My WR400 1999 jetting



17 replies to this topic
  • Bagwell

Posted January 29, 2004 - 10:27 PM

#1

I have a 1999 WR400 with exhaust insert removed most of the time, and airbox lid removed. I am wondering a few things. I bought this in the current condition it is in, and wanted to resolve an idle hang it had coming off of reving it. I pulled the carb and cleaned it, cleaned the accl pump and replaced the accl pump diaphragm since it had a pin hole in it. I noticed the Main Jet was a 168, Pilot Jet was a 48 and the Jet Needle was an EKN ( I think) with the clip 2nd position. I dont know anything about the ENK Jet Needle, and realize the pilot jet is probably one size larger than stock, but am not sure if I need this current state of tune. I have not reinstalled the carb yet to see how it operates, but wanted to check with yall on these settings. I live in SE Texas usually always sea level or close to it, and typically mid to high humidity, temperatures range from 20 to 100 deg F. I ride around here mostly, but will from time to time go to Colorado, New Mexico, W Texas, etc. and wonder what the best settings are for me.

ALso wondered about the gray wire. Is there any gray wire on a 99 WR400? If so, where is it so I can connect it back the way it was? I am not sure I need much better than a stock state of tune, but if I return to stock I will need a stock Pilot Jet, and stock Jet Needle.

Sorry so long a post, and thanks for any help in advance.
Thanks,
Bagwell

  • MN_Kevin

Posted January 30, 2004 - 05:11 AM

#2

Our carbs, stock, are not a total disaster...at least the bike did run!

Your performance will benefit w/ either the Taffy Mod or my KL mod done to your accelerator pump. Stock, your AP squirts waaaaaay too much fuel. The 2K and newer bikes use the BK mod. Since our carbs are different, a different repair is done.

Use the search feature >> Taffy Mod. Taffy's mod is less intrusive than mine. There MAY be a possibility that his mod is more prone to dirt intrusion than mine however.

As for the blue wire and gray wire mods, I personally cannot imagine why you would want to re-connect the wires...??? :)

Bill, our Senoir Moderator, can supply you w/ his jetting specs (I also think it is in his signature...???)

Do a search. If you need more help....JUST HOLLER!! :D

  • Bagwell

Posted January 31, 2004 - 05:27 PM

#3

No other responses? I find it hard to find things and to follow threads here since you have to go thru the lists to find the threads you were following.
Thanks for the reply.
Bagwell

  • Bill

Posted January 31, 2004 - 06:54 PM

#4

Bagwell,

Try yz timing and install the jetting in my sig and you won't believe the power.

Bill :)

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted January 31, 2004 - 08:05 PM

#5

Sounds like your the second owner. The 99 WR came with a DTM needle. The EKN needle is a very good needle. It would prefer YZ timing. The needle is too far down into that main jet, the 48 pilot should be used with a 100paj, it may still have the 75paj that came stock which would put the mixture out of balance. Try a 42 or 45 pilot jet with a 75 pilot air jet. Raise the EKN to clip 3 or 4 (try both)Or better yet get the JD jetting kit along with a 45 pilot and go ride :)

  • Bagwell

Posted February 01, 2004 - 11:51 AM

#6

ok, I will try more stuff.
Thanks guys,
Bagwell

  • MOmilkman

Posted February 04, 2004 - 05:14 AM

#7

bagwell, I went with Bill's settings and it worked wonders for my bike!

I dont think anyone with a 99 WR wouldnt love it!

  • Bill

Posted February 05, 2004 - 02:07 PM

#8

Darin,

Did you get a super trick, not available to the public needle (EEM) :) :D......think you have a typo dude :D

Bill

  • MOmilkman

Posted February 06, 2004 - 06:36 AM

#9

Darin,

Did you get a super trick, not available to the public needle (EEM) :) :D......think you have a typo dude :D

Bill


:D

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • MN_Kevin

Posted February 06, 2004 - 09:32 AM

#10

Darin,
You should've told Bill YES!! :)

(You and Dr. D have been secretly working on the EEM needle!! :D)

  • MOmilkman

Posted February 06, 2004 - 01:10 PM

#11

Yes Bill.

