Magura hydraulic clutch

Control Hydraulic Clutches

62 replies to this topic
  • GP1K

Posted September 12, 2014 - 07:39 PM

#41

For a bike that did not come with a slave sylinder this is a band aid, best save your money and re-route the cable and lube. Put your bike on a stand and rotate the bar's, you  can see and feel where it binds.

 

It's not a cable routing issue. While I agree it's not like a KTM with a built-in slave cylinder (I have one) it is still MUCH improved over stock. The pull is much lighter, the engagement better and it doesn't fade or need adjusting while riding. Well worth it IMO.

 

There is always the rekluse option though.



  • stevethe

Posted September 13, 2014 - 06:30 AM

#42

It's not a cable routing issue. While I agree it's not like a KTM with a built-in slave cylinder (I have one) it is still MUCH improved over stock. The pull is much lighter, the engagement better and it doesn't fade or need adjusting while riding. Well worth it IMO.

 

There is always the rekluse option though.

 

Interesting, it is lighter. Is that with the newer smaller piston. The last one I felt an 08' didn't feel much lighter if at all. The one thing I could like is no more broken clutch cables. (I've been through quite a few) If one broke on a death march ride I could be in big trouble. Any one have a Magura break or leak.



  • huero

Posted October 29, 2014 - 10:42 AM

#43

Jd,
Did you get your magura installed?
Can you post pics of the bracket that magura is including now?
I am thinking about pulling the trigger on this.

Thanks,
Huero

  • mc1hd

Posted October 31, 2014 - 01:38 PM

#44

It's not a cable routing issue. While I agree it's not like a KTM with a built-in slave cylinder (I have one) it is still MUCH improved over stock. The pull is much lighter, the engagement better and it doesn't fade or need adjusting while riding. Well worth it IMO.

 

There is always the rekluse option though.

 

Most definately was a cable routing problem with mine.  Granted I did remove the computer and headlight, made a brakcket and installed a yz250f front number plate.  Lots more movent for the clutch cable with less binding.  Very noticable improvement.



  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 04:56 PM

#45

I just "tried" to install the Magura hydraulic clutch (bought it from RMATV) and I am having a few issues with it as it sounds like some others had as well. I am hoping you guys who have these installed and working well can shed some light on my issues.

 

First issue is lack of any free play at all. Using none of the washers and the supplied bracket I have no free play in the clutch arm. There are no washers in there to take out so I am not sure what I do to get more free play. I do have the supplied bushing in there though. Did you guys use this bushing?

 

This is the length with the lever out.

8C242B27-9AD4-4ED0-B645-7CF61C737181_zps

This same measurement with the lever pulled into the grip (lever position adjusted all the way out for maximum pull distance) is 28.34mm. So I am getting about 9mm of action at the slave. Is this what you guys are getting?

 

Here's the slave with the supplied bracket and the supplied bushing only.

49BADD4D-C5A5-4DD2-A575-FDE1D699BA4E_zps

 

What are these supplied washers for?

615AC824-08F1-41E8-8F1C-892F516830A2_zps

 

Second issue is that the line doesn't seem to be long enough. I have tried routing the line a few different ways on both sides of the motor (yes, I tried the stock routing) and I can't get the clutch perch anywhere close to the grip. The closest I can get it is about 3" away. It is not ridable like this. I do have a scotts sub mount so my bars are taller, but the stock line fit just fine with no issues.

 

 

 

It was also annoying that the slave bracket didn't fit with the capacitor bracket so I will have to relocate the capacitor.

 

C36230A4-9EE9-4674-A3C7-227C0D9D6C7D_zps

539C9F60-68D2-4A68-AB8C-B7C304ED04A0_zps

 

I actually cut a slot in the bracket so that it can work with the Magura slave bracket, but I need to get the Magura working correctly first before I clutter up the area with another bracket and capacitor.

 

Oh, and did yours come with a spot for the neutral safety switch in the clutch perch like the stock one has?


Edited by woods-rider, March 10, 2015 - 05:34 PM.


  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 05:45 PM

#46

I may have to correct myself on the clutch arm free play. I can pull the clutch arm out away from the motor with a bit of force. I am not sure if the return force is in the slave cylinder or in the clutch itself. I don't know if this qualifies as free play though because it does take some force to pull it out and is relaxes back to it's rest position on its own.

 

Measuring it in the same fashion that I measured the slave action, I can pull the clutch arm out away from the motor about 9mm. I am thinking that since this is the same distance as the slave action that maybe I am just forcing the slave piston in the wrong direction 9mm?



  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 05:48 PM

#47

Y

 

 

T

 

 

I

 

Hey guys, I am just trying to get your attention since it looks like you have gone through this already and figured quoting you guys would do the trick.


Edited by woods-rider, March 10, 2015 - 05:48 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted March 10, 2015 - 06:15 PM

#48

Here are a couple of photos. I just bent the capacitor bracket to allow it to be mounted in the same position. I didn't use the supplied spacers (used one i ad in my parts bin...sorry don't rememberth thickness. Just make sure you have the required amount of free play. Yes, that means pulling it out further which you have to do to get it mounted on the actuation arm. 45 degree neddle nose pliers work wonders for this.

 

Also, very important, make sure you have at least 1" clearance between the brake line and your exhaust pipe. I zip-tied the line to an existing bracket for clearance.

 

This is a fantastic mod! I'm using just one finger for clutch actuation now. Highly recommended.

 

02CGuyt.jpg

eCKeOCe.jpg


Edited by JDLowrance, March 10, 2015 - 06:19 PM.


