best engine oil



15 replies to this topic
  • flyinmonkey

Posted January 26, 2002 - 03:27 AM

#1

I just bought a 2002 yz426 and would like to know what kind of engine oil the forum uses in their bikes. I also have a wr400 and have been using Belray exp oil but im not sure thats the best stuff to use.

  • h_bomb

Posted January 26, 2002 - 04:00 AM

#2

I use yamaha 4r 10w-50 semi synthetic,thats what DR D recomended. :)

  • RichB

Posted January 26, 2002 - 05:12 AM

#3

Dude, this has been beat to death on the board. Suggest you just do a search and spend the couple of hours reading what everyone has to say and then make your decision.

  • humbertob

Posted January 26, 2002 - 04:56 PM

#4

No doubt on this, Use MOTUL 5100 Ester and your bike will thank you all it's life ! I'm using it in my '99 YZ400F and the results are awesome, it's a very clean running oil, somewhat expensive but it really pays itself! You must know that car engineered oils are very different than Motorcycle engineered oils, the last ones are engineered to lubricate not only a piston, rings, etc. they lubricate the transmission gears as well, so don't use car oil in your thumper, you can use whatever brand you choose of motorcycle oil, but stay away from any car oil.

Hope this help guy ! :)

  • DOC

Posted January 26, 2002 - 05:10 PM

#5

i totally agree with that. the problem is Motul is damn expensive, and i can't really afford it.
For almost half the price, i use Mobil 1 4T fully synthetic bike oil, and it is excellent. The inside of my engine is immaculate - super clean. Mobil 1 car oil has a fantastic reputation, and that is why i use Mobil. Have a look at their web site, and Motuls page.
If i had the money, i would use Motul fully synthetic (not sure if it is 5100. think that is semi-synthetic), but here it is around $80 for 4 litres, and Mobil 1 4T is $45 for 4 litres. (AUS dollars)
But either way, you should really use a true fully synthetic oil if you want the 'best'. The difference between a mineral and quality synthetic is a quantum leap. The best analogy is 'like comparing carburettors to EFI'.
Do a search. i have discussed the difference in viscosity ratings somewhere here before.

[ January 26, 2002: Message edited by: DOC ]

  • RichB

Posted January 26, 2002 - 08:17 PM

#6

Humbertob - With all due respect all anyone needs to do is buy a car oil that is not "engergy conserving" that is, it does not contain friction modifiers. I did a lot of research into oils and from what I could gather the whole "motorcycle oil that's has special additives for the tranny thing is snake oil".

There's no doubt that the oil you're using is a great product but there's a bunch of guys around in the crotch rocket and YZF circles that have been using car oils for years. A lot of folks use Mobil 1 15w-50 which is a car oil. The "car oil" I use is rated by Caterpiller, Allision, and Cummings for transmissions.

The bottom line is use whatever you feel comfortable with. However, there's just too many people around that have been using non-motorcycle oil for years with no problems to say they're bad so therefore you need to go out and buy $7 a quart motorcycle oil. Again, the motorcycle oils are good oils, but if you take the time to get the raw data from the oil companies you'll be shocked at where some of the expensive motorcycle oils stack up against a common car product.

Respectfully,

RichB

  • therapture

Posted January 27, 2002 - 02:53 AM

#7

Amen to RichB....And "car oils", they ARE designed for "gears and other stuff". Just what do you think lubricates cam gears, oil pumps drives, distributor gears, etc. in a car? I have ALWAYS used "car" oils in my bikes and NEVER have had an oil related failure (just don't forget to put oil in it!) in all 14 years of riding. Even back in the 2-smoke days I would use "boat motor" oil as premix material in a pinch (ok maybe a bit more often hehe) and they work fine.

I am not saying that expensive "motorcycle oil" is a waste of cash, but if you used say, Castrol 10w30 or even 20w50 in your stroker and change it like you are supposed to then you would NOT have any problems, clutch, engine, gears, or otherwise. :)

Now don't go and use some crap in the plain yellow bottle that says "Texas Star Oil" or anything like that, just use a name brand, certified engine oil and change it according to your usage schedule, and you will be fine for years....!

