Clutch problems



159 replies to this topic
  • ThumpMe

Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:04 AM

#81

Castings are not perfect, just the nature of motor, engine, and most ALL metal castings. They frequently have imperfections and flaws.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:07 AM

#82

Those plates are toast!

 

 

 

It the plates are blue, they are warped



  • ThumpMe

Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:10 AM

#83

Not necessarily, Blue plates just tell you they got real hot. Sometimes they warp sometimes they don't. I have seen plates with a lot more blue on
them than these and they still were straight.

  • ThumpMe

Posted August 31, 2014 - 08:22 AM

#84

Oh yeah, I meant to post the difference between the clutch actuation shafts. I noticed the '03 WR had a unique to that year part number. The YZ's
sometimes share the same one as the WR's and often for several years. I picked one of each for that year up off e-bay and the YZ one has about an .080 (2MM) longer throw....all other dimensions are the same, so they are interchangeable...at least for that year. I wish I had known that when I tried
out the YZ springs!

  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 09:57 AM

#85

Might get to the washer trick today.. Still confused on were the washers go on the spring



  • 72degrees

Posted August 31, 2014 - 09:58 AM

#86

I agree with Kah Ran Nee, well at least in reference to the casting marks......both my '03 and '07 have that same casting mark. If you have doubts like 72degrees says check to see if it is noticeable on the inside...I bet not. AND as BOTH said if it is NOT spewing erl....do not worry bout it!
 

 

My 03 has the same mark. It had me slightly worried until I noticed a similar 'seam' near the water pump. When it had to come apart, because the main shaft input bearing blew, I could see for certain it wasn't a crack. Just part of the die-casting process - perhaps an imperfection in the die. The steel plates in that showed evidence of the STM slipper clutch giving them a hard life despite the 'Forced Lubrication System' . The outermost one was obviously warped. Now it's all back together with a new set it feels much better.



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 10:28 AM

#87

Hey 72degrees is it difficult to remove the baskets?



  • Dexter42

Posted August 31, 2014 - 10:45 AM

#88

Hey 72degrees is it difficult to remove the baskets?


Washers go after you install the pressure plate and springs then the washers and bolts that hold everything together. The basket it's self is fairly easy to remove, if you have an impact. Now there's is a special tool needed to hold the outer basket in place while you loosen and tighten(torque) the center nut back in but I have never needed it. I just use and impact to remove and install that center nut but of coarse I don't recommend this to any one to try. You can mess things up with a powerful impact if you aren't careful, I feel like I have a pretty good feel on the impact and it's worked for me over the years. Once you take that but off there is a series of spacers/ washers, collars in between the two baskets that you should observe as you take out so you put back in- in that same order it comes out.

  • Dexter42

Posted August 31, 2014 - 10:47 AM

#89

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409510835.075457.jpg

This is for a 05 wr450

  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 12:09 PM

#90

Ok thanks that helps with understanding it, last night I used a shoe string to keep the clutch engaged and when I rode it a little bit ago neutral was a little easier to find; don't know why though.. 



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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 31, 2014 - 12:15 PM

#91

Not necessarily, Blue plates just tell you they got real hot. Sometimes they warp sometimes they don't. I have seen plates with a lot more blue on
them than these and they still were straight.

 

I believe that you believe that !

I understand, and agrree with you that they can look bad, but not be bad.... but it's pointless to re install them, as they are metalurically compromised anyway....and usually they are bad, just not obviously.

 

It's not about being 'bent' it's about high spots on the plate. 

Once they blue, they get high spots....spots of height change so small that you need a micrometer to see them. 

If you put the plate on a reference flat surface (not a marble kitchen counter top....) you will see the imperfections caused by heat distress, as gaps of light.

 

Just stacking the plates might show this, but not usually.



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 12:29 PM

#92

Listen to this rear shock, It sounds so bad.. and I don't really know if it needs to be rebuilt, or recharged with nitrogen. The only problem I don't have the $ to pay for a new shock or rebuild it :cry:Video: http://s1145.photobu...html?sort=3&o=0  (might show up with the picture below, just click the arrow on the right to get to the video

Also anybody know how to or have their licence plate mounted like?

photo_zps09f7996f.png


Edited by aust014, August 31, 2014 - 12:32 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 31, 2014 - 01:03 PM

#93

Dude, I wouldn't ride that bike like that.

 

Sounds like it's a gonner.

Are you sure it's not grinding linkage bearings?



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 01:31 PM

#94

Dude, I wouldn't ride that bike like that.

 

Sounds like it's a gonner.

Are you sure it's not grinding linkage bearings?

I have no idea if it's doing that, just noticed it because you can't hear it if the bike is running. What should I do?



  • 72degrees

Posted August 31, 2014 - 01:56 PM

#95

Hey 72degrees is it difficult to remove the baskets?

 

I don't even use an impact driver. In first gear, and jam the rear wheel with a bar through a sprocket hole (on some alloy sprockets at least) against the swing arm and then a socket on a breaker bar to loosen (once the tab washer has been freed). Jam it the other way and use  a  beam torque wrench to tighten.

 

Sounds like the rear linkage needle roller bearings are toast to me. Probably find a load of rusty bearing needles fall out when you get it apart.



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 02:18 PM

#96

I don't even use an impact driver. In first gear, and jam the rear wheel with a bar through a sprocket hole (on some alloy sprockets at least) against the swing arm and then a socket on a breaker bar to loosen (once the tab washer has been freed). Jam it the other way and use  a  beam torque wrench to tighten.

 

Sounds like the rear linkage needle roller bearings are toast to me. Probably find a load of rusty bearing needles fall out when you get it apart.

Buy new shock like this? link: http://www.ebay.com/...5-/281071787567 Or just take the shock off and see if it needs new bearings? Should I order the bearings now or after it is taken off?

Could I ride it for just Monday-Friday its my only way to school 


Edited by aust014, August 31, 2014 - 02:48 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 31, 2014 - 02:51 PM

#97

The bike is if front of you, not us.

 

You can ride  it, but not off road.

 

You need to download the Service Manual from the Yamaha website

 

You have to put the bike on a stand and remove the shock to rebuild the linkage bearings or the shock.



  • Dexter42

Posted August 31, 2014 - 02:50 PM

#98

Buy new shock like this? link: http://www.ebay.com/...5-/281071787567 Or just take the shock off and see if it needs new bearings? Should I order the bearings now or after it is taken off?
Could I ride it for just Monday-Friday its my only way to school


Where are you located?

  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 03:31 PM

#99

The bike is if front of you, not us.

 

You can ride  it, but not off road.

 

You need to download the Service Manual from the Yamaha website

 

You have to put the bike on a stand and remove the shock to rebuild the linkage bearings or the shock.

Ok tonight I will get the bike torn down and tomorrow remove the shock tomorrow and see how messed up it is



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 03:33 PM


Where are you located?

Iowa around the waterloo area, why?


Edited by aust014, August 31, 2014 - 04:40 PM.





 
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