  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:03 PM

#49

Here are a couple of photos. I just bent the capacitor bracket to allow it to be mounted in the same position. I didn't use the supplied spacers (used one i ad in my parts bin...sorry don't rememberth thickness. Just make sure you have the required amount of free play. Yes, that means pulling it out further which you have to do to get it mounted on the actuation arm. 45 degree neddle nose pliers work wonders for this.

 

Also, very important, make sure you have at least 1" clearance between the brake line and your exhaust pipe. I zip-tied the line to an existing bracket for clearance.

 

This is a fantastic mod! I'm using just one finger for clutch actuation now. Highly recommended.

 

02CGuyt.jpg

eCKeOCe.jpg

 

Great. Thanks for the big clear pics! So it sounds like I need to utilize that 9mm of "free" play that I have. I just tried using the supplied washer and it was not thick enough. Looks like I will need roughly three of that size washer to use up all of the free play I have. I'll pick up a few more tomorrow so I can play around with shimming the slave.

 

This would be so much easier if they just put a few hours into making bike specific installation instructions.

 

And holy hell your bike is CLEAN!


Edited by woods-rider, March 10, 2015 - 07:04 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:10 PM

#50

I agree better instructions would go along way to making this installation easier.....rest assured, all your effort will be worth while.

Bike is actually filfthy....

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  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:13 PM

#51

I agree better instructions would go along way to making this installation easier.....rest assured, all your effort will be worth while.

Bike is actually filfthy....

 

Right now the pill doesn't seem any lighter than stock to me... maybe riding it will feel different?

 

California dirt must be a bit different than Oregon mud... The pics I took above are after washing mine for 30 min with a pressure washer :thumbsdn:

 

Looking at your pictures a bit closer it doesn't look like you are using the bushing/sleeve provided either?

 

This one:

CE885E9F-8876-4E11-B904-56FA90C472CA_zps


Edited by woods-rider, March 10, 2015 - 07:19 PM.


  • JDLowrance

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:19 PM

#52

You dont want to use up all of the free play, there has to be some to allow for clutch plate expansion when it gets hot. If there is no free play the clutch gets hot and will slip. I can't remember how much is required....something 3-4mm. Should be in the general instructions that were provided with the kit.

Also, don't use the provided spacer you have in your picture. It does not allow the slave cylinder to self align. Use flat washers.
Cheers

Edited by JDLowrance, March 10, 2015 - 07:22 PM.


  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:22 PM

#53

You dont want to use up all of the free play, there has to be some to allow for clutch plate expansion when it gets hot. If there is no free play the clutch gets hot and will slip. I can't remember how much is required....something 3-4mm. Should be in the general instructions that were provided with the kit.

Cheers

 

Yeah, I won't use it all up, I am going to buy enough washers so that I can just to be sure I don't need to make another run to the hardware store for another washer. I think it says 4-6mm, But i have 9mm so I have some shimming to do.



  • JDLowrance

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:27 PM

#54

Sorry, you replied before I modded my post.

Magura rep told me not to use that bushing. It does not allow the slve cylinder to self align. Use flat spacers or washers like you are planning on.

  • woods-rider

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:36 PM

#55

Sorry, you replied before I modded my post.

Magura rep told me not to use that bushing. It does not allow the slve cylinder to self align. Use flat spacers or washers like you are planning on.

 

Gotcha. I was watching the slave as I actuated it with the lever and it looked like there may have been some binding, but it was hard to tell. Hopefully it was binding and removing this bushing will make the pull easier.



  • JDLowrance

Posted March 10, 2015 - 07:41 PM

#56

You are correct. That's exactly what is happening. And if left unchecked, the slave cylinder will wear out prematurely.

  • woods-rider

Posted March 11, 2015 - 05:41 AM

#57

You are correct. That's exactly what is happening. And if left unchecked, the slave cylinder will wear out prematurely.

 

Did you route the line the same way the stock cable was routed? If you did something different could you take some pics so that I can see how you did it? My line just seems like it's 3" or so too short to route the same way as the stock cable.



  • JDLowrance

Posted March 11, 2015 - 04:34 PM

#58

Same direction as stock. You can loosen the banjo bolt on the slave and turn the banjo to get a little additional distance.

  • sledhead999

Posted March 12, 2015 - 05:38 AM

#59

My stock clutch was a PITA to pull. The Magura works great when setup correctly. Fitment felt quite "universal" out of the box, and didn't fit well at all. Even adding their tuning washers for proper free length it was still a long ways off.

 

IMAG0166.jpg

 

After taking some measurements, I made my own delrin bushing, to set the free length and full travel of the slave cylinder correctly. One would think that the "slot" on the end of the rod would make it adjustable, threading it in/out to fine tune it. Sadly not so much :(

 

IMAG0168.jpg

 

IMAG0167.jpg



  • woods-rider

Posted March 12, 2015 - 06:51 AM

#60

I got it on all the way last night, buttoned it up and took it for a slow test drive in the back yard. Damn this thing is easy to pull! It didn't feel that much easier sitting on the stand with the motor off, but once it was running and I was riding it around the pull was easily a 1 finger job. Now I just need to put it through a real test ride, but sadly that probably won't happen for almost a month. I am busy this weekend and  then will be out of town on business for a few weeks so my first chance will likely be early April some time.

 

Thanks for the help guys and I hope I have no surprises about the clutch on my first rear ride when I'm 20 miles away from the truck. I may try and find a way to pack the cable and stock perch and lever for my first ride or two out with the hydro just in case.







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