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Rekluse Core Manual with Torq drive? Along with clutch questions/ideas.


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I have an 09 450 with a z-star pro. Im recently getting more into cross training using more trials techniques. The z-star pro is great for the most part but I cannot modulate it much. It's more of an on and off kind of affair. At the end of the day i'm always at the mercy of how hard and or quickly the z-star pro is set up to engage. That is my problem at this point.

 

Before I got the z-star pro the stock clutch pull was just to much for long hare and hounds with the miles of rocks, water falls, and down hills they put us threw. That is what triggered buying the z-star pro in the first place and it did in fact cure my arm pump problem. Now that my skills have progressed and I want to learn new things it is holding me back I feel.

 

The way I see it I have two options.

 

#1 From what I have found on the new Core manual with torq drive it is more resilient to experiencing fade and exhibits excellent modualtion and provides easier pull. Now that sounds like exactly what I want but at 900$ that is quite the plunge into darkness with the promise of light somewhere below.

 

#2 Do the 06 clutch modification and install a Magura hydraulic clutch. This option from searching the internet provides great results and is more to the tune of 550$. 

 

I'm not ready to pull the trigger on either right this second but regardless it's a question I could use some opinions on..

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First, it's a Z-Start Pro.  Secondly, it sounds like you may have the engagement rate set up to be quicker than it should be.  If you are running a full set of 27 balls, you should give it a try with 24.  You don't modulate the clutch on this setup, you let the clutch do it, and modulate things using the throttle.

 

A hydraulic clutch setup will not reduce the lever effort measurably compared to a Yamaha cable setup in good condition.  It still has to move the clutch pressure plate the same distance with the same lever movement, so there's no advantage in leverage.

 

The Z-Start Pro uses the existing basket and friction plates, so all you would need is a boss, pressure plate, spring set and plates, all of which you can get for much less than $500.

 

Another thing I do differently is to switch the 6 friction plates in the middle of the stack with plates from an R1 (5VY-16321-00-00), leaving the 5TA-16321-00-00 plates at the top and bottom where they run against aluminum parts.  They seem to release more cleanly, and engage more smoothly, and they certainly hold up well in the auto clutch.  This is the same plate stack Yamaha runs in the 450R quad.

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You can also reduce the tension on the OEM clutch by shimming the spring retainer bolts out to preload the springs less (done by using shims under the shoulder of the bolt, inside the spring) or by using alternate springs.  The '09 WR450 has different springs (90501-237L0-00) than the YZ450F (90501-230E4-00), and I don't know for certain, but I'm guessing that the difference is that the WR springs are lighter. 

 

The Core manual is a great clutch, of course.  The concept is very simple: more plates equals more holding surface, which should translate to more holding capacity with the same pressure, or equivalent capacity at much lower pressures (resulting in a lighter pull).

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First, it's a Z-Start Pro.  Secondly, it sounds like you may have the engagement rate set up to be quicker than it should be.  If you are running a full set of 27 balls, you should give it a try with 24.  You don't modulate the clutch on this setup, you let the clutch do it, and modulate things using the throttle.

 

A hydraulic clutch setup will not reduce the lever effort measurably compared to a Yamaha cable setup in good condition.  It still has to move the clutch pressure plate the same distance with the same lever movement, so there's no advantage in leverage.

 

The Z-Start Pro uses the existing basket and friction plates, so all you would need is a boss, pressure plate, spring set and plates, all of which you can get for much less than $500.

 

Another thing I do differently is to switch the 6 friction plates in the middle of the stack with plates from an R1 (5VY-16321-00-00), leaving the 5TA-16321-00-00 plates at the top and bottom where they run against aluminum parts.  They seem to release more cleanly, and engage more smoothly, and they certainly hold up well in the auto clutch.  This is the same plate stack Yamaha runs in the 450R quad.

 

Z-Start pro  ?  I'v only been saying that and typing that wrong for about 2-3 years. 

 

I'm currently running a full set of balls, no punned intended. What i'm looking to do is regain the ability to loft the front end from a dead stop. With the current set up if i'm at a dead stop standing on the bike no matter how quick I turn the throttle the bike takes a few feet to lock up the clutch and put the power to the ground to start bring up the front end. If I had to guess about 6-8 feet of run up before full engagement. If going to 24 would help that, I will for sure give it a try.

 

Loud and clear on the hydraulic versus cable as far as ease of pull. The only advantage over the cable would be the automatic adjustment of free play from abuse. Correct?

 

I still have the stock boss but almost half of my 500$ figure was the Hydraulic clutch set up.

 

Good to know about the r1 plates thanks.

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I had mixed feelings about my EXP 2.0.  At first i thought it was nice because it made technical sections really easy and helped with arm pump.  It took me a couple of months before I realized that I was getting slower, not faster.  As soon as I went back to a manual clutch, speed improved.  Auto clutch just felt strange.  Bike didn't lean over as good in the corners and didn't hook up quite the way I wanted it too, even with different springs and new plates.

 

I'd love to try the Core Manual with Torq Drive. Price is just a little too much for me.

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