My WR450F tight woods "racer" build.



168 replies to this topic
  • GP1K

Posted August 21, 2014 - 02:32 PM

#81

You sure that rig isn't hiding a jake brake somewhere in that bag of tricks.

 

Shhh! There's signs all over the place telling me not to use those, keep it on the down low, man.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 21, 2014 - 07:19 PM

#82

Here are some pictures of my footpeg set up.   I had to buy a YZ mount to replace the WR mount, which was integral to the kickstand.

 

20140821_161845_1.jpg 20140821_161857.jpg 20140821_161832.jpg


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 21, 2014 - 07:20 PM.


  • Monk

Posted August 21, 2014 - 07:21 PM

#83

It's no big deal on the sense that it won't damage anything, but your forks won't work as designed. When you create a vacuum (or incur one with a temperature or altitude change), three less than desirable conditions occur.

1) The airspring effect in the outer chamber, which is a critical part of bottoming resistance and the overall feel of the fork (especially the initial and mid portions of the stroke) will be way off.

2) You'll run much lower in the stroke, lose inches of initial damping, and get very harsh damping for the remainder of the stroke.

3) If everything else is sealed properly, you can potentially foul up your fork seals if you're running in mud, deep sand, or other nasty conditions because potential exists to suck dirt in through the seals.

Give both methods a try sometime - you'll notice a big difference in the action of the forks. Or if you've already dropped your forks for the revalve, try pushing down on one on the garage floor, once with no vacuum, and once with. It's pretty easy to notice the lost initial stroke and harsh midstroke just by doing that.


I've done both, bike on the stand, bike off stand, during a race several times it makes no difference...

  • Monk

Posted August 21, 2014 - 07:23 PM

#84

Here are some pictures of my footpeg set up. I had to buy a YZ mount to replace the WR mount, which was integral to the kickstand.

20140821_161845_1.jpg 20140821_161857.jpg 20140821_161832.jpg


I would be curious to see the weight drop going to a YZ250F airbox/subframe. I bet a few pounds hangs around there alone...

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 21, 2014 - 07:26 PM

#85

I would be curious to see the weight drop going to a YZ250F airbox/subframe. I bet a few pounds hangs around there alone...

 

My friend has one.   I'll get him to weigh his sub frame the next time he has it off.

 

It wouldn't be a simple swap.  The seat mount on both the sub frame and the tank is totally different.

 

I'm still running the WR fenders too.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 21, 2014 - 07:27 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 22, 2014 - 12:46 PM

#86

Triple clamp swap.

 

Until recently most Yamaha dirt bikes had triple clamps with 25mm offset.  The 2010+ YZ450F and the 2012(?)+ YZ250F now have triple clamps with 22mm offset.

 

I desire triple clamps with less offset on my WR450F, so I bought a pair of 2011 YZ450F TCs.   They are a direct replacement except for the following:

 

1) 2010+ YZ450F fork have an upper clamp diameter of 54mm, thus the holes in the YZ triple clamps is 54mm.  WR450F forks have upper clamp diameters of 56mm.  I had several choices to fix this situation.  1) Use a pair of YZ forks with 54mm upper clamp diameters, 2) turn down the clamp surface on the WR450F forks or 3) Bore out the hole in the 2011 triple clamp.  I have chosen to do the later.  The lower clamp diameter is the same between the two.

 

2) The mounting tab for the number plate/headlight is different.   The WR450 TC has 2 smalll threaded holes.   The YZ triple clamps have 1 small threaded hole in the middle of the clamp.  Its relatively easy to work around with issue by making a small bracket.   As I run a number plate instead of a headlamp, I have no issues with this difference.

 

3) The bearing compression nut threads on the YZ450F stem stop about 3mm higher than on the WR stem.  I don't expect this to be a problem.  If it is, I'll used a small spacer under the nut.

 

4) The YZ450F stem is about 3mm short than the WR450F stem.  I don't expect this to be an issue.

 

5) I have not verified the steering stop angles.  Should the YZ steering stop be narrower, I can easily remove some material from them.

 

6) The YZ upper clamp is 0.11 pounds heavier, but the bottom is 0.12 pounds lighter, so the weights are basically the same.

 

7) As an added bonus the YZ TCs have 2 bar mount holes on each side, whereas the WR TCs only have 1.  This allows one to move the bars about 10mm further forward with the YZ clamps.

 

Everything else about these TCs is the same, including the fender bolt mounting pattern.

