Swamped 2012 WR450: Oil won't drain.


17 replies to this topic
  • Rusty99

Posted June 26, 2014 - 11:53 PM

#1

Hi Guys,

I fell over in a dirty/muddy water crossing last night. The bike took in a lot of water via the air box. Problem is now when I try to pour new clean oil in to flush the engine nothing comes out the drain plug. I've put 2.5 liters of oil in and nothing is coming out. Have I clogged the engine with silt & mud?

 

The following is what I did.

 

1. Stood bike on back wheel and opened air box. Many liters of dirty water came out.

2. Removed air filter

3. Removed Spark Plug while bike was standing flat & kicked it over. (Mistake that we didn't turn it upside down)

4. Check oil dip stick couldn't hardly tell if there was any oil on stick

5. Bike fired up and ran ok for 5min.

6. Bike stalled out and wouldn't stay running.

7. Reved up engine hard to keep it running, but then it puked out a lot of milky oil/water through the airbox and quit running.

8. Ditched bike in woods for the night as it was getting dark and walked 5km back to truck.

9. Bike stayted in woods overnight 24hr until I rescued it this evening.

 

I was successfully able to drain the milky oil/water out of bike initially however when I pour fresh clean oil in, nothing comes out the drain plug?!? What the heck is going on.

 

Pulled the bike back to truck and was able to drain more milky oil/water out of engine oil plug.

 

Filled bike again with 2.5 liters of oil, but nothing flows out?!?

 

What is going on? Is the bike clogged up inside?

 

I'm going to attempt to pull things apart as best as a newbie can tomorrow but need to figure out when no oil is flowing through?

 

Help please

 

Thanks fellas

Attached Thumbnails

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 27, 2014 - 05:20 AM

#2

Remove tank, turn bike upside down, and run the starter with the kill button pressed, with the spark plug and oil plugs and air cleaner removed.

 

Get out all the oil you can.

 

Then pull the throttle body and clean it by hand. Do not soak.

Then pull the FI nozzle and clean it using a 9v battery to cycle the injector, and compressed air and carb cleaner

Before putting the tank back on, pull the fuel pump and replace/clean the filter, and clear all the fuel lines of any debris

Do not run the pump dry.

Replace all fuel and oil.

Pressure wash the bike a few times, and then cover everything in WD-40 (accept the seat and grips and tires)

 

When you are ready to start it again, be sure to get the motor up to temp, then kill it and drain the oil.

If it has any evidence of water, repeat until the water is completely removed

 

Once you are sastified that you have saved the motor, pull the wheels, steering head, swingarm, linkage, and re-grease everything with high-temp moly grease

 

 

Never start a swamped motor until you remove all swmap water and oil and replace it, and with FI, until you clear the fuel and injector paths


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick, June 27, 2014 - 05:22 AM.


  • flyandride

Posted June 28, 2014 - 08:07 PM

#3

The engine has 2 oil plugs, one on the left side below the alternator cover.  One facing right on the bottom of the engine between the frame members.  Did you pull both? 

 

Is that a license plate zip tied to your rear fender?  


Edited by flyandride, June 28, 2014 - 08:08 PM.


  • gml79

Posted May 10, 2015 - 03:29 PM

#4

Hey guys, I did almost exactly the same thing, oil is now golden once again. But still nothing on the dipstick. Oil pressure is good as some seeps out the check screw when at idle. The other strange thing is when I check the overfill screw at the bottom, it will run all the oil out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gary

  • gml79

Posted May 10, 2015 - 03:41 PM

#5

FYI, I did all the steps above from krannie. Thanks

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 10, 2015 - 05:22 PM

#6

Still working on this a year later ??

 

Inside the motor is a strainer, and an oil pump and oil passages.

 

http://www.bikebandi...54391#sch749035

 

One or more are clogged.

 

Do NOT start the motor any more !

 

You need to pull the motor apart and find the problem.

 

You suck all the debris through out the motor when you do.


Edited by KRANNIE, May 10, 2015 - 05:23 PM.


  • gml79

Posted May 10, 2015 - 05:31 PM

#7

Thanks, no I just did this yesterday and found this post... Looks like I got aloe more work ahead of me

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 10, 2015 - 07:30 PM

#8

...but you did pull both drain plugs, and drained with the filler cap off....?

 

Have you looked at the oil filter?



  • gml79

Posted May 10, 2015 - 08:07 PM

#9

Yes, all that done... Getting to the oil pump may prove to be too big s job for me
Oil filter had some sand in it... Replaced twice in flushing process

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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 10, 2015 - 08:37 PM

#10

Oil pump is easy to get to



  • gml79

Posted May 10, 2015 - 09:14 PM

#11

The manual kind of goes in circles...says to remove shift shaft to get to oil pump, then on the shift shaft page it says to remove oil pump 1st... And I can't find that strainer listed in manual at all, maybe in a little over my head

  • Regalman

Posted May 11, 2015 - 12:09 PM

#12

Threads like this is what make me not want to buy a used bike.

 

I hope you get it up and running again.  



  • Just_a_trail_rider

Posted May 11, 2015 - 12:14 PM

#13

Threads like this is what make me not want to buy a used bike.

 

I hope you get it up and running again.  

Threads like this is what makes me not want to swamp my bike!



  • vlxjim

Posted May 11, 2015 - 02:52 PM

#14

Hey guys, I did almost exactly the same thing, oil is now golden once again. But still nothing on the dipstick. Oil pressure is good as some seeps out the check screw when at idle. The other strange thing is when I check the overfill screw at the bottom, it will run all the oil out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gary

What overfill screw? The 2012 is a dry sump motor. Its stores the oil in the right front side of the motor while the motor is running. The oil quickly drains out of this reservoir after you shut off the motor. You should be able to warm up the bike shut off the motor and check the oil level on the dipstick in under 30 seconds after shutting off. As stated before there is two drain plugs one to drain the dry sump oil reservoir and the other to drain the oil left in the case. Oil coming out of the oil pressure check port is a great sign that you got oil pressure and the pump is working. Checking the oil level on the newer fuel injected WR's is quite the pain in the butt.



  • gml79

Posted May 11, 2015 - 04:33 PM

#15

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1431390622.365723.jpg ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1431390646.683378.jpg


The one labelled 1... Admittedly, I have not used it until now when I couldn't get anything on the dip stick, so I don't know what it do d before. I have not had a problem getting anything on dip stick to this point
Sorry bout the sideways picture... I guess it is the position my bike was in!!

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 11, 2015 - 05:05 PM

#16

:facepalm:



  • gml79

Posted May 11, 2015 - 08:56 PM

#17

Little confused... Is the face palm because I'm an idiot or that the pictures are sideways??

  • vlxjim

Posted May 11, 2015 - 09:17 PM

#18

Yeah the check oil bolt is the dip stick cap (bolt). The bolt next to the dip stick is a case bolt.  Oh and on the same page it shows a bolt "A" on the bottom thats the other drain bolt.  That was for checking the temp for idle adjustment. Add more oil. My bike with full oil change takes a little more than the specs say. 


Edited by vlxjim, May 11, 2015 - 09:18 PM.





 
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