2013 WR450F brakelight question


14 replies to this topic
  • hangerbaby

Posted May 31, 2014 - 07:28 PM

#1

Hi all,

I've searched and been tugged around to a few different forums and haven't seen many posts that deal specifically with the newer FI WRs, so I'm sure I'll have more questions later, but right now the biggest question I have is in regards to getting this bike street legal.

Some sources suggest that the stock running tail-light on my '13 WR450F is dual-filament and will work as a brake light with little tinkering. I'd check but the bike isn't with me at the moment, but even if I knew whether it was dual-filament or not I  have another question: Is it adequate, and is mounting a license plate going to require me to replace that light with a piece that has a plate mount on it anyway?

Sorry if this topic has been covered, I'm just trying to get a straight answer on a new bike before buying more things than I need. 



  • DRZ04

Posted May 31, 2014 - 09:25 PM

#2

Depending what your state's requirements are for "Street Legal" is, everything is available piece by piece or in a kit. The two places I have heard the most about are Rocky Mountain ATV/MC Tusk [pieces or kit] and Baja Designs [pieces & kit]. I have a Baja Design kit on my 2013 WR450F. The brake light works off of the rear brake with a pressure switch but nothing for the front brake. The only problem I had was I had a wire that was tight in the plug crimp but the wire had pulled out & no continuity. It took a little to find that problem. Check & see what your state requires and go from there. Good luck.


Edited by DRZ04, May 31, 2014 - 09:26 PM.


  • hangerbaby

Posted May 31, 2014 - 09:36 PM

#3

I've already ordered the switch for a brakelight. I don't need much to be legal in my state.. basically, horn, brakelight, mirror. I am wondering if the stock tail light will double as a brake light if wired up correctly. Seems like it might but I am not sure just from looking at it 



  • DRZ04

Posted May 31, 2014 - 09:45 PM

#4

Not sure if the stock will work or not as a brake light. I bought my bike with the kit installed on it.



  • flyandride

Posted June 01, 2014 - 06:25 AM

#5

The stock tail light has a brake light in it.  There's 3 wires going to the light.  Black - negative. Blue - tail.  White - brake.  The white isn't hooked up to anything.  You'll have to wire from positive to a switch then to the white to make the brake light work.  



  • SilvFx

Posted June 01, 2014 - 08:23 AM

#6

Looking at the parts schematics for the '07-11 WR450Fs vs. '12-'14 WR450F's, the rear fender and tail lights look exactly the same even though the part numbers vary slightly.  For the '07-11 WR450F the wiring color scheme is the same as what flyandride indicate except I think the brake light wire is yellow instead of white.  I can tell looking at the parts schematic both the 2011 and 2014 use the sumitomo MT triangular 3 way connector and the reason they do so is the taillight side already has 3 wires.

 

Go here to see example of the Sumitomo MT connectors.  It is the triangular 3 position .090 Waterproof MT connector

 

http://www.easternbe...M-MT/sm-mt.html

 

If you look under your seat and pull apart the 3 way connector you will likely see on the bike side 2 wires [1 black (ground) and 1 blue (power for taillight)].  If you look at the taillight side of the connector you will see 3 wires [1 black (ground), 1 blue (taillight power) and 1 white or yellow (for power for brakelight that is already wired into the taillight)].  If you are comfortable with working on the sumitomo connectors and have the tools/parts, one way to handle this is to take power (splice into) the bike side of the blue wire, run it through the brake light switch and then back to the empty 3rd cavity on the bike side 3 way connector (remove the plug and replace with waterproof rubber seal and crimp on a sumitomo connector).  Another approach is to buy one of these that Sicass Racing makes for plug and play brake light switch on the WR450F. 

 

http://www.rockymoun...e-Switch?v=5639

 

I believe this SAR connector will work with the 2014 (works with the 2007-2011 and the'04-05s).

 

As for a license plate holder, I made my own and screwed it to the bottom of taillight.  Go to my garage and then look up under the modifications section for license plate holder.

 

http://www.thumperta...ha-wr450f-2007/



  • DuncR6

Posted June 04, 2014 - 11:30 AM

#7

1.) Is it adequate, and 2.) is mounting a license plate going to require me to replace that light with a piece that has a plate mount on it anyway?

Sorry if this topic has been covered, I'm just trying to get a straight answer on a new bike before buying more things than I need. 

1.) Officially, no but technically yes.  They are LEDs so there is no "filament," but in terms of what you're trying to do yes it's capable of having the brake and running light on the stock unit.  As stated above you just need to utilize the empty pin on the connector and provide a switched 12v+ source to that pin.

