Just got my first WR450 - 2005

Yamaha WR450F 2005 Yamaha WR450F

33 replies to this topic
  • graytshirt

Posted August 10, 2014 - 06:43 PM

#1

I bought a 2005 WR450F from a guy yesterday that appears to be in good shape for the year.  

 

56D3046F-591F-49E0-9D87-B191260B0039_zps

 

A4BD9642-1548-4DA8-B567-C925C5C619C4_zps

 

The previous owner told me he recently replaced fork seals and wipers, installed new front brake pads, new front tire, and changed the oil and filter.  The rear shock needs to be serviced because it appears to have a leaky seal.  The biggest concern was that the air box was dirtier than I prefer.  That being said the bike starts very easy, doesn't smoke, pulls pretty strong (I've never ridden a WR to compare it to) and seems to functionally sound.  However it does pop on decel, but i'm hoping the JD Jet kit will square that away.  

 

Right off I noticed a few things.  First the kickstand has rubbed on the swing arm and made a bit of a groove.  This bothers me more than it should and I'll most likely replace it with a used one that isn't grooved, but first I need to shim the kick stand to take the front to back play out of it.  Second, it seems to be missing some handle bar controls.  All I have is a start button on the right by the throttle and a ON / Off ignition switch down behind the headlight.  There are some plugs down to the left of the ON / Off ignition switch as well and one appears to be missing its mate.  I'm guessing this is either for High / Low headlight controls or an engine kill switch.  (See photo below)

 

CD680405-2636-44A5-B745-6204C6D9BCDD_zps

 

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?  I read somewhere about some people adding later model speedometers to these bikes but haven't been able to locate that article again.  I'll keep looking.

 

Third, someone has put a HMF slip on on this bike and it sounds pretty good.  I think I'll end up going with a complete system at some point.  Fourth, The petcock seems to be leaking as well, or at least it does not turn off.  So far the only thing I've done is clean the air box, replace the air filter, replace a cracked fuel line going to the carb from the tank, and strip all of the plastic and subframe off to see what I have and whats been done.  While giving everything a once over I also noticed that the AIS kit has not been installed on this bike and all of the emissions hoses are still in place, the gray wire on the 6 pin molex connector is still in place as well.  I looked at the connecter and tried using a small flat screw driver to release the wire from the connector but had no luck and decided to do more research on the proper technique before continuing.  If anyone knows of any tool used to facilitate this process and make it easier for the soft minded such as myself, I'd surely appreciate it.  If I can, I'd like to remove the gray wire from the connecter without cutting or damaging the connecter in case it ever needs to go back in place.  (Dumb I know, but I have a bit of OCD.)  I'm going to order an AIS kit, JD jet kit, and Scott T-handle air mixture screw to start and then I will start focusing on other items after I get it tuned properly for its current configuration.

 

If anyone has any suggestions for chain and sprockets for these bikes, please feel free to chime in, otherwise I'll just read the forum and implement a thorough search.  I'm also interested in getting my suspension squared away for use as a trail bike/woods bike.  Not a woods race bike.  All in all I'm pretty excited to have this thing and get it setup the way I like.  I have not had a dirt bike in my garage in a very long time.  If anyone in the Louisville Kentucky area knows of any local trails or has any place a guy can ride to get aquatinted with his bike I'd surely like to meet some other local riders.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 10, 2014 - 07:14 PM

#2

Where you expecting a Hurricane while your were driving?  5+ staps and the 2x4??



  • matt71

Posted August 10, 2014 - 10:54 PM

#3

On your handle bars on the right should be a start button and a stop button . on the left should be headlight high and low . in australia the left has headlight high and low and indicators and a horn button . but they come out here already for the street .

  • graytshirt

Posted August 11, 2014 - 04:52 AM

#4

Where you expecting a Hurricane while your were driving?  5+ staps and the 2x4??

Ha!  No, but the guy I bought it from was the nervous type.  He helped me load it and I just let him do what he wanted regarding the straps.  If it makes it any better there were only 4 straps...the 2x4 was his idea as well.



  • YamaLink

Posted August 12, 2014 - 07:45 AM

#5

If the dirty air box makes you pause maybe it's a good idea to take apart the linkage and see if there's a pile of orange rust dust waiting to fall out.



  • SilvFx

Posted August 12, 2014 - 02:56 PM

#6

I bought a 2005 WR450F from a guy yesterday that appears to be in good shape for the year.  

 

56D3046F-591F-49E0-9D87-B191260B0039_zps

 

A4BD9642-1548-4DA8-B567-C925C5C619C4_zps

 

The previous owner told me he recently replaced fork seals and wipers, installed new front brake pads, new front tire, and changed the oil and filter.  The rear shock needs to be serviced because it appears to have a leaky seal.  The biggest concern was that the air box was dirtier than I prefer.  That being said the bike starts very easy, doesn't smoke, pulls pretty strong (I've never ridden a WR to compare it to) and seems to functionally sound.  However it does pop on decel, but i'm hoping the JD Jet kit will square that away.  