Doug Dubach and I have been working on this new tapered needle. (EEM)

You should try it when we are finished.

As a matter of fact, go ahead and call Dooug and order one up. :D

(thanks Kev :) )

  • Bill

Posted February 06, 2004 - 04:08 PM

#12

Darin,
You should've told Bill YES!! :D

(You and Dr. D have been secretly working on the EEM needle!! :D)


Darin,

You probably should have. I would have killed myself trying to get one and ask taffy about it's performance potential :D Just so I could have some more hp I can't use because the thing is so dang fast already :D :)

Bill

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted February 06, 2004 - 04:44 PM

#13

OK, here's my jetting if anyone cares:
I ride mainly within 300 feet of sea level and right now average riding temp is around 75° F. My bike is YZ timed and has a stock muffler with a GYT-R insert.
35 pj, 60 sj, 165 mj, DTN needle (1 needle leaner than stock), clip no 3, 45 paj screw, 160 maj, fuel screw 2 turns out, 1/2 second ap squirt. Before I put in the GYT-R insert, I had the stock needle on clip position 3 or 4 depending on temperature.

You might look at my needle and think I'm crazy but it is very obvious when the needle isn't right on this bike.

This bike runs like a scalded ape. This past weekend, I drag raced a KTM 520 exc and a hot rodded XR650 and had a wheel in front of them up to about 50 mph when they started to pull ahead. I was happy with that and could have been better but I goofed up the shift into 5th. :)

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted February 06, 2004 - 05:29 PM

#14

OK, here's my jetting if anyone cares:
I ride mainly within 300 feet of sea level and right now average riding temp is around 75° F. My bike is YZ timed and has a stock muffler with a GYT-R insert.
35 pj, 60 sj, 165 mj, DTN needle (1 needle leaner than stock), clip no 3, 45 paj screw, 160 maj, fuel screw 2 turns out, 1/2 second ap squirt. Before I put in the GYT-R insert, I had the stock needle on clip position 3 or 4 depending on temperature.

You might look at my needle and think I'm crazy but it is very obvious when the needle isn't right on this bike.



How does the bike start? I would think the fat needle and small main would cause a hard starting bike. I just about gave up on the E needle and thought about trying a D taper, but ordered JD's instead :)

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted February 07, 2004 - 01:21 AM

#15

Starts 1st kick almost every time. Except when it's cold (as in first start of the day) and then it may take two or three kicks.

This jetting is on Taffy's advice. When I first got this bike, the jetting was 180 mj, DTM needle, 48 pj, 200 maj, 75 paj and a looooong ap squirt. It would foul plugs left and right and would run out of steam at full throttle. I always had the damn seat and tank off trying to figure out why it wouldn't start or run right. So, I kept going leaner until I'm where it's at right now and it runs great. It's been this way (except for the GYT-R insert and seasonal changes) for about 2 years.

  • Taffy

Posted February 26, 2004 - 01:40 PM

#16

hi rich

i often said the 'N' straight might be a tidge better. now i've mucked with P, R and now Q (in the middle) on the husey, i know that the N would have been sweeter on the WR.

good to see so many of you still around and that you kept the faith. all those hours weren't for nothing!

keep it boys!

Taffy

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted February 26, 2004 - 03:51 PM

#17

Nice to see your still around Taffy, by the way I run a 38pj :)

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted February 26, 2004 - 05:39 PM

#18

Hey Taffy,

Yep, I'm still keeping the faith. Without your advice I'm sure I would have spent many more countless hours messing with the jetting and fouling plugs. I spend a lot more time riding now as opposed to tinkering with the carb ever since I got the jetting right.

There was an '01 YZ426 carb for sale on eBay recently that I was interested in and I was wondering how I would jet it if I won the bidding. But the price got to $265 which was more than I was willing to pay. Still a good price, though. Those FCR2 carbs are a much cleaner design than the first generation FCRs.




 
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