Magura hydraulic clutch

Control Hydraulic Clutches

62 replies to this topic
  • GP1K

Posted September 08, 2014 - 01:24 PM

#21

Yeah I took some to send to the guy at magura. I'll find em and post up tonight.

  • JDLowrance

Posted September 08, 2014 - 04:20 PM

#22

Thanks man...appreciate it!



  • JDLowrance

Posted September 10, 2014 - 04:30 PM

#23

GP1K,

 

Any luck finding those photos?

 

Cheers



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 10, 2014 - 10:39 PM

#24

GP1K,

 

Any luck finding those photos?

 

Cheers

 

It figures that GP1K has got time to write tomes for replies to everything I post in my threads and then doesn't follow through to help you with a simple picture request.

 

I've got some poor pictures of my Magura install or I'll wash my bike this weekend and take some better ones.   What exactly did you need to see ?

 

FWIW, I did not remove my subframe, but I was blessed with not having a starter in that space either. 

 

Let me know if you need something and I'll see what I can do.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 10, 2014 - 10:39 PM.


  • GP1K

Posted September 11, 2014 - 11:40 AM

#25

GP1K,

 

Any luck finding those photos?

 

Cheers

 

I couldn't find the originals, might have deleted them as that was over a year ago now. I took a few new pics and went to post and forgot you can't just upload here, have to host somewhere first. I think I still have a photobucket account or something like that I can try to get em up after work tonight.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 11, 2014 - 12:01 PM

#26

This is the mount it came with.

DSC_1490.JPG

 

This was the hardware

DSC_1493.JPG

 

Here it is installed.

DSC_1495.JPG

 

Here's the story, IIRC. 

 

The nose of the slave cylinder is rounded so that the cylinder "pivots" easier so that the side load on the piston is reduced as it follows the arc of clutch arm.

 

The brass sleeve has a concave side on it.  Its supposed to fit into the bore of the mounting bracket.   However, when I did that the length of the sleeve caused problems rubbing on the rubber bellows on the assembly and it was limiting the "pivot" of the slave cylinder.   If you google these things, people have had the seal in teh slave fail because of side pressure exerted on it.   I wanted to avoid that, so I decided to forgo using that brass sleeve.

 

Once I got it mounted, 2 of us bled it.  Why 2 ?  One to hold the syringe and force fluid in, the other to work the clutch and close the bleed valve off.   It was a tricky but relatively easy process.   Better tools, ie a syringe that didn't need 2 hands to use and a line that actually stayed on the bleed valve, would have made the process WAY easier.

 

Don't worry about getting every last bit of air out, because it will work out as you use it.  As long as the clutch fully engages and disengages without too much drag, you can stop there.

 

As far as setting the free play, you can't see it, but there is a stack of small washers over the nose of the slave piston.  What I did was remove the slave, insert the washers, test and repeat until I could pull the clutch arm back about 1/16th of an inch, ie freeplay.  My clutch was relatively new then, so I needed every millimeter of slave clutch stroke to make it work.   Keep in mind that I have the 9.5mm master clutch cylinder, so the travel on my slave cylinder is less than if I had the 10mm master cylinder.   My clutch pull is also lighter.

 

When you get it all done, make sure that the slave cylinder isn't binding in any way, putting side pressure on the piston assembly.   That will cause them to fail.   That is why the nose on the slave cylinder is rounded, so that it can pivot.

 

I've used this setup for a year with zero issues.   I love the feel.

 

If you have any questions, ask.

 

Edit: there pictures were taken when I installed it, last fall.  I could get a shot of the washers behind the mount if you need it, but my bike is filthy from riding.   I'll have to clean it first and that won't happen until the weekend, at the earliest.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 11, 2014 - 02:09 PM.


  • GP1K

Posted September 11, 2014 - 12:01 PM

#27

It figures that GP1K has got time to write tomes for replies to everything I post in my threads and then doesn't follow through to help you with a simple picture request.

 

I've got some poor pictures of my Magura install or I'll wash my bike this weekend and take some better ones.   What exactly did you need to see ?

 

FWIW, I did not remove my subframe, but I was blessed with not having a starter in that space either. 

 

Let me know if you need something and I'll see what I can do.

 

Been super busy with work etc and haven't had time to host & post, which I need to do from a computer. I can reply to your asinine posts from my phone sitting on the john.

 

I have to say, it's been quite entertaining watching you make a fool of yourself regarding the FI system and your laughable ignorance on how it really works. And when people try to explain why you're wrong, you just dig in your heels and offer your 'proof' that your bike runs great... compared to what? All the propery mapped WRs you've ridden? Face it, you have NO frame of reference to make such claims. They are meaningless logical leaps with no basis in fact or measurable data.

 

Oh and I do still ride my WR, just not as much as before, thanks for asking. And it runs great, will climb any hill I point it at and wheelies with a whiff of throttle in 3rd gear, all with stock cams and 13/51 gearing. Pretty amazing, huh? You know what else my mapping did? Reduced the engine braking a LOT vs the stock all zeros crappy map. It really is pretty amazing just how much you can change the personality of these bikes in just seconds, on the trail side, via FI mapping. Try that with your cam swap.



  • GP1K

Posted September 11, 2014 - 12:06 PM

#28

GP1K,

 

Any luck finding those photos?

