , i run full synthetic in my bike and they said not 2.that i should run a protroleam based oil ,kind of surprising . Anyways the nut backing out was giving the slop i was feeling in the clutch lever with the new clutch making me think i still had same problem that i kept having with the oem stuff thanks for the replys

  • drtrcr400

Posted November 27, 2014 - 08:07 AM

#10

One thing; the washer behind the hub nut is NOT flat. It's a spring washer and it is not supposed to be reused.

  • crf917rider

Posted November 27, 2014 - 09:50 AM

#11

One thing; the washer behind the hub nut is NOT flat. It's a spring washer and it is not supposed to be reused.


Thanks ill be ordering one

  • Dexter42

Posted November 27, 2014 - 10:33 AM

#12

Hinson nailed it!

  • grayracer513

Posted November 28, 2014 - 09:07 AM

#13

One thing; the washer behind the hub nut is NOT flat. It's a spring washer and it is not supposed to be reused.

 

The thick steel washer with the internal splines cut in it that sits between the clutch boss and the basket on a YZ absolutely is a flat thrust washer and can be reused for as long as the ground side is not worn excessively or scored.  In most cases, there will be one rounded edge, the stamped side, and one side with sharper edges, which is the wear side that needs to face the basket.  Older bikes had washers ground on two sides.   The thing with the nut is the kind of "basic assembly error" I was mentioning earlier, and probably caused the problem.  The nut needs no thread locker, but you should not ever reuse the same tab on the tabbed lock washer to secure it.  That's the one you need to replace.



  • drtrcr400

Posted November 28, 2014 - 09:09 AM

#14

The thick steel washer with the internal splines cut in it that sits between the clutch boss and the basket on a YZ absolutely is a flat thrust washer and can be reused for as long as the ground side is not worn excessively or scored. In most cases, there will be one rounded edge, the stamped side, and one side with sharper edges, which is the wear side that needs to face the basket. Older bikes had washers ground on two sides. The thing with the nut is the kind of "basic assembly error" I was mentioning earlier, and probably caused the problem. The nut needs no thread locker, but you should not ever reuse the same tab on the tabbed lock washer to secure it. That's the one you need to replace.


I was talking about the spring washer directly under the hub nut. The newer bikes don't use a lock tab washer anymore.

  • grayracer513

Posted November 28, 2014 - 09:19 AM

#15

My bad.  I saw "behind the hub..." and jumped. :thumbsup:



  • crf917rider

Posted November 28, 2014 - 04:28 PM

#16

Rode all day today no problems deep sand track thanks guys





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