Preperations for WR450F 2004 bike

7 replies to this topic
  • Robert_Brazil

Posted January 22, 2004 - 03:08 AM


I almost did not sleep tonight because today, after 3-months waiting my new WR450F 2004 finally arrived in Brazil. The bike comes in the crate and I am going to prep it before the first ride. Can anyone comment whether my deeds are good and sufficient: 1) exchange cooling water, lubrificate wheels, linkage, steering case, airfilter and new motor-oil (the suspension oil can wait or better not?). 2) verify bolts and nuts 3)cut the grey wire and grind off the accelerator stop and remove baffle insert from muffler (anyone have pictures/dimensions of the carburetor stop?) 4) remove airfilter lid. What else??????What is the break-in time/distance and do I have to adjust jetting for this or that's just for 2-strokes?

What else?

  • endurodog

Posted January 22, 2004 - 04:47 AM


Robert sounds like you got a good game plan there. The fork/shock oil can wait. I actually did over 1000 miles on my 03 before changing. Don't forget to check your spokes.

As far as break in. The 4 strokes have a longer break in period than 2 strokes. It should be outlined in your owners manual.

Congrats on the new ride and good luck!!!

  • beezer

Posted January 22, 2004 - 07:15 AM


Your plan sounds good.

My break in is 10 minutes long. I ride around the block for a while and then change the oil and filter.

After the first ride I check nuts and bolts and change the oil and filter again.

Thats it.

  • 5spoke

Posted January 22, 2004 - 07:33 AM


anyone have pictures/dimensions of the carburetor stop?

My throttle stop was 19mm exactly. That was the shank of the bolt, the allen/head is not included in this measurement. Start a little bigger and then grind it down as you look in the carb to see when its wide open. :)

Like so many other post, that have already pointed this out; you are going to have to change your jetting big time, when you've done those mods.

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  • jerryls

Posted January 22, 2004 - 11:12 PM


Here's a good one: before you assemble the bike, take the stock handlebars and throw them in the trash. Nothing like loading everything up, driving for an hour to a riding spot, laying down the bike in the first ten minutes, and having to go back home because the handlebars look like a pretzel.

My WR's air filter was dry as a bone out of the crate. The exhaust was leaking in two places. The rebound on one of the front forks was at 8 clicks and the other at 7. Oh, and the tires were at 35 psi.

I believe the manual recommends one hour at less than half throttle for the break-in. I'm a little anal, so I changed the oil when I took it out of the crate, then rode it for 10 minutes and gave it an oil and filter change. The oil had lots of particulate matter in it. Glad I didn't subject the engine to a whole hour with that oil. Sounds like a lot of extra work, but I think it will increase the life of your engine.


  • 5spoke

Posted January 22, 2004 - 11:37 PM


To all the new '04 guy's. This goes without saying, but check your brake fluids. I checked my yesterday and the front was almost empty. I'm not sure if it is the dealers fault or if it came like that from the factory. :)

  • Indy_WR450

Posted January 23, 2004 - 06:00 AM


Dealer fault bike ships without fluids. :)

  • Robert_Brazil

Posted January 24, 2004 - 05:04 PM


Well thanks to all who replied thus far for the additional help. The bike is a Canadian model and came already without carb-limitation and no airbox noise reducing lid. By the way, I greased everthing incl links, and bearings (incl. steering etc ) yet all were very well greased already. Also the brakes came with the right amount of fluid. Air-filter was never lubed. I drained the engine oil, ran it for 15 minutes and drained again. Oil was quite clean. I intent to run it tomorrow again for a longer time and repeat the oil drain or is this unnnecessary?. I cut the grey wire, uncorked the bikes muffler insert, placed an Acerbis fat bar and placed the 165 main jet but still felt that the bike was pour in the middle range (air clip in middle position) I'll try to close the airscre a bit also although due to Brazil's lesser quality fuel it is normal that bikes have to be " riched" Althoug it felt poor it didn't pop, but that us perhas due to that carbs device on the WR. (is it really better to remove it like the YZ?)

My question now is regarding de airfilter box. There is no lid yet the battery blocks quite a sustantial part, I also noticed that different form my WR426 the right side panel has no opening to put your hand in to lift the rear end of the bike (and also increase air flow) I found some info on this side about drilling holes in the right side of the airfilter box. To which extent this is really necessary? And would it be better to "open" the hand insert of the right side panel??

Other question, how long can the bike stand still and still have enough battery charge to start it?

What is the right way to start this bike? Is it better to pull the hotstart lever everytime, can I start it without causing damage in-gear with the clutch lever pulled?

I am still breaking the bike in and haven't jetted it 100% yet , though it felt like my YZ time WR426F with WhiteBros E-series pulled harder. Is this true, and how much comes due to timing and how much is a result of the stock (uncorked) WRpipe. I have a friend with a 2003 YZ muffler and power bomb curve for sale, do you recommed it?

I notice that the bike was geared 14x50. I geared my WR426 14x43 which is great as the bike has plenty of power and has to shift less and a longer haul and top speed. The 450 can also be geared 14x43 and still feel strong or is the primary transmission ratio of both bikes different? Thats all for now, thanks!@


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