 

Cheers

 

Hey do MLCG's pics work for you? Looking at my pics, he's got more light on the subject on you can see the parts a lot better.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 11, 2014 - 01:07 PM

#29

Hey do MLCG's pics work for you? Looking at my pics, he's got more light on the subject on you can see the parts a lot better.

 

Fail !  Next thing you say is that you mounted it the same way.  LOL.

 

I'm calling you on your pics.   Where are they ?

 


I couldn't find the originals, might have deleted them as that was over a year ago now. I took a few new pics and went to post and forgot you can't just upload here, have to host somewhere first. I think I still have a photobucket account or something like that I can try to get em up after work tonight.

 

Can't upload here ??? Seems to work for me.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 11, 2014 - 02:06 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 11, 2014 - 01:20 PM

#30

Been super busy with work etc and haven't had time to host & post, which I need to do from a computer. I can reply to your asinine posts from my phone sitting on the john.

 

I have to say, it's been quite entertaining watching you make a fool of yourself regarding the FI system and your laughable ignorance on how it really works. And when people try to explain why you're wrong, you just dig in your heels and offer your 'proof' that your bike runs great... compared to what? All the propery mapped WRs you've ridden? Face it, you have NO frame of reference to make such claims. They are meaningless logical leaps with no basis in fact or measurable data.

 

Oh and I do still ride my WR, just not as much as before, thanks for asking. And it runs great, will climb any hill I point it at and wheelies with a whiff of throttle in 3rd gear, all with stock cams and 13/51 gearing. Pretty amazing, huh? You know what else my mapping did? Reduced the engine braking a LOT vs the stock all zeros crappy map. It really is pretty amazing just how much you can change the personality of these bikes in just seconds, on the trail side, via FI mapping. Try that with your cam swap.

 

Is this adding anything to the thread or are you running off at the mouth again ?

 

If you wanted to contribute something, you could have provided pictures.   That is the difference between TALKING and WALKING.

 

It doesn't take much to see which one you are better at.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 11, 2014 - 01:22 PM.


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  • GP1K

Posted September 11, 2014 - 04:31 PM

#31

Fail !  Next thing you say is that you mounted it the same way.  LOL.

 

I'm calling you on your pics.   Where are they ?

 

 

 

Can't upload here ??? Seems to work for me.

 

I was unaware there were multiple ways to mount it. It barely fits and was a huge PITA as it was. Please enlighten me to these multiple mounting options so I might choose which is best.

 

My pics are the same place your 'tight woods' ride vids are... having trouble posting those?

 

Nah, just kidding, here they are...  

Attached Thumbnails

  • photo 1.JPG
  • photo 2.JPG
  • photo 3.JPG


  • JDLowrance

Posted September 11, 2014 - 05:00 PM

#32

Thanks GP1K!!!

 

That's exactly what I needed.



  • GP1K

Posted September 11, 2014 - 05:38 PM

#33

Is this adding anything to the thread or are you running off at the mouth again ?

 

If you wanted to contribute something, you could have provided pictures.   That is the difference between TALKING and WALKING.

 

It doesn't take much to see which one you are better at.

 

Kinda like you're a lot better at researching and regurgitating stuff on the internet than riding or tuning bikes?



  • AtomicGeo

Posted September 11, 2014 - 05:55 PM

#34

Both produced pics...I say you guys are even on this topic.  :goofy:



  • JDLowrance

Posted September 11, 2014 - 09:55 PM

#35

And thanks MLCG...didn't see your pics up there. I now have a really good understanding of how this is supposed to go together.

 

You know, for as much as your opinions differ, you two guys ended up with very similar installations on the slave cylinder.

 

Thanks again!



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 11, 2014 - 10:14 PM

#36

And thanks MLCG...didn't see your pics up there. I now have a really good understanding of how this is supposed to go together.

 

You know, for as much as your opinions differ, you two guys ended up with very similar installations on the slave cylinder.

 

Thanks again!

 

No problem.

 

I can't tell what GP1K did.  I recommend not using the sleeve as I mentioned above.  The slave needs to be able to pivot.



  • GP1K

Posted September 12, 2014 - 08:30 AM

#37

No problem.

 

I can't tell what GP1K did.  I recommend not using the sleeve as I mentioned above.  The slave needs to be able to pivot.

 

Good call, I forgot about that part. The sleeve messed mine up at first as well. It was then ditched and is much better for it. It binds up in there and makes the pull just as stiff as stock.

 

Also the parts in there are not stainless steel etc and such are prone to corrosion. I brought this up with the guy at Magura and he said he would pass it on to engineering. So I just hit it with WD40 when I wash my bike/do my chain and that seems to keep it clean and smooth.

 

It was a PITA to install, but I haven't had to touch it since, (other than WD40) and it just works!



  • JDLowrance

Posted September 12, 2014 - 11:26 AM

#38

Cool, thatnks again guys!



  • ozbogan

Posted September 12, 2014 - 05:16 PM

#39

I bought this to help with my arm pump issues. Its a pain to install and the feel isn't all that good compared to the ktm set ups which I guess is to be expected. I ditched it after 3 rides and installed a z start pro. Better solution all round for me apart from the price. 



  • mc1hd

Posted September 12, 2014 - 05:36 PM

#40

For a bike that did not come with a slave sylinder this is a band aid, best save your money and re-route the cable and lube. Put your bike on a stand and rotate the bar's, you  can see and feel where it binds.







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