 

Right off I noticed a few things.  First the kickstand has rubbed on the swing arm and made a bit of a groove.  This bothers me more than it should and I'll most likely replace it with a used one that isn't grooved, but first I need to shim the kick stand to take the front to back play out of it.  Second, it seems to be missing some handle bar controls.  All I have is a start button on the right by the throttle and a ON / Off ignition switch down behind the headlight.  There are some plugs down to the left of the ON / Off ignition switch as well and one appears to be missing its mate.  I'm guessing this is either for High / Low headlight controls or an engine kill switch.  (See photo below)

 

CD680405-2636-44A5-B745-6204C6D9BCDD_zps

 

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing?  I read somewhere about some people adding later model speedometers to these bikes but haven't been able to locate that article again.  I'll keep looking.

 

Third, someone has put a HMF slip on on this bike and it sounds pretty good.  I think I'll end up going with a complete system at some point.  Fourth, The petcock seems to be leaking as well, or at least it does not turn off.  So far the only thing I've done is clean the air box, replace the air filter, replace a cracked fuel line going to the carb from the tank, and strip all of the plastic and subframe off to see what I have and whats been done.  While giving everything a once over I also noticed that the AIS kit has not been installed on this bike and all of the emissions hoses are still in place, the gray wire on the 6 pin molex connector is still in place as well.  I looked at the connecter and tried using a small flat screw driver to release the wire from the connector but had no luck and decided to do more research on the proper technique before continuing.  If anyone knows of any tool used to facilitate this process and make it easier for the soft minded such as myself, I'd surely appreciate it.  If I can, I'd like to remove the gray wire from the connecter without cutting or damaging the connecter in case it ever needs to go back in place.  (Dumb I know, but I have a bit of OCD.)  I'm going to order an AIS kit, JD jet kit, and Scott T-handle air mixture screw to start and then I will start focusing on other items after I get it tuned properly for its current configuration.

 

If anyone has any suggestions for chain and sprockets for these bikes, please feel free to chime in, otherwise I'll just read the forum and implement a thorough search.  I'm also interested in getting my suspension squared away for use as a trail bike/woods bike.  Not a woods race bike.  All in all I'm pretty excited to have this thing and get it setup the way I like.  I have not had a dirt bike in my garage in a very long time.  If anyone in the Louisville Kentucky area knows of any local trails or has any place a guy can ride to get aquatinted with his bike I'd surely like to meet some other local riders.

 

I dont believe any of the connectors are Molex, they are Sumitomo connectors.  Nonetheless, I bought these tools (see FR-150) and they work pretty good for releasing the wires from Sumitomo as well as other connectors.

 

http://www.easternbe...ools/tools.html

 

 

You will use the tiny blade to lift up the plastic finger inside of the sumitomo connector so that you can pull either the male or female connector out of the the 6 pin connector (it helps if you push in the metal connector to take tension off  plastic finger before trying to lift with the tiny blade.  Dont forget to put silicone or a rubber piece in the now empty hole in the 6 pin connector

 

For the air screw, either get the brass R&D flex jet, the Keintech brass fuel screw, Scott T-Handle or the Merge Racing brass fuel screw.  I believe JD Jetting also carries a brass fuel screw for the FCR carburetor.  Do not get an aluminum one (not that you suggested an aluminum one).  Play close attention to the small parts on this.  Take the brass fuel screw, put on spring, then metal washer and then the rubber o-ring and insert carefully into fuel screw hole.  You will want to make sure there are not pieces of the old rubber o-ring stuck up there before installing these new pieces. 

 

I use www.ronayers.com for OEM parts.



  • graytshirt

Posted August 12, 2014 - 06:06 PM

#7

I dont believe any of the connectors are Molex, they are Sumitomo connectors. Nonetheless, I bought these tools (see FR-150) and they work pretty good for releasing the wires from Sumitomo as well as other connectors.

http://www.easternbe...ools/tools.html


You will use the tiny blade to lift up the plastic finger inside of the sumitomo connector so that you can pull either the male or female connector out of the the 6 pin connector (it helps if you push in the metal connector to take tension off plastic finger before trying to lift with the tiny blade. Dont forget to put silicone or a rubber piece in the now empty hole in the 6 pin connector

For the air screw, either get the brass R&D flex jet, the Keintech brass fuel screw, Scott T-Handle or the Merge Racing brass fuel screw. I believe JD Jetting also carries a brass fuel screw for the FCR carburetor. Do not get an aluminum one (not that you suggested an aluminum one). Play close attention to the small parts on this. Take the brass fuel screw, put on spring, then metal washer and then the rubber o-ring and insert carefully into fuel screw hole. You will want to make sure there are not pieces of the old rubber o-ring stuck up there before installing these new pieces.

I use www.ronayers.com for OEM parts.


Thanks man! Those tools are exactly what I'm looking for. Do you insert them from the front or back side to release the catch on the connector?

  • SilvFx

Posted August 13, 2014 - 02:19 PM

#8

the front side of the connector (i.e. from the male or female metal connector side - and NOT from the wire entry side).



  • adam500

Posted August 13, 2014 - 03:34 PM

#9

i've added a Vapor speedo to a KTM I built up. There are great. Not shure what they cost now a days. It might be cheaper and eaiser than fitting a later year WR speedo, maybe not?

