1993 KAWASAKI KLX650C1 SUPERMOTO TURBO

[Crofter985]

I decided to rebuil my turbo setupp at the end of last summer,i wanted a smaaler exhaus pipe to the turbo for more exhaus pressure and a bit bigger plenium to extrackt the charger puls from the turbo. I have also ported and change the inlet angel inn the cylinder head,ported the carburetor did some smaal turbo exhaus porting,and aded a hotcam2 fore more charging pressure. I hope this changes vill make the same chargingpressure at the topp rpm as before vith out e85 and maybe 1,2bar vith! The sveede 10 yers ago didn get the right chargingpressure inn the dynobech his xrrturbo was puting out 105,3 rwhp vith 0,77bar at 8000rpm on the road he charged 1,2 bar and did ca 125-130rwhp!!! Its verry funny vith a light dirt/motard bike vith this much power!!

I am looking at all the parts of the bike now. I will modify and weld the crank and fit a forged piston this year but to get the bike running the rest of the engine will be standard for now. I have been thinking a bit about the inlet tract so I am interested you have modified yours. It seems that the inlet tract of modern super bikes all have ever straighter shots to the back of the inlet valve. It's not easy to see how it could be straightened by much on the KLX but I will sort something out given time.

[Crofter985]

Here is two more photos of HP's bike.

[CR500XR650RNORWAY]

When i jetted the carb was the big job to make the bike go steddy aal the way low to high rpm,the first ting was to kill the axpump cause the fuelpresure inside the floth bovle is higher then turbopresure that cause fuel to go the wrong way in the carb. The fuel was going over to the axpump piston and to the outside of the carb causing a big fuel leak when the pressure came,i pluged the axpum inside outside inlet outlet,removed the piston and the fuel ax jet in the carb.when the fuel pressure is higer in the floth bowl, you vil need turbo pressure in the floth bolv chamber.I conected the turbopresure from the tubo to the vacum chamber on the carb,to geth the the fuel pressure right,my fuel pressure is 0,1-0,2 bars more than the chargerpressure aal the way,its posible to make smaal diferences vith the main jets and needle.To make upp for the axpump its posible to fill in the half moon on the backside of the trotle piston to force the engine to suck moore fuel,if not its danger for a detd spot in the register. Its not any trouble when you have a lambda and a dyno bench to set upp the bike. HP

[Crofter985]

Hi,

Yes I think I understand.

Did you find that the jetting of the carb was close to what it was before the turbo was added?

[CR500XR650RNORWAY]

Hi,

Yes I think I understand.

Did you find that the jetting of the carb was close to what it was before the turbo was added?

yes the jetting was almoust right,i only change the pilot jet to on litle bigger and smaal changes to the main jet,the adjustment with the fuel regulator is posible if it runs lean or rich just ad more fuelpressure or oposite way. HP

[Crofter985]

Right, a while there with not much done, phisically anyway but some parts gathering and planning, lots of planning, most discarded for being daft/crazy/impossible.

I took a cylinder head, cylinder and piston to work with me to familiarise myself with the parts.

I got a bit tempted to do a big bore, that was the main reason for the hours of fondeling those castings, but Iv kind of gone off the idea, the extra time and effort and then the extra gas to go past the valves and that goes especially in the case of the exhaust valve. There will be a bit of heat there just dealing with 651cc. I already have a 100mm standard bore wossner piston as well. So, standard bore it is.

My bench is abit of a disgrace, tools and aluminium dust from the plenum build, I cleared it up a bit but I had already decided a new bench was needed, one dedicated to spanners bolts and stuff. No welding and grinding allowed. So a few bits of wood, screws and a big bottle of glue.

It might be a bit high but I always end up face into everything peering at it so the height might be ok? If you cared to look closely at it, it would betray my lack of carpentry skill but I do not expect it to fold in a hurry. It's braced in all panes by plywood and that's a 2" top, bench sorted.

So, let's get some use out of it. Here's some of the new internals, I was going to run the engine as made but the standard cast piston really would not do with the extra heat. So to solve that a forged wossner piston has been sourced, I got it about a year ago, off eBay, it's brand new but 2nd hand.

The other parts here are head and base gaskets and a full gasket set(not in pic) a new crank pin and thrust washers, a Carrillo rod, a KLX "R" inlet cam and a walkers of NZ clutch with uprated springs. Another thing I forgot to dig out for the picture is a set of viton valve stem seals.