2.) No.  You can use the 3 mounting holes under the taillight to fasten a plate mount to it.  For example, this plate is mounted to the 3 screws holding the taillight to the fender:

OnBikeTailComparison_zps74829f5d.jpg



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  • hangerbaby

Posted June 04, 2014 - 11:35 AM

#8

1.) Officially, no but technically yes.  They are LEDs so there is no "filament," but in terms of what you're trying to do yes it's capable of having the brake and running light on the stock unit.  As stated above you just need to utilize the empty pin on the connector and provide a switched 12v+ source to that pin.
2.) No.  You can use the 3 mounting holes under the taillight to fasten a plate mount to it.  For example, this plate is mounted to the 3 screws holding the taillight to the fender:
OnBikeTailComparison_zps74829f5d.jpg


Good info thanks. Where might one find this plate mount?

  • DuncR6

Posted June 04, 2014 - 01:03 PM

#9

Good info thanks. Where might one find this plate mount?

Using this material in the Amazon link below and a heat gun.  First I inserted nylon spacers into the two holes closest to the rear of the bike to take up some of the space.  Then I heated the Kydex material and molded it around the black trim piece of the taillight.  Works like a charm.

 

 

 http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1



  • hangerbaby

Posted June 04, 2014 - 07:30 PM

#10

Using this material in the Amazon link below and a heat gun.  First I inserted nylon spacers into the two holes closest to the rear of the bike to take up some of the space.  Then I heated the Kydex material and molded it around the black trim piece of the taillight.  Works like a charm.

 

 

 http://www.amazon.co...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you have any pictures of that from the underside? How much rattling you think you experience? 



  • RockerYZWR

Posted June 05, 2014 - 09:36 AM

#11

Here is what I did for a plate holder; it's made out of light gauge (16 ga or so) aluminum and doesn't rattle at all. If you get some sheet metal pliers to make good sharp bends and some shears to make clean cuts, you can make all kinds of good stuff. I used pop rivets to hold the corners.

Disregard the two forward bolts shown. The previous owner had drilled those holes through the stock fender to provide additional support for the Tusk DS plastic sub-fender that he had installed, and I reused them for this. When I went to white plastics, I trimmed everything forward of the three stock screws and use only them to hold it on. It works perfectly. The tail light is the one included with the Tusk kit, but I may build something else to work with the factory tail light since it looks cooler. I just don't ride this bike on the street at all much - just keeping it plated so maybe I can get a little more for it when I eventually sell it.

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  • DuncR6

Posted June 06, 2014 - 05:47 AM

#12

Do you have any pictures of that from the underside? How much rattling you think you experience? 

Note: the pictures look glossy because the pieces were still wet.  The Kydex material is the same color as regular plastic...it's not glossy.

 

Sorry for the delay, I've yet to wash my bike from the last ride so I just took the plate holder only off last night and cleaned it up for these pictures.  In terms of rattling, there is zero rattling.  In terms of durability, I've crashed plenty of times and have never damaged it.  I've even wheelied once on a ditch crossing and folded my license plate in half...yet it didn't hurt the plate holder.  That's the reason I now use a lamenated copy of my license plate instead.  The stuff is impressively strong and easy to work with.

If you try this then here was my process:

1.) Cut the large sheet into a smaller flat sheet by using a utility knife and a straight edge.  Just score it a couple of time then snap it along the line.

2.) Heat it up evenly with a heat gun.  You can do it with an oven, but it's a lot harder.  Once heated, obviously just lay it over the plastic trim piece to which it will bolt and mold it by hand while reheating as necessary.

3.) Reheat the portion that will bolt to he actual license plate and use a ruler or something straight to create and even bend so that you can angle the license plate down a little bit.

4.) Heat the (3) areas where the mounting holes will be.  Use an 8mm socket (about that size) and push on the sheet to create a depression into the mounting holes.

5.) Locate the water drain hole on the stock black plastic trim piece in relation to the plate holder.  Drill a hole in the plate holder to allow water to pass through.

6.) Trim to fit.  You can use a utility knife, but if you have a scroll saw then use that instead to speed up the process.

 

I picked up the nylon spacers at Ace Hardware and then put a wrap of electrical tape around them to take up the tiny bit of slack so that they wouldn't fall out when I removed the plate holder.  You only need two spacers.  The hole closest to the seat isn't deep enough to need a spacer.

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Edited by DuncR6, June 06, 2014 - 05:58 AM.


  • stevethe

Posted June 06, 2014 - 06:55 AM

#13

Ryco Motorsports has a nice plate holder that allows you to use your stock brake, tail light.  It also has holes in the side for mounting flush or stock style turn signals. http://www.rycomoto....es/default.aspx



  • hangerbaby

Posted June 06, 2014 - 11:21 AM

#14

Dunc that looks awesome! Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm definitely going to try your method first

  • hangerbaby

Posted June 09, 2014 - 06:41 PM

#15

Putting 12v to the yellow wire is not working to light up the brake lights. Tried from the switch as well as straight from the battery. Tested with a multimeter 12v going into the light, nothing happening. Any ideas? 






 
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