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13 450F Higher Idle? Enricher Knob


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Wondering if any of you gurus have an idea of how i can turn the idle up a bit more on my 13 wr450f?

 

I have a converted supermoto 450f that i am going to be using for street, track, trail, dirt, and stunting, being a stuntrider we typically raise idle a bit to help the bike pull when doing circles and such so your not relying on choppy on and off throttle useage, this is why i need a bit more than what i feel the enricher knob will do.

 

Also curious what that enricher knob on side of the TB actually does. I notice it turns and clicks left and right but you can also pull it out and the idle bumps up a bit, i'm just not sure if thats a safe way to run the bike for extended time when im out practicing.

 

I see some people have had the CO adjusted to elp the bike start better, my bike seems to start great so not sure as if i'll even need that done.

 

Running GYTR comp ECU and FMF slip on, right now using FMF map which i read is more hard hitting so im looking to find the #9 map ive read is a bit softer on bottom which should help me a lot more with slower on idle stunting and not havingthe bike be so abrupt in that state.

 

 

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Its not an enrichment knob. Its an adjustable air bleed. It has nothing to do with the fuel circuit. The injector is the only fuel delivery device in the throttle body.

I cant think of any reason why you couldnt leave the cold start knob out all the time for a faster idle.

If you are looking for a better/smoother off idle response, i suggest installing a yz exhaust cam and filling in the end of the cold start plunger. Search my posts for more details. The cam swap decreases engine braking which really helps smooth things out.

I doubt you would need/want to increase the idle speed after doing these mods but ymmv.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy
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Turn the knob to adjust the idle. Use the programer to see were the RPM is set at. Stock is 2000 the knob should set you to 2500 or so. Try my vlxjim map. And get your CO bumped up to 10 - 15. The CO bump helps blend the idle to the low end portion of the map. It's not just to help the starting. Mine was not that bad of a starter as well. But not only dose it start better but runs cooler and smooths out the hit at the twist. The EPA makes these bike come with very lean idle setting.

 

This map is a cross between the FMF and the #9 map. Give it a try it's smooth down low and power up on top. And runs cool.

 

Vlxjim Map

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3     -2  -1  0

3  4  3     -2  -2  0

 

 

Vlxjim Map more bottom hit

 

 Fuel         Timing

3  4  4      0   0   0

3  5  3     -1   0  0

3  4  3     -1  -1  0

Edited by vlxjim
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thanks for all the great info guys, i will try a few things mentioned. I will have to see if a local shop can do the CO bump for me but thats sounds like a good idea.

 

Does anyone have that aussies maps or a link so i could print them out. I uploaded the ones from the yamaha site but havent put any into the ecu yet.

 

But if i understand it right if i turn the knob CCW as far as it will go them pull the knob out that will probly give me the best overall idle im going to be able to get unless i pull that knob out and see if i can shim it or shave something down, not sure i wanna attempt that on a brand new bike and throttle body.

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Not sure if that's the correct fix, wouldn't you consider something wrong if you have to alter the knob in that form? You should be able to turn that knob CCW and the idle should increase. Maybe there's something else going on.

 

Its not that there is anything wrong with the bike at all its just what i am trying to accomplish. on a carbed bike or most streetbikes you can turn the idle adjust cables to raise idle as far as you could possibly want it. doesnt look like there is an option on this bike to do something like that. Im used to 3500rpm idle on streetbikes but single cylinders usually dont quite need as much.

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Its not an enrichment knob. Its an adjustable air bleed. It has nothing to do with the fuel circuit. The injector is the only fuel delivery device in the throttle body.

I cant think of any reason why you couldnt leave the cold start knob out all the time for a faster idle.

If you are looking for a better/smoother off idle response, i suggest installing a yz exhaust cam and filling in the end of the cold start plunger. Search my posts for more details. The cam swap decreases engine braking which really helps smooth things out.

I doubt you would need/want to increase the idle speed after doing these mods but ymmv.

 

Thats a good idea on the cam swap, that would certainly help not being choppy with throttle as im getting on n off, some riders rely on idle for everything, i am more of a throttle guy when i ride but theres a certain blend that ill still need to get to. Again thanks guys, any others keep um comin, ill report what i end up with.

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I wonder if you could adjust the throttle cables to keep the throttle plate open a little.  If you don't mind not having any free play in the throttle it might work.

That might not work all that well. This would be do to the TPS not getting back to 0. It could make for hard starting and may interfere with the software accelerator pump in the ECU. 

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agreed and i certainly wouldnt want no free play on throttle anyhow that could get sketchy in a hurry. First objective is finding soemone or some shop with the tool to adjust the CO.

 

Is there any specific setting for the CO to be set at or that it should be set at. Think i read 10-15 on above post, assuming either will be way better than what it's at now. Is it at 0 now?

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Its not an enrichment knob. Its an adjustable air bleed. It has nothing to do with the fuel circuit. The injector is the only fuel delivery device in the throttle body.

I cant think of any reason why you couldnt leave the cold start knob out all the time for a faster idle.

If you are looking for a better/smoother off idle response, i suggest installing a yz exhaust cam and filling in the end of the cold start plunger. Search my posts for more details. The cam swap decreases engine braking which really helps smooth things out.

I doubt you would need/want to increase the idle speed after doing these mods but ymmv.

 

Dude needs to adjust his idle, and you suggest YZ cams? And you wonder why people call you out all the time? Man you really need to quit while you're behind and stop giving out ridiculously bad advice, you do more harm than good steering people in the WRONG direction, so just stop already.

 

OP, just turn that knob, it will adjust the idle up or down. Nice and simple, no major modification like YZ cams required. If you bike is hot or cold and hard to start, trying pulling the knob out to start it, then push it back in once it fires up.

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Dude wants a smoother engine down low. Cam and idle plunger mod do that in spades. Best mods you can do in that regard. Have you ever ridden a 2012+ wr450f with these mods ? Nope !

Funny that you hardly rode your wr, you never wrenched on it and you no longer own it and yet you are the expert on all things WR. Bit of narcisism going on there.

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Does not matter if the OP would try my map and get the CO bumped up (which is needed)  it is a night a day difference. The low end smoothness with power is great. Great thing is that it cost nothing and is reversible in seconds. I have not recived one bad report on this setup. And your can feel the difference in the first hundred feet riding it. If after that more is wanted then toss in a cam. Or new head, porting, piston, cams, larger TB, turbo, NOS and race fuel. Maybe laped and polished gears.

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