Frustrated and starting to get desperate


24 replies to this topic
  • grayracer513

Posted December 11, 2014 - 03:03 PM

#21

...along with an effective heat barrier created by the interface of the two metals.  Cold seizures, however, are much less common since changes in aluminum metallurgy and forging techniques have taken hold.  The expansion rate of a modern forged piston is drastically lower than it was 40 years ago.



  • donkwr

Posted December 12, 2014 - 07:48 AM

#22

Very true

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  • psmith994

Posted December 12, 2014 - 07:54 AM

#23

So. A quick update. Don't need a new cylinder. I miss read the micrometer. Oops. I'm still waiting for parts as I've completely torn apart the top and bottom end to replace the crank. Whilst it is apart I'm going to replace all the electrical parts and hopefully that will solve whatever the issue is. Thanks for all your help. I will let you all know how it goes!

  • bobpara

Posted December 12, 2014 - 01:20 PM

#24

Getting back to your wiring problem. The spark plug wire needs to be connected to the plug and the 'negative' wire is to physically contact the side of the plug with the engine block. Dont do it out in the sunlight as it can sometimes be hard to see.

 

If still no spark, I think you have a cut wire somewhere that is acting like a kill switch. physical access to EVERY wire is important when working on a problem like this. Remove tank, all plastic, headlight, everything.

 

....You are saying you followed the test for EVERY component in the factory manual? Stator, CDI, kill switch, ignition switch everything? EVERY individual electrical component in the system tests OK?



  • psmith994

Posted December 12, 2014 - 01:27 PM

#25

Yeah. Everything tests ok. I think I was testing the spark wrong though if what you say is right. I was just grabbing the plug itself and kicking it over and not getting shocked. Hmmmm. Maybe a user head space and timing issue.




 
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