My new, used 2012 WR450F


19 replies to this topic
  • Cade_702

Posted October 02, 2014 - 08:14 PM

#1

Hey all, let me start off by saying hi all and introducing myself. My name is Cade. I live in Henderson Nevada. I have rode motorcycles and quads my entire life but haven't owned a dirt bike for about 6 years. My last bike was a YZ450F. I loved the bike except for the 4 speed tranny. Anyways, my WR is pathetic in its stock form. It feels like it has less power output then a 125. I have read a lot of great info on here. I orderd the competition ecu. I didn't buy the tuner yet... Can I just take it somewhere to have it mapped for the most power output? Or is it better to have the tuner? I've jetted plenty of carbs, but have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to fuel injection. Anyone in here live in the Vegas area that would like to help me out that has experience uncorking the WR? I pay in steak and beer. Also, I have read a lot about pulling the pee shooter out of the exhaust. Is there anything else that needs to come out of the exhaust?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I bought the bike and went out of town for work the following day so I have just been dreaming about it from the hotel...

Thanks,

Cade

  • revelc

Posted October 02, 2014 - 08:23 PM

#2

Hey all, let me start off by saying hi all and introducing myself. My name is Cade. I live in Henderson Nevada. I have rode motorcycles and quads my entire life but haven't owned a dirt bike for about 6 years. My last bike was a YZ450F. I loved the bike except for the 4 speed tranny. Anyways, my WR is pathetic in its stock form. It feels like it has less power output then a 125. I have read a lot of great info on here. I orderd the competition ecu. I didn't buy the tuner yet... Can I just take it somewhere to have it mapped for the most power output? Or is it better to have the tuner? I've jetted plenty of carbs, but have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to fuel injection. Anyone in here live in the Vegas area that would like to help me out that has experience uncorking the WR? I pay in steak and beer. Also, I have read a lot about pulling the pee shooter out of the exhaust. Is there anything else that needs to come out of the exhaust?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I bought the bike and went out of town for work the following day so I have just been dreaming about it from the hotel...

Thanks,

Cade

I started with removing the snorkel and peashooter. Noticeable but not a big difference.

I got the ECU and throttle screw next. HOLY CRAP. The power to $ ratio is higher than any other mod you will ever come across.

Then I started playing with the tuner. Honestly, I entered a bunch of maps I found online but stuck with the Aussie map and hardly use it.

I finally added a Yoshi and it allowed the engine to breath better but not a BIG boost in power. The juice is really locked up in the ECU.

I'd hold off on tuner and after market pipe unless you desire more sound, a little extra oomph, and enjoy tinkering with fuel mapping.

The tuner interface is very easy to use and makes it a fun experience. I just loved one map and ended up leaving it at home when it was time to ride.


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

Edited by revelc, October 02, 2014 - 08:26 PM.


  • Cade_702

Posted October 02, 2014 - 08:47 PM

#3

Alright, good to know. I've always had motocross bikes till this one. I had no idea they came so restricted. I mean, I had read about it but damn... I want it to run good and strong, but not to lean. I paid pretty much top dollar for this one used, but it's completely stock except for the dealership ship installed street legal kit and supposedly has between 3 and 5 hours on it. It looks brand new... That won't last but a ride. I've got the computing ecu and some Unabiker radiator braces coming. Never used those braces before, but they look good and it sounds like they really hold up. I'm trying to be smart this time around and put radiator braces on my radiator before it's bent. Hopefully that makes the install a little easier. Is it at all possible to have the bike run to lean being fuel injected?

  • revelc

Posted October 03, 2014 - 04:00 AM

#4

I know what you mean. My WR250R had more power than the stock WR450F.

A buddy would leave me in the dust on his XR400R before the ECU. After that everyone complained about my roost and not waiting up.


Definitely do the radiator guards first. I didn't install mine right away because it involved draining the coolant and removing them to install the MSR braces. First ride out I smushed the left one.
ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412336917.180834.jpg

When you install the ECU make sure you have a safety Torx set ready. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337273.080883.jpg move this hose out if the way.
ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337362.030915.jpg unclip the wire holder and move the wire out of your way. ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337464.047306.jpg
There is it is. The little black nubbin on the bottom of the throttle body.

