2012 WR450F Starting Problems



26 replies to this topic
  • r1alvin

Posted December 15, 2014 - 04:45 PM

#21

I'm going to bump this thread because I have been experiencing similar issues with my '12 WR450. I seemed to have narrowed the issue down to a joint connector that is located behind the headlight assembly. with the main switch on, I fumbled around with the small white cap that covers the joint connector, and then immediately, the fuel pump kicked on and the bike fires right up. I'm curious to see if anyone else out there has experienced this strange issue? I don't see any abnormal corrosion or anything on that joint connector. I am going to clean it up with some contact cleaner, maybe a little bit of dielectric grease, close it up and tape it up really well to help keep the elements out?


Edited by r1alvin, December 15, 2014 - 05:00 PM.


  • erichter66

Posted June 14, 2015 - 04:04 PM

#22

My friend and I both just got 2014 WR450Fs. The dealer pointed out that the manual does say that the electric start does not work well at high altitudes and this was definitely true at 7000 ft. But when we went to Moab, around 4800', nothing changed, and it starts really crappy where I live at 50' above sea level. Yamaha plain screwed up on the electric start and it is the only bad thing about it as far as I am concerned. Fortunately, the kick start is very good and it usually starts on second try.

 

Also, it helps if after the first try with the electric starter, you twist the throttle all the way open 2x before you try it again. My friend figure that out, and it works many times.

 

Good luck.



  • Chaconne

Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:07 PM

#23

My friend and I both just got 2014 WR450Fs. The dealer pointed out that the manual does say that the electric start does not work well at high altitudes and this was definitely true at 7000 ft. But when we went to Moab, around 4800', nothing changed, and it starts really crappy where I live at 50' above sea level. Yamaha plain screwed up on the electric start and it is the only bad thing about it as far as I am concerned. Fortunately, the kick start is very good and it usually starts on second try.

 

Also, it helps if after the first try with the electric starter, you twist the throttle all the way open 2x before you try it again. My friend figure that out, and it works many times.

 

Good luck.

I have a 2014 and I have never had any problems with the e-start. What mods (if any)  did you or the dealer do?



Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • AtomicGeo

Posted June 14, 2015 - 06:39 PM

#24

After reprogramming my 2014 CO level to 12, my e-start is a non-issue, and I live at over 7000 ft with rides to over 10000 ft.

  • erichter66

Posted June 14, 2015 - 07:16 PM

#25

We both have the "free mods" - removed airbox snorkel and exhaust insert. The problem got slightly better when we installed the ECU, but we don't have the programmer yet, so it is with the default program.

 

Atomic Geo, thanks for the tip - is that a change that can be made with the GYTR programmer? That would be awesome if the starter actually worked.


Edited by erichter66, June 14, 2015 - 07:33 PM.


  • WRF-Rowdy

Posted June 14, 2015 - 10:56 PM

#26

Screw the programmer, make sure that you get the FI adjustemnt tool first :naughty:

http://www.cmsnl.com...2/#.VX5v5UZ1YqQ

 

The yamaha Power Tuner will not help a tiniest bit with starting problems,

the FI tool is your idle mixture screw of old.  What good is optimized power delivery, when

you get left in the dust by all the others the first time you stall you bike?

 

Buddy of mine had to work quite some time on his 450EXC until he got it to start perfectly.

He claimed even 1/8th of a turn of the mixturce screw makes a day and night difference

with regard to starting, especially when in gear.

 

But we EFI bike riders don't have such mixture screw, we are invited to shell out money to but it.

 

Everyone was pointing out one should richen the mixture by going to +8 on the CO setting.

So did I, and it was an embarrasment to ride in the woods with my buddies.  Everything, even the

stock WR250F of another friend was firing up better than my '12 WR450F.  I developed a demonstrable

technique of needing three(!) attempts to "most probably" get it going when stalled.

Sometimes I even had to get it in neutral. :banghead:

The preowner supplied me with the hint that when warm "she starts much better when you

gently lift the cold-start knob to just before it notches". Sounded like a very strange advice to me,

especially as this meant he'd put his left hand onto the knob, hence he couldn't have stated her in gear when hot :thumbsdn:

 

 

Back home in my third week of EFI WR ownership I hooked up the CO adjustment tool (actually the

FI tool in CO adjustment mode) and kept lowering the idle speed to as low as 1400 and while checking

the rich end of the CO setting where the engine would die and the lean end, aiming for the middle in between.

 

I ended up with a CO setting of -4 (or -6, I forgot) what would normally be called "very lean" an idle

and now the very same bike fires up great in gear! (Of course I increased idle speed to a sensible level afterwards)

 

Just today in the cold (~60°F) basement parking garage I dared not to pull the "choke" but to be

even more hideous by putting her deliberately in gear (rocking fore and aft to free the clutch)

and she fired right up!  Of course she didn't idle for long, being cold like that.  So while still in gear

I simply hit the button a second time cracking throttle open a hair after she fired up and she idled nicely!

 

When you dial in the CO value correctly (ignore the number, go for the behaviour)

a WR, that was hard to start even when waremd up,  let alone in gear,

WILL turn into a perfectly starting bike!

 

The fact that it did start up cold w/o pulling the cold-start button normally would indicate too rich an idle

mixture on a carbed bike. The EFI however, appears to "know" the engine and air temps and adds

cold start fuel by itself IF and only IF there is enough air to burn it. Seeing the throttle to be fully closed

and sensing via MAP sensor that one didn't pull to cold-start button it can only inject so much, which

is not enough to keep running.

 

Either the pulled cold-start button (MAP sensor) or the very slightly opened throttle (TPS) tell the EFI system

that it may add the amount of fuel it deems necessary for the cold engine.

I'm pretty sure that the cold-start button technically is unnecessary, except for folks who are too throttle happy

to just slightly open and hold the throttle when starting OR those ex.- two-smoke riders who have internalized

the habit of blipping the throttle while kicking.

 

So with the CO mixture set correctly you should be able to start in gear and even cold start (provided you manage

to open the throttle only a tiny bit and hold it there) w/o having to put her in neutral or reach for the hot/cold-start button.

 

Mine is a '12, Im the second owner, I'm pretty sure no one did change starter brushes and I've no idea how old

the battery is. When the CO is right the yamaha e-start setup is absolutely sufficient.

 

I'm running a YZ'06 exhaust cam, but I do not think that YZ timing had any positive contribution to e-starting. 

Literature claims, that the smaller LSA (lobe speratation angle) of YZ timing tendentially would "lower idle quality"

http://www.compcams....tion-angle.aspx

In my case that effect definitely was cancelled out by the correctly set idle mixture. ;)


Edited by WRF-Rowdy, June 14, 2015 - 11:31 PM.


  • RMK800

Posted June 16, 2015 - 05:37 PM

#27

My friend and I both just got 2014 WR450Fs. The dealer pointed out that the manual does say that the electric start does not work well at high altitudes and this was definitely true at 7000 ft. But when we went to Moab, around 4800', nothing changed, and it starts really crappy where I live at 50' above sea level. Yamaha plain screwed up on the electric start and it is the only bad thing about it as far as I am concerned. Fortunately, the kick start is very good and it usually starts on second try.

Also, it helps if after the first try with the electric starter, you twist the throttle all the way open 2x before you try it again. My friend figure that out, and it works many times.

Good luck.


Everybody should try Moab just once. Awesome place to ride!




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.