  • sirthumpalot

Posted January 27, 2002 - 03:06 AM

#8

I emailed Spectro about a label on their bottles once. Below is their reply (and my original email under that). Hope this is informative. I personally think that any name brand bike oil will be OK; more importantly just be sure to change it frequently.

-----

Thanks for your e-mail!

Your observation is correct...here is a short explanation of the situation.
After the API SG period, the API made some changes to the limits on
additives that we, as a motorcycle oil manufacturer did not agree with, for
implementation during the SH period. These restrictions became more intense,
and fuel efficiency tests became more difficult to pass for SJ approval and
manufacturers were forced to use lighter oils and friction modifiers to meet
the new SJ fuel efficiency tests.
We decided to halt placing the API symbol on our products since this would
mean we would have to limit our formulations to meet these new automotive
derived needs. Further, we decided to continue to produce the SF/SG
formulation that we always made since we know that it is superior for
motorcycles.(and this has been confirmed by almost all motorcycle
manufacturers worldwide by their broad recommendation to use SF/SG oils in
their bikes.)
For a while, the API refused to allow even this SF/SG designation to be
placed on a label! Their reasoning was that it was not their current rating.
They then realized the reason we were doing it and then allowed SF/SG to be
put on the label without their "donut" logo since our oil is primarily
recommended for use in motorcycles.
Now, if your engine manufacturer requires API SH, we meet and pass all those
tests too. Except,we do have anti-wear additives in our oil that are over
the limit for the SH requirements but we are very confident that
recommending our oils for you with these extra additives is the right
recommendation for a motorcycle application.
Our full synthetic race oils do not exceed the upper limit levels of these
SH anti-wear additive restrictions and therefore have the API SH on the
labels.
If you need any further information regarding our labeling and API
qualifications, feel free to call us toll free at 1-800-243-8645..ask for
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt W
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2001 8:51 PM
To: spectro@snet.net
Subject: bottle labels accurate?


I have purchased some of your "Golden Spectro 4" synthetic blend oil. The
label on the bottle has it marked as sf/sg but your web site says that it is
good for sh applications. Is the label inaccurate or is the error on your
web site?

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  • yz454

Posted January 27, 2002 - 06:59 AM

#9

RichB is right, I have been using racing valvoline for many years.All in race motors and it has been at the top in every oil test done.

  • RichB

Posted January 27, 2002 - 04:49 PM

#10

yz454, is that the VR1 you're using?

  • yz454

Posted January 28, 2002 - 06:09 PM

#11

Yes it is the vr1 racing,depending at time of year it is I will run 40 or 50 w.

  • yzernie

Posted January 29, 2002 - 05:47 AM

#12

Originally posted by yz454:
Yes it is the vr1 racing,depending at time of year it is I will run 40 or 50 w.


I have used Yamalube 20W-40 since I first started with the YZ-F's at the end of 97. I have never had any oil related problems. I must say that I am pretty anal about oil and filter changes.

I have been looking real hard at the VR1 oils. The only thing that keeps me from trying it out is that with my discount the Yamalube is cheaper. I have never seen the VR1 oils on sale. YZ454, Where do you buy yours.....and do you get it for cheaper than shelf price?? Can it even be found cheaper than an auto parts store??

Ernie

  • yz454

Posted January 29, 2002 - 05:19 PM

#13

Around he I get at GIjoes some times under 2$$ a QT.I all ways try buy a case a time.

  • yz454

Posted January 29, 2002 - 05:22 PM

#14

Sorry for the miss spell guys.

  • crf450#73

Posted January 31, 2002 - 09:41 AM

#15

I have used amsoil sythetic for many years and have greatly benifited from it's superior performance. In my crf I'm running there 10W-40 motorcycle oil in both the engine and the gearbox. Check out there website amsoil.com they give all sorts of info test and comparisons.

  • txthumper

Posted February 01, 2002 - 03:22 AM

#16

mobil 1 15-50 with red top..thats the only mobil 1 without friction modifiers...i have used car oils myself in the past but i also noticed the clutch would slip if using it alot, so i only use a non friction modified oil now...but yamalube is cheaper than mobil 1..only reason i dont use it is because me and the yamaha dealer dont get along!!...so i use the mobil 1...i know i could go a full race season on my 2 smoker on i clutch with mobil 1, must be good stuff!! hope it works that well on my 426 :) :D





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