There is also a new carb/air box adaptor there, I found it on eBay, it came from a vendor in Holland it is a more satisfactory adaptor with more sealing area than the one I had before, better for handling some pressure, hopefully.

And most obviously yet another engine. The engine is still in the bike, I got another one around Christmas and then another last week. I am sure I will wreck one do another is handy.

The last bit of this update is slightly off topic but same kind of vein, I found this little gem, again on eBay, a KR1-S 250........

The plan is to take out the little two stroke engine and shoehorn a KLX engine in it. Only after I get the turbo supermoto up and running. It's been set up for racing so there is an uprated shock and zxr400 usd forks so it's a decent base to start from.

The next move is to strip down one of those engines on the bench, to get the crank out, I'm going to order a new set of rollers for the big end, I mistakenly thought that a bearing came with the rod but I misread the email on that one, , no matter. I am going to take the crank to a specialist crank builder, to fit the rod, bearing and to weld it up to help it cope.

Then after I get the last of the intake made up I will take the engine out of the bike and strip that bike down and build it up with the assembled trick parts.

So lots to do, as usual. ?

[Crofter985]

Before I started stripping down the first motor I made two stands to make things easier.

[Crofter985]

The first thing I did after the cam cover came off was to check the valve clearances, exhaust, both zero clearance, this engine must not have been running very well. Then I noticed that the little spring that holds the KACR (autodecompressor) was missing. No sign of it yet. Then I saw this repair job on the cam retainer, quite well done, somebody must have dropped it??

I'm not sure how the stainless steel inserts are held in the alloy and I would have to destroy it to find out so I will just leave it.

i took all the rest of the parts off the head and took it off. Oh yeh, when I lifted out the valve lifter buckets I found a scrap of spring for the KACR.

The inside of the combustion chamber looks kind of oily, could be leaky stem seals, the head gasket looked ok buuuuut........ Possibly no wonder, the exhaust valve seats are in poor shape, the lack of valve clearance would explain that and the engine could not have been making much power which of course is pressure, so no stress on the head joint.

Here is a little idea I had to lock the clutch.

Don't know if I needed the two but it did not slip anyway.

The clutch basket centre had two strange marks on it.

It looks a bit like welds but it's not that, certainly heat has been involved, but when? The part looks ok though, see what the rest of them looks like, I've got two more to strip so I might be wiser by that time.

Yuck!

It looks worse than it is although it's not good, it's mostly black sealant, or that's what it looks like, also some more of the KACR spring.

Here's how it should have looked.

It's not just that great but not all bad, all the bearings look good. I suspect the engine that is in the bike just now will be suffering in the exhaust valve department, it was a bit down on power I thought, it certainly shows how important regular maintenance of the valve clearances is.

Edited May 19, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

Better luck with the 2nd engine, head in good condition, valve clearances all within spec, at the better end of the scale too. Got the head off and then progress was stalled by the flywheel being stuck on. But I have enough parts around now to rebuild so Iv found the right puller and ordered one.

[Crofter985]

This is the 2nd strip down's strainer, not good really, the 1st engine was clean on this strainer and then the square one between the cases was the one full of crap on the other post.

This is sealant no metal evident.

[Crofter985]

I pulled the engine out of the turbo bike, it looked really clean, this is looking down the intake.

I gave it a clean up on the outside then pulled the cam cover and checked the valves, I was quite surprised when the clearances were a litte over spec so they must have been done recently. Then I took off the cam retainer, hmmm, not so good, cam journals look a bit beat up.

The journals on the exhaust cam looks scored and black, it could be some sealant got into the cam journal? It's not easy to know. The intake was ok, journals in good condition.

This is the little strainer!!!!!!!!!! Oh no!

It's so full of shit the pump has sucked it flat.

Well that's a lot of crap, again it just looks like sealant and perhaps some plastic metal stuff that looked like it had been chased out of a thread by a bolt. Gee, this is the engine I had running, the oil pressure was really good too, well when cold anyway, the pump would have been struggling to suck the thicker oil as well so it probably would have been ok when hot? Right?

I think with what I've seen so far the 2nd engine should be my focus.

I still need to split that engine though. What horrors await? It's old engines when all is said and done. That will be '93 or '94 bikes so they have 20 years of this that and the next, what stories could they tell. Anyway hopefully they will be bragging to their buddy's about huge Dyno numbers before the year is out.

