'12 450 battery delete and wiring questions


7 replies to this topic
  • Lumberjack450

Posted June 26, 2014 - 02:32 PM

#1

First off.. done some research and found that some years of WR require a capacitor(?) That battery cables bolt to if you are going to remove the battery, while some need only the neg cable bolted to the frame. Does anyone know if I need one of these on a 2012?

Second, as I am removing the lights, e-start, speedo, etc, I will have a whole lot of wires not leading to anything. Is there any way to remove them from the harness so I don't have the extra weight and bundles of wire under the tank?

Any advice is appreciated. Previous threads tend not to go into much detail. Please no lectures about the impossibility of turning a WR into a YZ, I get it.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:19 PM

#2

The MXA article was misleading. The bike is already equipped with the capacitor.

Basically you just disconnect the battery. Try it. You'll see what I mean. Disconnect the positive lead and isolate it. Then kick start and ride it. Wala, it works.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, June 26, 2014 - 08:21 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:30 PM

#3

So once you delete the battery (and the starter power lead) what else can be removed ?

It turns out that everything in the relay tray can be deleted. None of it is essential. Chech the wiring schematic for more info.

When you remove the battery the ground cable to the engine will be non functional. It turns out the wr450f runs an isolated stator and thus the entire power system grounds to the engine through that cable. This occurs via the ground feed comming from the stator. To fix this issue, fabricate a jumper that goes from the black stator ground to the frame. Problem fixed.

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:41 PM

#4

As fsr as slimmimg down the massive harness under the tank, it could be done but I havent touched it.

Several Australian soures have mentioned a special lightweight harness, but Ive never been able to find it.

Im also not sure what the aus harness would do... as some of the people running the light harness retained electric start ! This leads me to suspect that the aus bikes come nearly road worthy witb signal lights, etc and the special harness deals with removing that stuff.

I also looked into using a YZ harness. That wont work because the ECM connection is different, for starters.

Im reluctant to mod my harness because right now I could return my bike to stock fairly easily.

I dont doubt there is a pound or so to be saved by slimming down that harness.

It would be easy to make a custom harness if on had access to the connectors.

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  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:44 PM

#5

Ask if you need more detail.

I refrained from posting this stuff because I wasnt sure there was interest.

  • KennyMc

Posted June 26, 2014 - 09:07 PM

#6

I think someone is suffering a mid-life-crisis :smirk:



  • Lumberjack450

Posted June 28, 2014 - 02:43 PM

#7

I'm looking to remove the entire E-start sysytem and lights
Keeping the low fuel light and ignition switch, are they separate?
So the assembly with fuses that the battery cables come from is not needed?

I'm terrible at understanding wiring diagrams

  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted June 28, 2014 - 07:52 PM

#8

I'm looking to remove the entire E-start sysytem and lights
Keeping the low fuel light and ignition switch, are they separate?
So the assembly with fuses that the battery cables come from is not needed?

I'm terrible at understanding wiring diagrams

 

 

The low fuel light and the ignition switch are still fully functional after you remove all the stuff under the seat.

 

FWIW, the fuel light can easily be implemented with an LED, if you are looking to keep it.  I don't see much use for keeping the on/off button, but your mileage may vary.






 
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