As you have CLEARLY demonstrated, you don't know what the hell you're talking about, and your logical leaps are hilarious. Correlation =/ causation. You haven't demonstrated anything other your ignorance of how the FI system works. IT'S NOT LIKE A CAR!!!
Your 'proof' is the way you *think* you bike feels, not any actual empirical evidence. Got any measurement of ridiculous "20% more air flow" claim? No, of course you don't.
Tell you what, I'll bet you $1000 cold hard cash you are dead wrong about the FI system. If it really is as sophisticated as a car's system, then PROVE it or STFU. Post up schematics and part numbers of all the sensors on the WR that make that happen. You can't, because they don't exist. So... I lose, you get $1000.... I win, you don't pay anything, you just STFU and stop posting your asinine theories as 'advice'. Start a blog or something stop posting your misinformed ignorant opinions on things you clearly know nothing about. Deal?
ECU is schematic part #22. MAP sensor is #28. "Intake air pressure". Throttle position sensor is #27. Coolant temp sensor is #30. Intake air temp sensor is #31. engine speed is derived from the magneto unit. See Green/Black wire that feeds into the ECU on the top row of pins, 4th from the right.
EPA certified cars are closed loop. Yamaha FI is open loop.
The bike runs pretty well without major adjustments all they way from fully plugged up (stock exhaust, plugged air filter) to opened up (ported head, cams, aftermarket exhaust, clean air filter). It does so from sea level to 8,000 feet, from near freezing to 100F. There is NO WAY it could unless it was running a speed density system that calculated airflow and adjusted fuel delivery accordingly.
With a carburetor you can't even change the exhaust and have it continue to run cleanly.
Do you even ride your WR anymore ?
Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 10, 2014 - 09:43 AM.