Edited May 21, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

I made a bung the other day and threaded it, it's for the fuel return to the tank, the welding of it I thought I would leave to someone else. Good job I did, the lad did a fine job on it.

Looks the job!

It's TIG welded, look how the paint around it is hardly even scorched! If I had tried it I was going to oxyacetylene weld it, Iv done that but not for 20 years, there's no way it would have been as neat as that.

That's probably not the neatest welding of the whole job but it shows how little heat spread there was.

So that's ready to go.

Edited May 22, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

Today

It's looking less like a bike now than it has for a while. I think now it's this far stripped I'll take the frame off the forks and give it a lick of paint. You can see the turquoise original paint has been painted over with black. The tank rear mudguard and scoops will stay green the side panels white, I was thinking a white front mudgaurd might look ok? The frame black looked ok so that could just stay black.

White front mudgaurd might be too much with the White fork guards

Edited May 22, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

The subject of lubricating has been nagging at me since the outset of this project, the manual for the KLX says that 7-12psi is normal oil pressure. Not a lot for turbo oiling, not a lot of oiling for the cylinder head as well. This is the pumping set up on the bike.

The pump and rotor to the right is the main lube pump and the one to the left is the scavenge pump, as far as I can see this pump acts like a dry sump pump by controlling the oil level in the engine and storing it possibly in the gearbox? The main pump feeds from the gearbox through the little thimble shaped strainer so this would make sense. Im kinda thinking this through while I write this so I hope it all makes some sense.

So more oil, the scavenge pump is the same diameter, rotor size and shaft size as the main pump but 5mm wider, I'm asuming that will mean it can pump more. I have thought about this a lot, mostly through last summer, I was busy with other stuff and not home to work on the bike so I was mostly studying the manual and pictures of the crankcases, clutch cover and oil pumps. The idea then was also to put the bigger rotor in somehow, I was thinking along the lines of milling back into the crankcase to make a recess for the wider pump to sit in. I eventually gave up on that plan as it kept throwing so much problems up. Even lately I had a new plan, the KLX c is built without a kicker unlike the R, the space could house an oil pump? I got a zxr750 pump off eBay so I could get an idea of the physical size of that pump. That still might be do-able if all else fails. I did consider driving a gear pump off one of the cams but it's not as neat as a in crankcase solution.

So latest version, and to me the least time and effort for hopefully a good result. The bigger rotor goes in the pump (normally a 7mm rotor, now going to be a 12mm scavenge rotor) making the pump 5mm wider. The scavenge pump will still be there and is driven off the outboard end of the oil pump shaft, so the whole clutch cover will have to go out 5mm too, a second gasket and an aluminium packer plate cut out on a waterjet bed should do for that. The clutch release rod would have to be made longer, also I could put an extra steel and friction plate in the clutch, coincidentally they add up to 5mm thick, so that's two possible ways to achieve that. The oil feed to the crankshaft and the piston and bigend lubrication goes through the end of the end of the crankshaft and to there from drillings in the clutch cover so the lip seal that seals around there would have to be shifted back inboard 5mm by an adaptor turned out of aluminium I think. The drive to the oil pump and the waterpump would have to go out, possibly not all of 5mm, 4 or 3.5 might do, it will still be enough contact with the gears to drive it surely. Oh and the oil pump itself, I will make a new shaft for it, 5mm longer than the original, the gear looks to be shrunk/pressed on so that will be pressed off and pressed on the new shaft.

All this should be reversible in the event of it being a flop. But I intend to run some tests so I can say, yes it's more or damn I wasted my time on that scheme.

I got a loom with the last motor I got and enough electrics to run an engine off the bike so I'm going to set up a test engine to try it out.

[Crofter985]

Well it's been a while. With no progress. There's been a lot of other stuff on. But I've now got a bit of time, well I'm making time.

Right the oil pump, I got going with this yesterday morning. I have a couple of spare oil pumps now so I started cutting one up to make a 5mm spacer to be able to fit the 12mm thick gear from the scavenge pump. That bit was fairly straight forward. Then I made a 5mm longer shaft. Again really not a big job, so I now have the oil pump.

There it is, on the right is the standard pump and all the bits and then the pump with the 5mm larger gear on the left.

