Clutch problems



159 replies to this topic
  • Dexter42

Posted August 30, 2014 - 02:31 PM

#61

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409437835.523004.jpg
Also the groves/ holes I was talking about refered to the outer basket. Not the inner although I did manage to open the inner ones too but not add new ones.

http://www.thumperfa...clutch_mods.htm

Edited by Dexter42, August 30, 2014 - 02:34 PM.


  • ThumpMe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 02:36 PM

#62

Those stock holes are kind of a joke on a few levels.

 

Any more holes?

 

 

I rode my WR on the nastiest silty/rutted hill single track today for 50+ miles, and the clutch works fine, but it still drags, cold or hot......

...mostly because of the stupid 'Heavy Duty' Tusk clutch pack I installed:

the metals are twice as thick as stock.... so when I get fed up with it and go back to stock or Barnett/Hinson, I will look at the basket.

 

 I read where Tusk had some real thick monster plates......kinda like adding more flywheel weight? Probably helps with those big hills!

 

  I am still sore from yesterday's ride...reason I have been sitting behind this box for so long!



  • ThumpMe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 02:41 PM

#63

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409437835.523004.jpg
Also the groves/ holes I was talking about refered to the outer basket. Not the inner although I did manage to open the inner ones too but not add new ones.

http://www.thumperfa...clutch_mods.htm

 

 I knew what you meant and were refering to but a lot of aftermarket clutch boss' do have a lot more holes than stock bikes.....probably why their clutches work so well?



  • stevethe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 02:46 PM

#64

Humph you got me stumptified. Don't Ducati's have dry dry dry clutch's.

  • Dexter42

Posted August 30, 2014 - 02:47 PM

#65

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1409438723.565304.jpg
I see what your saying, but remember your clutches move back and forth. Those groves will have in impact on engagement/disengagement/drag. Part of the clutch is always submerged in oil. Some street bikes do have dry clutches, different fiber plates.

Edited by Dexter42, August 30, 2014 - 02:48 PM.


  • ThumpMe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 03:10 PM

#66

Your inner basket seems to have groves/marks on it. That's 1/2 your problem, also leaves me to believe your outer basket has to have them on there as well. Maybe you missed my post on here, but those marks that are on that baskets are enough to not let the clutch disengage properly while pulling on your lever. Holes may have helped your clutch pull but as those groves get deeper you will be back right where you started.

 No those are not grooves just slight surface marks, You can run a fingernail or edge of a six inch scale down the ribs and not feel a thing. The basket is fine as well.

 

If you look at the rib almost in the center of the shot with the little angled casting  coming down off the diameter you can sight pretty much down both edges and see that it is not grooved. 

 

 Also this boss is one I just got yesterday in the mail and had never been installed in my bike....probably won't have to be either since it is now fixed!


Edited by ThumpMe, August 30, 2014 - 03:16 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:07 PM

#67

Humph you got me stumptified. Don't Ducati's have dry dry dry clutch's.

 

Yeah, and they climb hills real good. DAAANGE GOOD.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:09 PM

#68

I'm still confused on where all the new holes were made.

 

More pics less typing  :rolleyes:



  • stevethe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:23 PM

#69



Yeah, and they climb hills real good. DAAANGE GOOD.

 

Duc_zpsdffb15ce.jpgThey do, oops that might not even be a picture of a Pukecati



  • stevethe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:26 PM

#70

I can understand extra oil for cooling the plates but not for initial slip. Like pull the clutch when cold. Plate thickness my good man. Stop using sewer caps for metal plates.


Edited by stevethe, August 30, 2014 - 04:27 PM.


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  • ThumpMe

Posted August 30, 2014 - 04:35 PM

#71

I'm still confused on where all the new holes were made.

 

More pics less typing  :rolleyes:

 On the outside diameter down through the ribs in fifteen assorted places.

 

 No more pics as to get the one that works so well it would require taking it apart again....and I am done with working on clutches for a while! :ride:



  • aust014

Posted August 30, 2014 - 08:36 PM

#72

Took the plates out today to inspect them here's a few pictures, a week or so ago I found some 08 plates on ebay that were used but only $28.00 so I replaced the plates with those. Still dragging so I don't really know what to do anymore and neutral is so hard to get into if the bike is running :facepalm: . Hey Kah Rah Nee you think that washer trick would help with this in anyway? Oh and to top things off I found a crack on the top of the housing of the clutch  :banghead: . If any of you know Crash279; I asked him about it and he said to leave it alone unless oil starting shooting out. Btw I believe that the crack was there before the clutch was opened.