I did it this way and it allowed me to leave the throttle body in place without moving it. In 15 minutes you double the horsepower!

I'm sure someone will chime in about the lean condition but there is a tuner map designed to run better with an aftermarket pipe so FWIW I'd go ahead and fatten it up a little.

Mine popped when it was hot with clutch pulled in. You have to get ahold of the FI diag tool to fix that.

2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

Edited by revelc, October 03, 2014 - 04:05 AM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted October 03, 2014 - 11:24 AM

#5

If you are changing the exhaust at the same time, its easier to get at the security torx from the kickstarter side.

 

We did one in my garage last night.

 

Remove the muffler.

Remove the header pipe.

Disconnect the engine coolant sensor.

Disconnect the breather hoses.

Remove the clutch cable bracket. (1 bolt)

Really good access.   If you want even better access, crack the clamps on the FI body and rotate it a bit.  It only goes about 15 degrees before it stops, but it helps.

 

The security torx we used (27) was a tight fit into the screw.  Had to lever it a bit to get it to seat properly.

 

Hope this helps.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, October 03, 2014 - 11:42 AM.


  • revelc

Posted October 03, 2014 - 02:27 PM

#6

If you are changing the exhaust at the same time, its easier to get at the security torx from the kickstarter side.

We did one in my garage last night.

Remove the muffler.
Remove the header pipe.
Disconnect the engine coolant sensor.
Disconnect the breather hoses.
Remove the clutch cable bracket. (1 bolt)
Really good access. If you want even better access, crack the clamps on the FI body and rotate it a bit. It only goes about 15 degrees before it stops, but it helps.

The security torx we used (27) was a tight fit into the screw. Had to lever it a bit to get it to seat properly.

Hope this helps.

Always more than one way to skin a cat. I was able to do it with a 1/4 ratchet and torx socket to break it loose then spun it out with my fingers.

If you have big hands like me it might be easier to do it his way. I am a mechanic so I'm used to working in confined spaces and removing as few parts as possible ;)


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

Edited by revelc, October 03, 2014 - 02:28 PM.


  • GP1K

Posted October 03, 2014 - 02:42 PM

#7

Alright, good to know. I've always had motocross bikes till this one. I had no idea they came so restricted. I mean, I had read about it but damn... I want it to run good and strong, but not to lean. I paid pretty much top dollar for this one used, but it's completely stock except for the dealership ship installed street legal kit and supposedly has between 3 and 5 hours on it. It looks brand new... That won't last but a ride. I've got the computing ecu and some Unabiker radiator braces coming. Never used those braces before, but they look good and it sounds like they really hold up. I'm trying to be smart this time around and put radiator braces on my radiator before it's bent. Hopefully that makes the install a little easier. Is it at all possible to have the bike run to lean being fuel injected?

 

It absolutely does. I made that mistake with my DRZ400, and the one side it had been down on was a total PITA to install, even though it looked straight, it wasn't. I installed the rad guards (also Unabiker, on both bikes) right away and they went on no problem. Unabiker makes good stuff, got em on both my bikes.



  • vlxjim

Posted October 03, 2014 - 03:41 PM

#8

It will run fine with the stock map in the comp ECU. It just runs a little hot, pops a little and is hard to start for some.

You may look at bumping the CO to 10 -15. I run 15. This is the Fuel for the idle circuit. You can only adjust it with the FI diagnostic tool. So guys on here will rent you one for a week. This well make the bike start better and run cooler as well as blend into the low end side of the maps better. This is not the Yamaha Power programer.

Now with the Yamaha Power programer you can fine tune the power for the type of riding that you do. If your out for power and like a hard hit the FMF map would work for you. If you want the power but need less hit and more control down low My vlxjim map is very good. you could also try the ausie map


Edited by vlxjim, October 03, 2014 - 03:42 PM.