Edited August 2, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

So the oil pump is fitted with the bigger gear, I started looking at it and measuring it, wondering if o could loose the 5mm in the pump body somehow. So I started adding up what i thought I could get away with, 1.5mm of the base 1mm off the gear, etc......

And there it is, I have surprised myself on this one but it just shows you, all that trying to sort the problem out in my head in advance is no substitute to having the parts in my hands. It was pretty straight forward too. The pump is actually still 0.4mm wider than the standard pump but it fits in and the clutch cover goes on so there was obviously 0.4mm or more leeway. The pump will have to be put together with countersink head set screws instead of the button head ones that were on before and as I was sure the only ones I would get in town was stainless ones so I ordered some steel ones off eBay, they will be here in a couple of days. And I can put that job to bed. Now it will be as easy to go from the original pump to the new pump, just whip off the clutch cover, three m6 screws off, three screws on, cover back on. Sorted. The elegant solution.

Edited August 3, 2015 by Crofter985

[Crofter985]

Well for every up there's a down. I need to get the crank pressed apart to put in the new rod. So I made up a jig to do the job.

I was feeling quite pleased, the warm feeling inside was short lived. I had a go at pressing the crank pin out but the lip of the jig pushed down when I had only got 2-3 tonnes on it, no movement of the crank pin. So I dressed up the edge of the jig, spent a bit more time shaping the lip. I think there was a little more strain on the press, I used a blow torch to heat up the crank to see if that would help. Just a small propane torch, not too much heat so as to harm the temper of the crank. Same result again the lip of the jig just pushed down.

You can see on this pic where the lip of the crank pushed the steel away, ok fair enough, it was just a bit of 20mm plate I got whilst on a trip to the scrap yard. Sooooo, I got a bit of better steel, it's stuff we use at work called "Hardox" we use it for wear plates it lasts much longer than ordinary steel. So I cut a bit off a old plate about 50X30x10 and welded it in the jig. I put it in the mill and had a go at milling a lip, it was much harder to mill, I used a TCT mill with replaceable tips and the mill did not like it much, but it cut a lip, I cut the minimum I needed so as not to push my luck too far. So try 3 was on.

I heated it up again but again not too much. But this time the lip on the crank sheared off, it took nothing as well, I had a few tonnes on it and it just came off.

Well there you go, one wrecked crank, not a happy bunny here! What did I do wrong?

[Crofter985]

My wife is away on holiday so I took the opportunity to put a few engine parts trough the dishwasher. I had already boiled the cylinder head in a pot for a day in water with a few dishwasher tablets in as well. The exhaust ports was the worst bits, boiling them softened the carbon deposits and the cycle through the dishwasher flushed it all out.

I polished up the valves and lapped them in and lapped the head and barrel together before the trip to the dishwasher.

[Crofter985]

This is the original bike engine, I am going to use this as the base for the first motor. It's cases are the best. There is a filter screen in between the cases, I really need to look at it, the other screen filter in the engine was quite gummed up so there's a good chance it will be too.

It wasn't too bad. With the cases split I might as well have a go at the crank too.

WTF! I used more heat, got more pressure on it then it went witha bang, the same thing again, lip broke off the crank.

Well, ongoing to carry on building the motor so the Carrillo rod is going to have to sit on the sidelines. I'm gutted but it will go in later.

So I put the first crank I tried pressing apart in (because it was cool) and wossner piston in and got the barrel on. I honed that yesterday before it went in the dishwasher. Now I forgot to get a torque wrench, so I'm going to leave it at that tonight. One more thing I did as iwent along, I drilled out a little plug in the oil ways going to the gearbox the reason being I want to create a test point for a oil pressure reading. I drilled it out to 6.5mm then ran a m8x1.25 tap in it. Then I milled a flat on to the area so I would get a good seal.

So that's the progress for now. But one last pic, this was the sight when I took the head off this motor, I don't think this head joint could have been sealing properly so it's a good job I didn't just slap the turbo on and go for it.

[Crofter985]

I got a bit more done with building the motor.

So that's the head on and torqued down, valve clearances done, cam timing, generator and starter gears on and cover on. I've just put the exhaust on (straightened out to direct the noise away from the engine while I'm running it in/testing the oil pumps. So that's the starting point, I'll just get it running in standard form, near enough. I'm not too far off with my dyno now, I intend to run this up on the dyno with no turbo first to see what the power is like with the engine as it is and the fcr 41 on it.