first fuel injected bike what do i need to know?

[yzUSMCf]

Just bought a brand new 2014 yz450f never had a fi bike before. What do I need to know for maintenance to make her last ?what's the best fuel? Any tips would be awesome thanks!!

[Honda_Power]

Just bought a brand new 2014 yz450f never had a fi bike before. What do I need to know for maintenance to make her last ?what's the best fuel? Any tips would be awesome thanks!!

Don't your bike come with an owner's manual?  I'm sure most bikes off the factory are de-tuned, there's probably easy ways to extract extra horsepower by simply messing around with the ecu or something.

 

As for fuel...............  premium ARCO? 

[not_again]

Just bought a brand new 2014 yz450f never had a fi bike before. What do I need to know for maintenance to make her last ?what's the best fuel? Any tips would be awesome thanks!!

1st rule, don't listen to Honda_Power. He just came off a ban from making comments like the above.

Get into the Yamaha specific forum, look at other guy's threads and post your own there.

You'll get less riffraff.

[yzUSMCf]

Yeah I've read it thoroughly bit still wondering what ppl in the real world are doing I'm in so cal and I can't find any non ethanol gas besides VP I spent allot of $ on my bike and just want to take super good care of her I'm kinda a info nut and do thorough maintenance lol.

Thanks for the reply

[Honda_Power]

1st rule, don't listen to Honda_Power. He just came off a ban from making comments like the above.

Get into the Yamaha specific forum, look at other guy's threads and post your own there.

You'll get less riffraff.

What did I say that was wrong?  Sport bikes sold in stock form are WAY de-tuned by the ecu, especially here in 'murica.  And I've heard people messing around with the restricted ecu to free as much as 15-20 extra horsepower. And what's wrong with premium ARCO fuel?

Edited June 17, 2014 by Honda_Power

[not_again]

What did I say that was wrong?  Sport bikes sold in stock form are WAY de-tuned by the ecu, especially here in 'murica.  And I've heard people messing around with the restricted ecu to free as much as 15-20 extra horsepower. And what's wrong with premium ARCO fuel?

I'll be damned! Honda_Power actually responds to an insult.

Maybe there is hope for you yet.

You'll see that I 'liked'  a post of yours earlier and on another thread that was spot-on.

 

 

Premium Arco? Really? Pull your head out and don't recommend a brand that freely admits that it sucks.

[yzUSMCf]

Up to 10% ethanol in fuel these days bad for everything in fuel system attracts moisture and errodes components I plan on keeping the bike for a long time so its a factor for me even if it may be small. And I'm not looking for more power . I know about the remapping benefits and will eventually since the bike runs lean from factory. Just trying to do the best for my bike

[DEMI]

Use a Mr. Funnel with a screen when pouring gas into your tank or at the pump or filler neck filter for the bikes tank. FI likes the cleanest fuel possible. The throttle response, so will seem pretty sensitive, so use caution at first. 'Gratz on the bike.

Edited June 17, 2014 by DEMI

[grayracer513]

Premium Arco? Really? Pull your head out and don't recommend a brand that freely admits that it sucks.

 

I run ARCO in everything, and I have no issues with it, unless you count that it closes off the pilot jet when it sits for a few weeks in mid summer.  

[yzUSMCf]

Thanks for the replys! It looks like I will just have to get premium 91 from shell or chevron since nowhere sells non ethanol and drain gas if its sits for a month or longer. Do you think running VP T4 OR U4.4 will hurt anything since its stock? That stuff is non-ethanol but expensive but love the smell of VP lol

[grayracer513]

U4x is oxygenated heavily enough that it often needs to be run richer to make up for it. 

 

The thing with pump gas these days, especially in SoCal, is that all the different brands are the same gas, with the exception of their proprietary additive packages.  Find a tank farm in the area and watch.  The tankers roll in empty other than the additives and all fill up at the same tank. 

[yzUSMCf]

Yeah I've noticed its all the same fuel and shell and chevron put in there v power or teacheron additives at the station. So I should wait to run race gas (t4/ u4.4) until I remap to a ritcher setting like the Preston map? Ect . I've never run race gas and have no experience with it will it shorten the life of the engine with the additional power?

[grayracer513]

Actually making and using more power (as opposed to a modification that has more power potential) will naturally put more load on engine components that directly carry it (piston and crank assemblies, and drive train, but not valve gear) and so naturally does reduce the service life of an engine.  But your engine was designed to produce more than it was capable of in stock trim, too.  It's about how many horsepower/hours the engine runs up.