  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 09:46 PM

#9

I know what you mean. My WR250R had more power than the stock WR450F.
A buddy would leave me in the dust on his XR400R before the ECU. After that everyone complained about my roost and not waiting up.
Definitely do the radiator guards first. I didn't install mine right away because it involved draining the coolant and removing them to install the MSR braces. First ride out I smushed the left one.
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412336917.180834.jpg
When you install the ECU make sure you have a safety Torx set ready. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337273.080883.jpg move this hose out if the way.
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337362.030915.jpg unclip the wire holder and move the wire out of your way. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337464.047306.jpg
There is it is. The little black nubbin on the bottom of the throttle body.
I did it this way and it allowed me to leave the throttle body in place without moving it. In 15 minutes you double the horsepower!
I'm sure someone will chime in about the lean condition but there is a tuner map designed to run better with an aftermarket pipe so FWIW I'd go ahead and fatten it up a little.
Mine popped when it was hot with clutch pulled in. You have to get ahold of the FI diag tool to fix that.
2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen


Thanks Revelc. I appreciate the pics. I'm going to have to go buy a safety torx set I guess. Not really a tool anyone really often uses... This will be the first bike I hope to put radiation braces on before it's been wrecked. I decided not to put any on my YZ 125 back when I was racing, since I was trying to cut weight anywhere I could. I had that radiator bent back and leaks fixed multiple times. The radiator was junk by the time I sold that bike. Then on my CR250 I had moose braces on order and went out and wrecked pretty good. Thought the radiator was alright till I started putting my braces on and realized they wen on one side great and the other side was a pain and easily to tell I had bent it.

Yeah I definately want to have it dialed in and make sure it's not running to lean.

  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 09:51 PM

#10

If you are changing the exhaust at the same time, its easier to get at the security torx from the kickstarter side.
 
We did one in my garage last night.
 
Remove the muffler.
Remove the header pipe.
Disconnect the engine coolant sensor.
Disconnect the breather hoses.
Remove the clutch cable bracket. (1 bolt)
Really good access.   If you want even better access, crack the clamps on the FI body and rotate it a bit.  It only goes about 15 degrees before it stops, but it helps.
 
The security torx we used (27) was a tight fit into the screw.  Had to lever it a bit to get it to seat properly.
 
Hope this helps.


Thanks,

I want to get an exhaust right away but I don't think I will. I need to save up a few pay checks before I do that. I shouldn't have spent so much money on the gf's birthday! That does help though. It can't be to hard to pull of the exhaust and header. I will probably take off the stock exhaust to at least took out the pee shooter as I guess people call it. I have read of a few people cutting it down and shortening it. I'm going to look into that too.

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  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 09:57 PM

#11

It absolutely does. I made that mistake with my DRZ400, and the one side it had been down on was a total PITA to install, even though it looked straight, it wasn't. I installed the rad guards (also Unabiker, on both bikes) right away and they went on no problem. Unabiker makes good stuff, got em on both my bikes.


Cool, good to know. I was trying to research if the Unabiker guards blocked too much airflow, but I have read nothing but good things about them. I was happy with my moose ones on a previous bike. Held up well, but I like how the Unabiker ones protect the front. My old man has an 06 WR450F that runs amazing. He's a mechanic, and has that thing dialed in. Between that and his CR500, I can't let him ever get in front of me or I eat way too much roost. I'm pretty sure that's how the front of my radiator was a bent up. I need my WR to at least run as well as his.

  • revelc

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:01 PM

#12

Thanks,

I want to get an exhaust right away but I don't think I will. I need to save up a few pay checks before I do that. I shouldn't have spent so much money on the gf's birthday! That does help though. It can't be to hard to pull of the exhaust and header. I will probably take off the stock exhaust to at least took out the pee shooter as I guess people call it. I have read of a few people cutting it down and shortening it. I'm going to look into that too.


You don't have to remove the muffler for that. You remove the end cap and there will be 4 Allen head screws. Remove them and the peashooter comes off. You can also remove the spark arrestor at this time of you feel inclined to do so.

If you mean modifying the pipe you can drill holes in the mufflers innards by following the same steps above. With the spark arrestor out you can see into the chamber. It's so restricted it should be a crime. EPA can eat my dingleberries.

