Reduce engine braking on 2012 WR450

Engine Clutch & Components STM Slipper Clutch

76 replies to this topic
  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted September 13, 2014 - 12:31 PM

#1

Is there a way to reduce the engine braking on the new FI WR450's?

 

I just picked up a 2012 WR450 to replace my old 2000 WR400. I like the new bike, except the engine braking is excessive. A lot worse than my old WR400.

 

Any advice?



  • RockerYZWR

Posted September 13, 2014 - 12:50 PM

#2

Uh oh.

  • mch

Posted September 13, 2014 - 12:55 PM

#3

I was pretty shocked not ever riding a 4 stroke dirt bike (went from an 04 CR250R to the 12 WR450F).  I thought the engine breaking was extreme too, but now I'm just used to it and it doesn't bother me in the least bit.  I know this doesn't answer your question, but I'm pretty sure you won't even think it  a bother in a while.



  • shrubitup

Posted September 13, 2014 - 12:58 PM

#4

Slipper clutch if you must

  • Spud786

Posted September 13, 2014 - 01:07 PM

#5

Ive found that on 4 stroke singles ,If you open up the exhaust some what, the brakes will get weaker, that's the first sign of reduced engine braking. Course you had zero engine braking with that CR, so its a jump, but you can learn to use it as a tool.


Edited by Spud786, September 13, 2014 - 01:09 PM.


  • woods-rider

Posted September 13, 2014 - 01:37 PM

#6

Ride a gear high.

  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted September 13, 2014 - 05:44 PM

#7

I've adjusted the idle "CO" setting from 0 to 7. I'm hoping it'll help. At the very least I hope it helps the bike start when it's hot. Currently when the bike is really hot it has trouble restarting. usually I'll give it a little throttle to start it up when hot, but I'm hoping the "CO" adjustment will fix this and maybe reduce engine braking.



  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:00 PM

#8

You can always raise the idle a little bit... or, clutch when you back off the throttle... or don't back off the throttle and use the clutch to reduce speed like you'd do on a two stroke.

 

I guess I'm saying that you should ride differently.



  • GP1K

Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:02 PM

#9

Adjust the CO level and idle to spec (1900-2100rpm) is a must. You can tune the FI mapping to reduce it from there.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:13 PM

#10

Ride a gear high.

 

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map, and ride one or two gear higher.

 

I do this on my carb'd bikes and it works great. 



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  • Falcon 1

Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:14 PM

#11

The Hinson BTL Slipper clutch will eliminate excessive engine braking and wheel hop going into tight turns/berms... makes the 4 stroke feel very similar to riding a 2 stroke. Gives it that free-wheeling effect when you chop the throttle... 

 

Cheers

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  • avlisj

Posted September 13, 2014 - 07:57 PM

#12

Clutch
When it's pulled the bike just coasts

  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted September 13, 2014 - 08:21 PM

#13

Get the mapping/jetting very crisp at off-idle, use the most agressive ignition map...

 

Krannie, what do you mean map for crisp off-idle and most aggressive map?

 

 

The map I currently have is "quick revving in mid to top rpm range":

Fuel    +1   +1   +1     Ignition     +1   +3   +4

           +3   +2   +1                      +2   +2   +2

           +3   +3   +1                      +2   +1   +1

 

Would a different map help? I'll see if upping the CO setting helps.

 

I thought I read that you can use the FI diagnostic tool to reduce the engine braking, but I wasn't able to find that thread.

 

I'd prefer not to have to clutch in excessively to fix a deficiency with the bike.



  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted September 13, 2014 - 08:41 PM

#14

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.



  • Juman5

Posted September 13, 2014 - 08:44 PM

#15

I only find the engine braking to be a problem in 1st as it's geared so low.  I'm running a richer map with a CO level of 8.  Stock exhaust, uncorked.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 13, 2014 - 08:59 PM

#16

Put an 08 YZ exhaust cam in it.   Runs way better in every other way too.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 13, 2014 - 09:02 PM.


  • cracker please

Posted September 14, 2014 - 03:42 AM

#17

After some googling. I'll try the "woods/tight trail" map to see about reducing the engine braking. Hopefully it doesn't moot the power too much, I like the power delivery the way it currently is. It's just when I chop the throttle at slower speeds.

 

If you don't like the woods map, maybe use your old map but bump the ignition numbers up a little in the bottom row.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted September 14, 2014 - 04:19 AM

#18

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts



  • Spiritwalker2222

Posted September 14, 2014 - 04:54 AM

#19

It looks like you have it set up right, but have you calibrated the TPS

It needs to be re -set after break in.

You can merely change the TPS output voltage for an immediate change in response

I don't know the exact voltage, but the service manual has the range, which is .6 to.7 volts

 

How do I calibrate the TPS sensor?



  • cracker please

Posted September 14, 2014 - 05:36 AM

#20

It's mode D:01 on the diagnostic tool.  With the throttle closed, it should be in the range of 9-16.  Mine was 11.  There's 2 T25 screws holding the TPS on.  You can rotate it slightly to change the reading.  It's in the fuel system chapter of the manual.







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