Frustrated and starting to get desperate


24 replies to this topic
  • psmith994

Posted October 07, 2014 - 08:34 AM

#1

SO heres my story. Sorry its so long. I need help.

   I bought a 2001 wr426 a little over a year ago. when i bought it it was not complete and i knew going into it that id need to repair and replace a lot of parts. At one point during the rebuild i got it together just enough to get this bike running. i was ecstatic. it had been sitting outside in the weather for a couple of years with no side covers on it. 

 

Fast forward a few months and ive finally got every part and piece i need to put this amazing bike together and go riding. I get on it and kick......and kick and kick and kick....you get the idea.....it wont start. Hmmmm i say maybe the carb is dirty. so i tear in to the bike again. clean carb, check fuel line, replace fuel, i never took the top end apart so its good, put it all back together and kick and kick and kick.....nothing.

 

I think crazy and replace the aprak plug. nothing. so i check the spark. AH HA!!!!no spark! i say to myself...I can fix this....Negative ghost rider.

 

I cannot figure out why i dont have spark. ive tested all the wiring. ive checked the stator and the pickup is clean.all the wires are connected and clean. the ground is clean and tight. ive replaced the coil. ive replaced the cdi.

 

i dont get it. it worked fine and now nothing. i havent messed with any of the wiring except to test and clean. everything looks good.

 

Wtf do i do now. ive spent way too much money on it to just get rid of it, i wont get back as much as i put into it if it doesnt run.

 

Please help. Any ideas as to what is wring. ill try any thing. Im frustrated.  



  • Kcizik

Posted October 07, 2014 - 10:01 AM

#2

You know I had the same problem. It turns out I had some connectors crossed. It seems from the stator going to the main harness there's two connectors, same size and shape. They only difference is color of the plastic. I had them swapped around. Once I change the that is worked and fired up.

  • torkd14

Posted October 07, 2014 - 03:02 PM

#3

Faulty kill switch keeping it from running maybe?

  • psmith994

Posted October 07, 2014 - 03:06 PM

#4

I've tried disconnecting the kill switch. I don't really know if that would work. But if it does work...it didn't work. ......great now I'm confused

  • revelc

Posted October 07, 2014 - 04:20 PM

#5

Get a Power Probe if you think it's electrical. They are time savers.


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

  • psmith994

Posted October 07, 2014 - 04:39 PM

#6

Power probe? More info please

  • revelc

Posted October 08, 2014 - 10:53 AM

#7

http://www.amazon.co...edir_mdp_mobile


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

  • psmith994

Posted October 11, 2014 - 06:51 PM

#8

You know I had the same problem. It turns out I had some connectors crossed. It seems from the stator going to the main harness there's two connectors, same size and shape. They only difference is color of the plastic. I had them swapped around. Once I change the that is worked and fired up.

........... no luck. The connectors are fine. My only hope is that I've got some metal on the inside of the magneto. I'll find out in a couple of days when my puller gets here. Any other ideas?

  • DunmireD001

Posted October 15, 2014 - 12:56 AM

#9

Bad stator. ??

  • DunmireD001

Posted October 15, 2014 - 01:02 AM

#10

I broke a stator once while trying to float the ground. My flywheel puller bolts were screwed in too far and scraped the shlacker off of the coils causing it to fail. Not sure what could have caused yours to fail, but if the side covers were off of it for a while, I'm sure it's possible there could be rust, or water damage. Electrical parts dislike water.

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  • donkwr

Posted October 15, 2014 - 07:47 AM

#11

You need to check the ohms resistance of your coil, both primary and secondary, check pick-up coil resistance and disconnect any kill switches. If these components check good, then it's a good chance it's the CDI. Only way to check the CDI is to replace it with a known good unit.

You can usually get the resistance specs from the dealer



  • still2smokin

Posted October 16, 2014 - 07:47 AM

#12

What Donk said , You should be able to download a manual for your bike in the
pinned topics at the top of the WR forum .
It will have all the resistance/voltage tolerances for trouble shooting the electrical components.

I had a similar problem as you and it turned out to be corroded connector to the
coil . Good luck and don't give up.

  • Flooder305

Posted December 07, 2014 - 03:18 PM

#13

Resolved?



  • psmith994

Posted December 07, 2014 - 05:53 PM

#14

Unfortunately no. Not yet. I actually had to tear it to the motor and replace the crank. So the electrical is on hold. I plan on replacing every single God-forsaken piece of electronic equipment on it. That should do it.

  • bobpara

Posted December 08, 2014 - 01:29 PM

#15

As far as your electrical problem goes, I'd go with Stillsmokin's idea and get your mitts on the factory manual. They have procedures for testing every component. Id start with the stator test and work my may out from there. Manual should also have a schematic you can follow. Without this info you are flying blind and just guessing.



  • bobpara

Posted December 08, 2014 - 01:33 PM

#16

BTW: do you need a nice true front rim for your bike?

 

http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649



  • psmith994

Posted December 08, 2014 - 03:21 PM

#17

I have a manual. Everything checks out. Within spec. It's weird I have signal from the stator to the cdi. Then I got nothing. Does the spark plug have to be in in order for it to get spark? I have the plug out and I grab it and kick it over and don't get shocked. I've replaced the cdi twice now ( used ) I can't have gotten a bad cdi two times in a row could I?

  • psmith994

Posted December 08, 2014 - 03:23 PM

#18

I'm good a on a front wheel but I need a cylinder. Got one of those laying around. Mine is out of spec. Or how difficult is it to resleeve one of these things?

  • grayracer513

Posted December 11, 2014 - 12:48 PM

#19

I'm good a on a front wheel but I need a cylinder. Got one of those laying around. Mine is out of spec. Or how difficult is it to resleeve one of these things?

 

You shouldn't sleeve it, you should replate it.  Costs about 60-75% of the price of a new cylinder.  Maybe less, considering that the prices on the obsolete stuff from Yamaha is usually a little higher.



  • donkwr

Posted December 11, 2014 - 02:47 PM

#20

I agree, replate is always a better choice. When you sleeve the stock cylinder, you now have dissimilar metals (cast iron and aluminum) which expand at different rates and can cause cold seizures of the piston

Edited by donkwr, December 11, 2014 - 02:48 PM.





 
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