I put a Yoshi on mine because it directed the exhaust out to the side so it wouldn't melt lights if I ever dual sported it. It also sounded great. But you can always fiddle with the stock pipe first and some have gotten good results out of it.


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:04 PM

#13

It will run fine with the stock map in the comp ECU. It just runs a little hot, pops a little and is hard to start for some.
You may look at bumping the CO to 10 -15. I run 15. This is the Fuel for the idle circuit. You can only adjust it with the FI diagnostic tool. So guys on here will rent you one for a week. This well make the bike start better and run cooler as well as blend into the low end side of the maps better. This is not the Yamaha Power programer.
Now with the Yamaha Power programer you can fine tune the power for the type of riding that you do. If your out for power and like a hard hit the FMF map would work for you. If you want the power but need less hit and more control down low My vlxjim map is very good. you could also try the ausie map.


Alright, i wonder If I can talk the Yamaha shop here into doing that for me. Not to sound to much like a newbie here, but what does "CO" stand for? I might eventually get the Yamaha Power programmer, just can't right now. I've spent to much money lately. Shouldn't have bought the bike financially but the weather is getting way to nice to go another year without. I just can't wait to get home and get working on it and go riding. Been way to long since I've owned a dirt bike.

  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:17 PM

#14

You don't have to remove the muffler for that. You remove the end cap and there will be 4 Allen head screws. Remove them and the peashooter comes off. You can also remove the spark arrestor at this time of you feel inclined to do so.
If you mean modifying the pipe you can drill holes in the mufflers innards by following the same steps above. With the spark arrestor out you can see into the chamber. It's so restricted it should be a crime. EPA can eat my dingleberries.
I put a Yoshi on mine because it directed the exhaust out to the side so it wouldn't melt lights if I ever dual sported it. It also sounded great. But you can always fiddle with the stock pipe first and some have gotten good results out of it.
2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

Alright, yeah the one I just got already has a street legal kit on it. It was done by the dealership before the original owner took it home. It looks like they did a very good job. Looks clean. I had no idea they came so restrictive. I was reading a thread somewhere where someone had cut down the exhaust but I'm not sure I want to do that. I want it to sound good but not to loud. Is there any advantage in removing the spark arrestor in your opinion? What are people using a grinder for? And drilling out rivets? I might be able to figure that out pretty quick when I actually see my bike. I bought it and went out of town for work the following day.

Edited by Cade_702, October 04, 2014 - 10:24 PM.


  • revelc

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:23 PM

#15

Alright, yeah the one I just got already has a street legal kit on it. It was done by the dealership before the dealer took it home. It looks like they did a very good job. Looks clean. I had no idea they came so restrictive. I was reading a thread somewhere where someone had cut down the exhaust but I'm not sure I want to do that. I want it to sound good but not to loud. Is there any advantage in removing the spark arrestor in your opinion? What are people using a grinder for? And drilling out rivets? I might be able to figure that out pretty quick when I actually see my bike. I bought it and went out of town for work the following day.

I'd consider a Yoshi RS4 when you have money so it doesn't burn your blinker up.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412490055.063160.jpg

Here are the first two things I removed. The peashooter is inside of that thing I'm holding. I just took it all off and left the spark arrester on. The other thing is the snorkel.


You must borrow or rent the Yamaha FI tool to adjust CO (carbon monoxide). It will start easier, run cooler, and pop less with it bumped up. The programmer is a different tool altogether.

Edited potato.

2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

Edited by revelc, October 04, 2014 - 10:27 PM.


  • Cade_702

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:29 PM

#16

I'd consider a Yoshi RS4 when you have money so it doesn't burn your blinker up.
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412490055.063160.jpg
Here are the first two things I removed. The peashooter is inside of that thing I'm holding. I just took it all off and left the spark arrester on. The other thing is the snorkel.
You must borrow or rent the Yamaha FI tool to adjust CO (carbon monoxide). It will start easier, run cooler, and pop less with it numbed up. The programmer is a different tool altogether.
2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen


Alright, I'll look into that one. Everyone removes the snorkel. I don't really see how it is restrictive, although I have only seen it in pictures. I get home tomorrow and going to start working on it. My ecu showed up as well. So my bike will hopefully not be a complete turd soon.