 

photo_zpse62287be.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 photo23_zpse8d0be52.jpgphoto1_zps89299aed.jpgphoto14_zps3bec5fe3.jpg

photo41_zps5f62567e.jpg



  • Dexter42

Posted August 30, 2014 - 08:44 PM

#73

You should try drilling some holes on the inner basket and outer for more oil to flow thru like thumbmeup suggest. Also take a side picture of the baskets and post it up, wanna see what they look like on the ridges.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 30, 2014 - 09:28 PM

#74

Those plates are toast!

 

Washers help a couple of %



  • aust014

Posted August 30, 2014 - 11:28 PM

#75

You should try drilling some holes on the inner basket and outer for more oil to flow thru like thumbmeup suggest. Also take a side picture of the baskets and post it up, wanna see what they look like on the ridges.

Well I will try to see when I will have time to take it apart again. I'll also have to research how to get the baskets out, because when I did that yesterday I didn't really have any idea where the baskets were in there.. 



  • aust014

Posted August 30, 2014 - 11:59 PM

#76

Those plates are toast!

 

Washers help a couple of %

Ok when I get to taking it apart again ill have to give that a try when putting it back together. Just wondering was a little confused do you put the washers in the middle of the spring? The bottom of the spring? Or under the original washer? Oh and you said M6 washers correct?



  • 72degrees

Posted August 31, 2014 - 05:03 AM

#77

Took the plates out today to inspect them here's a few pictures, a week or so ago I found some 08 plates on ebay that were used but only $28.00 so I replaced the plates with those. Still dragging so I don't really know what to do anymore and neutral is so hard to get into if the bike is running :facepalm: . Hey Kah Rah Nee you think that washer trick would help with this in anyway? Oh and to top things off I found a crack on the top of the housing of the clutch  :banghead: . If any of you know Crash279; I asked him about it and he said to leave it alone unless oil starting shooting out. Btw I believe that the crack was there before the clutch was opened.

 

photo_zpse62287be.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Are you sure it is a crack? Does it go right through to the inside of the side cover?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 31, 2014 - 06:34 AM

#78

If that were a crack it would be spewing oil

That is a casting flaw, you just didn't notice it before.



  • aust014

Posted August 31, 2014 - 07:42 AM

#79

Are you sure it is a crack? Does it go right through to the inside of the side cover?

Well I didn't notice anything on the inside. So i'm not exactly sure if it is a crack

 

If that were a crack it would be spewing oil

That is a casting flaw, you just didn't notice it before.

Casting flaw? How the heck would that happen?



  • ThumpMe

Posted August 31, 2014 - 07:58 AM

#80

I agree with Kah Ran Nee, well at least in reference to the casting marks......both my '03 and '07 have that same casting mark. If you have doubts like 72degrees says check to see if it is noticeable on the inside...I bet not. AND as BOTH said if it is NOT spewing erl....do not worry bout it!
 
 I do not agree Kah Ran Nee on those plates being toast though...only way to REALLY tell if they are junk is check them for warpage on a flat surface as well as thickness on the fiber ones. Discoloring is pretty normal on clutch plates especially when you look at all the abuse they get.
 
 Kah Ran Nee, to try and clear up where all the holes go in reference to your post #68, look at my post #58 the second pic. Those two holes in that photo are typical of the pattern for the stock holes. Each hole is a little further down from the next (I think I measured about .170) all around the clutch boss.
 
 So on THREE of the ribs that already have a stock hole, I added one more hole in each of those three ribs out near that bottom edge in the photo to get some oil under those four outermost clutch plates. I believe I went in about .150 to .2 from that bottom edge for all three.
 
 Then looking at that photo again you see four ribs between the ribs with holes. I added one hole in each of the two ribs centered between those two ribs with stock holes. So in the photo I would add one about the center point in one rib and in the next rib a little lower down just to try and get a more uniform oil coverage as the oil exits that boss. Not real critical but you want the oil as spread out as possible. Then you do that same thing,add two more hoes in five more places between the stock holes. Kind of hard to explain! 
 
I plan on drilling one of these other boss' just to have a spare since I bought then...when I do I will take and post pictures of them set up on the machine....THAT will clear it up!

Edited by ThumpMe, August 31, 2014 - 08:05 AM.





 
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