 

I paid $150 for the YZ TC on eBay, with bearings and bar mounts.  The bearings are like new.   I bought them from a reputable seller.  

 

I'm hoping that the 22mm offset improves my bikes turning ability in tight terrain.  I'm hoping it doesn't markedly decrease the stability of the bike at speed.

 

20140822_104715.jpg

20140822_104802.jpg

20140822_104926.jpg

20140822_102624.jpg


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, August 22, 2014 - 01:12 PM.


  • aust014

Posted August 22, 2014 - 02:07 PM

#87

If you get a fan get a SPAL 4" puller fan, I've never had my bike boil over but just installed the fan on mine with a manual switch and works like a charm. 



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 22, 2014 - 02:48 PM

#88

If you get a fan get a SPAL 4" puller fan, I've never had my bike boil over but just installed the fan on mine with a manual switch and works like a charm. 

 

My Spal 4" puller fan arrived about an hour ago.  My radiators sure are bent up !

 

FWIW, the fan itself weighs 0.83 pounds.



  • aust014

Posted August 22, 2014 - 03:24 PM

#89

My Spal 4" puller fan arrived about an hour ago.  My radiators sure are bent up !

 

FWIW, the fan itself weighs 0.83 pounds.

Are you saying the fan bent your radiator fins?



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 22, 2014 - 04:03 PM

#90

Are you saying the fan bent your radiator fins?

 

LOL.  No.  Lots of crashes, no radiator guards !  The fan doesn't fit on the lower part of the right rad because its not straight.



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  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 22, 2014 - 04:09 PM

#91

I'm not able to ride this weekend, so I'm taking the opportunity to do a bit of work on my bike.

 

I pulled off the fuel tank and the valve cover.   I checked the valves.

 

The intake valve spec is 4 to 6 thou.  (0.004 to 0.006")  The 4 thou feeler gauge won't go.  The 3 is a bit loose.  Every intake valve is the same.

 

The exhaust valve spec is 8 to 10 thou.  (0.08 to 0.010")  The 8 thou feeler gauge goes but the 9 won't.   Both valves are the same.

 

This probably explains why my bike didn't start on the first kick anymore.  Its probably got about 70 hours on it, all bush riding.  Its was over heated several times last season.  And when I was (re) learning to ride, it spent a lot of time running near the rev limiter because I wasn't ready to ride in the next gear. 

 

So... the big question is... do I keep the stock cams or throw in the YZ cams ?   I bought a set of studded tires for my bike.  When it snows in December, I'm going to put them on and try to ride in the winter.  It probably takes about an hour and a half to swap the cams.  I want to check the valves in about 10 hours too, just to be sure.  



  • aust014

Posted August 22, 2014 - 06:01 PM

#92

LOL.  No.  Lots of crashes, no radiator guards !  The fan doesn't fit on the lower part of the right rad because its not straight.

haha I was going to say.. Mine came with radiator guards so i'm set 


Edited by aust014, August 22, 2014 - 06:01 PM.


  • RockerYZWR

Posted August 22, 2014 - 09:50 PM

#93

I've done both, bike on the stand, bike off stand, during a race several times it makes no difference...

I know it's a dead issue, but the difference in the forks is noticeable if they run a negative pressure. If it's not to you guys, no big deal. But I stand by the post.

  • Monk

Posted August 23, 2014 - 04:33 AM

#94

I know it's a dead issue, but the difference in the forks is noticeable if they run a negative pressure. If it's not to you guys, no big deal. But I stand by the post.


Cold, yes. Warm, no difference....

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted August 29, 2014 - 02:11 PM

#95

Triple clamp swap.

 

Until recently most Yamaha dirt bikes had triple clamps with 25mm offset.  The 2010+ YZ450F and the 2012(?)+ YZ250F now have triple clamps with 22mm offset.

 

I desire triple clamps with less offset on my WR450F, so I bought a pair of 2011 YZ450F TCs.   They are a direct replacement except for the following:

 

1) 2010+ YZ450F fork have an upper clamp diameter of 54mm, thus the holes in the YZ triple clamps is 54mm.  WR450F forks have upper clamp diameters of 56mm.  I had several choices to fix this situation.  1) Use a pair of YZ forks with 54mm upper clamp diameters, 2) turn down the clamp surface on the WR450F forks or 3) Bore out the hole in the 2011 triple clamp.  I have chosen to do the later.  The lower clamp diameter is the same between the two.