  • revelc

Posted October 04, 2014 - 10:37 PM

#17

Alright, I'll look into that one. Everyone removes the snorkel. I don't really see how it is restrictive, although I have only seen it in pictures. I get home tomorrow and going to start working on it. My ecu showed up as well. So my bike will hopefully not be a complete turd soon.


I can tell you are really excited.
Spend the time to tear it down. Lube axles, bearings, and chain, set sag, install ecu and throttle screw, remove peashooter, and take it around the block when you are done. You would need a psych eval if you aren't smiling like a kid.

Night and day. I promise. I felt the same way you did.

After you ride it around the block once do it again for me. Mine was stolen 4 weeks ago and not riding is killing me.


2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen

  • Cade_702

Posted October 05, 2014 - 11:56 PM

#18

I can tell you are really excited.
Spend the time to tear it down. Lube axles, bearings, and chain, set sag, install ecu and throttle screw, remove peashooter, and take it around the block when you are done. You would need a psych eval if you aren't smiling like a kid.
Night and day. I promise. I felt the same way you did.
After you ride it around the block once do it again for me. Mine was stolen 4 weeks ago and not riding is killing me.
2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen


I am. Haha. Man, I'm sorry to hear yours was stolen. That's so messed up. I hope the guy who stole it wrecks and castrates himself! Any kind of insurance on it or anything? I worked as a salesman at a Yamaha shop for a year back in 07. I was amazed at how many people came in saying their bike or quad had been stolen. I know it's a big problem here in Vegas, specially on sport bikes.

Well by the time I got home, I took the exhaust tip off and removed just the inner pee shooter. Digging into it more tomorrow. I'll ride a wheelie around the block for you once I'm more satisfied with it. :-)

  • Cade_702

Posted October 07, 2014 - 12:12 AM

#19

I know what you mean. My WR250R had more power than the stock WR450F.
A buddy would leave me in the dust on his XR400R before the ECU. After that everyone complained about my roost and not waiting up.
Definitely do the radiator guards first. I didn't install mine right away because it involved draining the coolant and removing them to install the MSR braces. First ride out I smushed the left one.
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412336917.180834.jpg
When you install the ECU make sure you have a safety Torx set ready. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337273.080883.jpg move this hose out if the way.
attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337362.030915.jpg unclip the wire holder and move the wire out of your way. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1412337464.047306.jpg
There is it is. The little black nubbin on the bottom of the throttle body.
I did it this way and it allowed me to leave the throttle body in place without moving it. In 15 minutes you double the horsepower!
I'm sure someone will chime in about the lean condition but there is a tuner map designed to run better with an aftermarket pipe so FWIW I'd go ahead and fatten it up a little.
Mine popped when it was hot with clutch pulled in. You have to get ahold of the FI diag tool to fix that.
2014 WRR-R.I.Pieces
2012 WR450F-Stolen


Thanks for this! I'd read a few write ups on how to do this. This had to be the easiest way. Well maybe not easiest, but having to disassemble the least. It would have only taken me about fifteen minutes if I hadn't dropped my small screw I was putting in and looked for it for 30 minutes. I have done everything to de cork my bike except for take the snorkel out, which I'm not sure I'll do that. I'm curious on how, if any restrictive it really is.

Well, I'm much more happy with the bike. Power feels smooth and pretty powerful. I still don't think it has quite the punch my 05 yz456f had. I rode it like I stole it around the neighborhood for about ten minutes. It felt good.

I'm going to try and get the dealer ship to up the CO for me tomorrow and eventually get one of those map programmer things.

Pics to follow.

Thanks again.

Edited by Cade_702, October 07, 2014 - 12:14 AM.


  • Kurt_89

Posted October 30, 2014 - 08:00 PM

#20

Hey Cade my names Kurt I got a new 2013 wr450.




 
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