 

But your '14 already has a whopping 57-58 hp, depending on who you ask, which is at least 5 more than the previous models, and the most of any current 450 MX bike.  I don't think it will turn out to be worth the expense or hassle, frankly.  If it's all about that smell, put a cap full of Maxima 927 castor in each tank of gas. 

[yzUSMCf]

Yeah I figured. And 58 HP is PLENTY for me to be honest. Power is not the reason I would run race gas its for the non ethanol clean burning fuel to keep carbon build up to a minimum but with the point you made about shortining life span some its really no difference if I run 91 pump or not from what I gather thanks for the info! I'll probably run u4.4 here and there for fun or if I got money on the life for a drag race haha. I'm anxious to get the bike broken in and on the track until desert season then the fun really starts!!

[yzUSMCf]

One more question how many hours is a lot??I:e when to rebuild top end and whats the lifespan of a modern 450 befor a rebuild is nessisarry I don't Wang it off the limiter. I've heard the demo 14 450 has 200 ish hours on it .

[grayracer513]

Well, the YZ450 has had a reputation as one of the most durable of the lot ever since it came out.   Top end life will vary by how the bike is used.  Guys who race pretty much full time may find it prudent to go no more than 50 hours on a piston, but my mostly desert raced and ridden '06 went seven years on the piston it came with, well over 300 hours of run time. 

[stevobiker]

Agreed! Arguably the most reliable of the lot.

Here is my advice:

Oil is the blood of that motor, keep it fresh and follow strict change intervals. Pop a cheap hour meter on to keep track of time and when you get an EFI tuner check the HM reading against the ECU reading.

Oil changes:

Find a good grade of oil safe for clutch use, don't rush to pay mega money for the 'race stuff' at your local dealer ( unless it's affordable ) but check out other sources, I brought 6litres for USD$50 according to my manual the change interval is 12.5 hours at race level. I am novice/recreational motorcrosser so I extend that to 15 ( fine bash me for 'not going by the manual' ) but even at 12.5 that 6 litres lasts up to 62.5 hours ( a LOT of seat time ) change the filter every two changes ( that's just been the way it's happened... ) or just go according to your manual ( recommended )....

This is just the way I do things 2010 YZ450.

Engine longivety- as mentioned a reliable bike in most areas especially motor! RPM kill engines-10000rpm for 1 hour will wear faster than 5000rpm for 1 hour, same conditions.

That said, service intervals should not be excessive for replacement parts ( pistons/rings ) you should get a comfortable 60-75hours, IMO, from a piston HOWEVER....check the piston and replace rings/deglaze at half that and de-carbon the head. Please note this is my routine maintence. For the lower cost of rings and gaskets you may as well change out the rings then piston and rings.

Valve should last a long time, keep an eye on the valve clearances, when that moves it's time to act ( and keep a note book of how much the valve moved and how many times you have shimmed it )

Air filter maintence is the key to topend longivety!!!! Buy a few filter and get good filter oil, have three or four filters ready to go and take one riding-don't be ashamed to check the air filter when your out!!

Bottom end and gears/clutch should serve you well. Just check the crank at topends and take action if it moves out of spec--remember rpms....kill motors.

[grayracer513]

12.5 hours is too long an interval for an oil change, regardless of the manual.  If you are sure you have a durable oil that will stay at the same viscosity grade it started out at, you can run it for as long as 8.  5-6 is better.  If you use lower cost automotive oils, change it every ride day, 2 hours max.  The '14 holds only 700cc.  It's cheap insurance.

[yzUSMCf]

Its my baby Ima take care of it! I bought an hour meter and held back my exitement and managed to install it even before I kicked her over for the first time lol I plan on breaking it in (not sure exactly how yet too many theory's lol) then change the oil about 2 -3 hours for the first oil /filter change manual says it takes 20 min 1/3 throttle ride let cool then a 40 min ride at 3/4 throttle for a total of an hour . I'm debateing on putting maxima ultra 4 synthetic after that first oil Change or if I should

continue to use conventional oil for the first 2 changes then to synthetic.. decitions decitions.. I plan on changing oil @5 hour intervals and change filter every other oil change im going to check valve clearance per the manual and inspect can chain

tention ect. And I've already created an indept maintenance log. I'm a mech in the USMC and were pretty strict about logging every bit of maint so luckilly its habit lol

[yzUSMCf]

And filter every ride or if I'm in the desert over the weekent I'll bring some backups . And I'm not one to rev her up high the hour meter doubles as a tach so I can keep an eye on the rpms