 

2) The mounting tab for the number plate/headlight is different.   The WR450 TC has 2 smalll threaded holes.   The YZ triple clamps have 1 small threaded hole in the middle of the clamp.  Its relatively easy to work around with issue by making a small bracket.   As I run a number plate instead of a headlamp, I have no issues with this difference.

 

3) The bearing compression nut threads on the YZ450F stem stop about 3mm higher than on the WR stem.  I don't expect this to be a problem.  If it is, I'll used a small spacer under the nut.

 

4) The YZ450F stem is about 3mm short than the WR450F stem.  I don't expect this to be an issue.

 

5) I have not verified the steering stop angles.  Should the YZ steering stop be narrower, I can easily remove some material from them.

 

6) The YZ upper clamp is 0.11 pounds heavier, but the bottom is 0.12 pounds lighter, so the weights are basically the same.

 

7) As an added bonus the YZ TCs have 2 bar mount holes on each side, whereas the WR TCs only have 1.  This allows one to move the bars about 10mm further forward with the YZ clamps.

 

Everything else about these TCs is the same, including the fender bolt mounting pattern.

 

I paid $150 for the YZ TC on eBay, with bearings and bar mounts.  The bearings are like new.   I bought them from a reputable seller.  

 

I'm hoping that the 22mm offset improves my bikes turning ability in tight terrain.  I'm hoping it doesn't markedly decrease the stability of the bike at speed.

 

attachicon.gif20140822_104715.jpg

attachicon.gif20140822_104802.jpg

attachicon.gif20140822_104926.jpg

attachicon.gif20140822_102624.jpg

 

Correction.  The YZ fork bores are 2mm wider than on the WR.  This issue can be overcome by running a 1mm (40 thou) washer on the nut end of the axle bolt, between the fork and the axle spacer,or get a YZ left axle spacer, which should be 1mm wider.

 

I finished boring the upper triple clamps.  I'll assemble and test ride this weekend.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted September 08, 2014 - 08:20 AM

#96

Got my bike back on the trail.  While it was in the garage, I did the following

 

- relocated the ignition coil from behind the left radiator to inside the frame on the right, above the kick starter.   No more radiator bashing from the ignition coil !  Removed some weight in the process.

 

- removed about 2 pounds from the bike, miscellaneous changes.

 

- installed the 2010 YZ450F triple clamps.  22mm offset versus 25mm stock.

 

- changed the fork oil level from 320ccs to 350ccs.

 

- adjusted the valves.  70 hours, the bike had been heated a couple times.  All were at their lash limits.

 

- installed the 08 YZ exhaust cam.  It rocks.   Details here:  http://www.thumperta...ade-info/page-7  My comments start on post #107, page 6.

 

Result, its a totally different bike.  It feels 20 pounds lighter.   Not sure if its the forks riding higher or the exhaust cam or the offset, but its way more nimble, faster, flows way better, etc.  I think every change I made is positive. 

 

I think the steering is dramatically better.  My bike was in the shop 2 weekends in a row and I've been riding a heavily modded YZ125 and a big bore YZ250F in the mean time.  Neither of those bikes are slouches, both owned by a racing vet expert.  I'd say my bike steers and handles better than both of them.   Woods riding is all about picking lines and yesterday on a 20 mile ride I was able to pick some very excellent lines, very easily.

 

I am very happy with how my bike has shaped up for woods riding.  I think its an excellent woods mount.  That is a big change from when it was stock.


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, September 08, 2014 - 08:21 AM.


  • DRS

Posted September 08, 2014 - 08:54 AM

#97

feels like another 20lbs shaved off? nice!  must ride like a 125 now. congrats.



  • GP1K

Posted September 08, 2014 - 09:00 AM

#98

feels like another 20lbs shaved off? nice!  must ride like a 125 now. congrats.


Nope BETTER handling than a 125 or 250F! Pretty amazing, huh? Went right past outhandling a 350 XCF and now outhandling 125/250s! It's probably the best handling dirt bike ever made at this point.

  • RockerYZWR

Posted September 08, 2014 - 10:20 AM

#99

I'm not doubting that a lighter-weight 450 with 22mm offset clamps handles much better than a stock WR450, but if the 125 or 250 (or any bike) isn't set up for the rider - both physical attributes and ability - it won't handle to its potential.

  • DRS

Posted September 08, 2014 - 10:41 AM


have you tried a taller rear sprocket? i know you said your bikes idles at 6mph with current 12/51 gearing, i've always setup my bikes for 3mph at idle to go fast in tight gnarly single track, i think a 12/55T or 12/56T will get you there.






 
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