Yz450f 2008 trail mods


29 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted December 08, 2014 - 11:51 AM

#21

I run a zStart Pro Rekluse clutch. The Rekluse clutch is the single best modification you can do to your YZ for the woods. Just because you have a Rekluse does not mean that you never touch the clutch. I set the clutch to engage immediately off idle and while riding in tight/gnarly stuff I am constantly working the clutch to smooth things out, control wheelspin, etc. The nice thing about the Rekluse is that the clutch pull is much easier, plus you have the added benefit of not having to be perfect 100% of the time. The guys that suffer flameouts with the Rekluse are the guys that never touch the clutch lever.

 

Regarding the Rekluse setup, there are two attributes that can be tuned; the engagement point, and the engagement rate. 

 

Engagement point is the RPM at which the centrifugal mechanism starts to bring the clutch plates under pressure.  This is controlled in both Rekluse designs by changing the return spring pressure.  Heavier springs make it engage at a higher engine speed.

 

Engagement rate is how quickly, in terms of how many RPM's gained, the clutch goes from starting to engage to completely locked up.  That's adjusted by changing the amount of weight used in the clutch, be it wedges or balls.  More weight makes it engage more abruptly. 

 

I set mine up to engage immediately off idle, but I set it up to engage at the slower rate (using fewer balls in the Z-Start Pro).  This can be done with the EXP design by using some or all of the lighter supplied wedges.  The result is that I basically never touch the clutch lever regardless while moving or trying to move through tight spots, loose climbs with ledges in them, or much of anywhere else.  All clutch control is done with the throttle, just like having a manually shifted automatic transmission.  Only use the lever for standing still blipping the engine, finding neutral, stuff like that.  No flame outs, except for the occasional panic brake stomp, and that doesn't even kill the engine most of the time.



  • 700rScott

Posted December 08, 2014 - 12:20 PM

#22

Regarding the Rekluse setup, there are two attributes that can be tuned; the engagement point, and the engagement rate. 

 

Engagement point is the RPM at which the centrifugal mechanism starts to bring the clutch plates under pressure.  This is controlled in both Rekluse designs by changing the return spring pressure.  Heavier springs make it engage at a higher engine speed.

 

Engagement rate is how quickly, in terms of how many RPM's gained, the clutch goes from starting to engage to completely locked up.  That's adjusted by changing the amount of weight used in the clutch, be it wedges or balls.  More weight makes it engage more abruptly. 

 

I set mine up to engage immediately off idle, but I set it up to engage at the slower rate (using fewer balls in the Z-Start Pro).  This can be done with the EXP design by using some or all of the lighter supplied wedges.  The result is that I basically never touch the clutch lever regardless while moving or trying to move through tight spots, loose climbs with ledges in them, or much of anywhere else.  All clutch control is done with the throttle, just like having a manually shifted automatic transmission.  Only use the lever for standing still blipping the engine, finding neutral, stuff like that.  No flame outs, except for the occasional panic brake stomp, and that doesn't even kill the engine most of the time.

 

Is the Z pro much better than the EXP?

 

I forgot that I added a WR coolant catch tank and I never had any issues with it over heating but I still get nervous of it happening.



  • Bturner

Posted December 08, 2014 - 02:50 PM

#23

I've got a FWW, 13/51 & the Rekluse Zstart in my 09.  I love it.  Best woods set up I've had on any of my 450's.  I still use my clutch like normal until I get tired in a HS or towards the end of a long day of tight woods riding.  Get a good offroad suspension set up to go with that & your good to go.  I love how my bike handles in the slow or fast stuff.  Get some Flexxbars too, their the icing on the cake!! 



  • grayracer513

Posted December 08, 2014 - 05:31 PM

#24

Is the Z pro much better than the EXP?

 

It's much better than the EXP 3.0, yes.  If nothing else, the holding capacity of the clutch is better simply because the ZSP has more clutch plates.  Most  I've talked to who have had both say the ZSP is much smoother in operation than the EXP in off-road situations.  The Core EXP is another matter.  It's a complete clutch engineered for racing around the EXP design.



  • mdsharon

Posted December 08, 2014 - 06:10 PM

#25

Yes the exp core 3.0 is top notch..


Edited by mdsharon, December 08, 2014 - 06:14 PM.


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  • areknocun

Posted January 11, 2015 - 10:24 PM

#26

Ok. I can say that heavier flywheel is a money well spent.
I like it a lot. Much more manageable for noob like me in these tight gnarly sections.

Now bought some pieces to do breather reroute (shame that I did not know about it when trying to kick start bike in deep water few months ago - and was wondering how on earth weather made it to oil).

Also pro moto kick stand is on its way (no more searching for rocks/ branches)

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  • FastRC45

Posted January 11, 2015 - 11:37 PM

#27

Use the power of google... I just picked up a PMB kickstand off Amazon for $65. Claimed it was used, but it came brand new in PMB/Fastway packaging. The packaging was jacked up, but was clearly brand new...

  • 700rScott

Posted January 12, 2015 - 08:59 AM

#28

Ok. I can say that heavier flywheel is a money well spent.
I like it a lot. Much more manageable for noob like me in these tight gnarly sections.

Now bought some pieces to do breather reroute (shame that I did not know about it when trying to kick start bike in deep water few months ago - and was wondering how on earth weather made it to oil).

Also pro moto kick stand is on its way (no more searching for rocks/ branches)

 What did you do for the breather hose? did you leave a drip leg with the bottom closed or just put the tee with the bottom open so it can vent to the air box? I was trying to figure out the best way for this but wasn't sure how I wanted to do it. Some how I allways manage to over fill the motor and oil pukes out of the line so I was worried about going right to the air box.



  • areknocun

Posted January 12, 2015 - 08:56 PM

#29

What did you do for the breather hose? did you leave a drip leg with the bottom closed or just put the tee with the bottom open so it can vent to the air box? I was trying to figure out the best way for this but wasn't sure how I wanted to do it. Some how I allways manage to over fill the motor and oil pukes out of the line so I was worried about going right to the air box.


I have seen few videos/ tutorials with few options


1.
route it directly to airbox (overfilled oil will be also dumped there)

2
Use T connection, route one end to airbox, other down beside shock with open end (extra oil will be dumped through there)

3.
Use T connection, but having bottom line caped off ( you will have to open it from time to time to dump gathered oil)


I went for option 2 but at the end of line I've installed one way valve (from tank vent hose) so oil can be dumped, but nothing can get up the line.

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  • 700rScott

Posted January 13, 2015 - 06:21 AM

#30

I have seen few videos/ tutorials with few options


1.
route it directly to airbox (overfilled oil will be also dumped there)

2
Use T connection, route one end to airbox, other down beside shock with open end (extra oil will be dumped through there)

3.
Use T connection, but having bottom line caped off ( you will have to open it from time to time to dump gathered oil)


I went for option 2 but at the end of line I've installed one way valve (from tank vent hose) so oil can be dumped, but nothing can get up the line.

 

That does look like the best way and what does the tank vent do at the bottom? Also do you think the carb lines should be going to the air box too? I noticed my wolverine 4x4 quad has them going to the air box  but I'm not sure how they really work for our carbs.


Edited by 700rScott, January 13, 2015 - 06:23 AM.






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