With the Vapor you get a digital water temp, RPM, speedo, odometer and top speed recall.

How deep is the groove in the swingarm? Got a pic of it?

What kind of hand guards are those on your bars?


Edited by adam500, August 13, 2014 - 03:36 PM.


  • graytshirt

Posted August 14, 2014 - 04:15 PM

#10

i've added a Vapor speedo to a KTM I built up. There are great. Not shure what they cost now a days. It might be cheaper and eaiser than fitting a later year WR speedo, maybe not?
With the Vapor you get a digital water temp, RPM, speedo, odometer and top speed recall.
How deep is the groove in the swingarm? Got a pic of it?
What kind of hand guards are those on your bars?


I'm looking into the cost of adding an OEM speedo and weighing options.

The groove isn't extreme, but it's a decent groove. (See photos below)

6A347701-C67A-4DFD-8288-F97BE1A14A07_zps

75787E4E-4150-4F6C-A080-576CA8E95E23_zps

The hand guards came on the bike and say "Enduro Engineering" on them. I plan to swap them out with some closed end hand guards.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 14, 2014 - 06:05 PM

#11

I wouldn't worry about the swingarm.

Apply some solvent to the scuff marks, and ad swingarm graphics....!



  • adam500

Posted August 15, 2014 - 01:25 PM

#12

I agree. I wouldn't worry about the swingarm. Those grooves don't look nearly deep enough to weaken it.

I would suggest FILLING IN the grooves with JB weld just to stop any more wear on the swing arm.

Just get them real clean and float it in there like you would apply bondo. then sand or fill off the excess.

It might not look pretty having a grey spot in the middle of your nice aluminum swingarm but you will not lose anymore aluminum.

It will give you a cheep wear point.

If you don't want those hand gaurds and slip on exhaust I would be interested in buying them from you.


Edited by adam500, August 15, 2014 - 01:34 PM.


  • DeepPurplishBlue

Posted August 15, 2014 - 01:47 PM

#13

I agree. I wouldn't worry about the swingarm. Those grooves don't look nearly deep enough to weaken it.

I would suggest FILLING IN the grooves with JB weld just to stop any more wear on the swing arm.

Just get them real clean and float it in there like you would apply bondo. then sand or fill off the excess.

It might not look pretty having a grey spot in the middle of your nice aluminum swingarm but you will not lose anymore aluminum.

It will give you a cheep wear point.

If you don't want those hand gaurds and slip on exhaust I would be interested in buying them from you.

 

 

why not just fix the kickstand?   fix the problem instead of the symptom and the symptom will no longer happen.

 

If it is rubbing on the swingarm like that the bushing in the kickstand pivot is probably gone.   maybe the bolt is grooved

also.   Unless it has gone on for so long as to also egg out the bolt hole in the bracket just few bucks for the parts from

Yamaha and no more digging into the swingarm.   



  • adam500

Posted August 15, 2014 - 02:39 PM

#14

I agree, the kickstand should be fixed correctly. that goes with out saying. But if your going to ride the thing, the new parts will wear out just like the first ones did.

The JB weld just gives you a buffer of time when it starts to wear INTO an ALLREADY weakened area.

Buys you a bit of time to get the parts ordered and installed so you can keep riding.

Thats all.

I can't hurt and doesn't add any weight.


Edited by adam500, August 15, 2014 - 02:45 PM.


  • graytshirt

Posted August 16, 2014 - 04:47 AM

#15

why not just fix the kickstand?   fix the problem instead of the symptom and the symptom will no longer happen.
 
If it is rubbing on the swingarm like that the bushing in the kickstand pivot is probably gone.   maybe the bolt is grooved
also.   Unless it has gone on for so long as to also egg out the bolt hole in the bracket just few bucks for the parts from
Yamaha and no more digging into the swingarm.


The parts have already been ordered to fix the kickstand and you are right. I did not order the bracket though because it looks to be in good shape. I'm also ordering new linkage bearings as well, because if this wasn't fixed I'm sure those bearings were not maintained either. Thanks all for the replies...

  • graytshirt

Posted August 16, 2014 - 05:20 AM

#16

Do most of you guys run OEM bearings for your wheels, linkage, headset, swing arm, etc?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 16, 2014 - 05:52 AM

#17

Do most of you guys run OEM bearings for your wheels, linkage, headset, swing arm, etc?

 

Yes

Stock or Pivot Works

Avoid 'all balls' bearing kits.



  • graytshirt

Posted August 16, 2014 - 06:18 AM

#18

Yes
Stock or Pivot Works
Avoid 'all balls' bearing kits.


Thanks for the tip! Are there any benefits to after market over OEM / OEM over after market or is it just personal preference?

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted August 16, 2014 - 06:28 AM

#19

I like OEM for the sake that Yamaha stuff is always built for the long haul...but I have never had to replace a Pivot works kit yet..



  • adam500

Posted August 16, 2014 - 10:04 AM

#20

+ 1 on pivot works.

You can NEVER go wrong with OEM. All depends on how much money you have to spend.







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