Dented Header. What to do?


32 replies to this topic
  • woods-rider

Posted May 27, 2014 - 06:54 PM

#1

I went for a ride on Monday and upon washing my bike when I got home I found this dent in my header. I don't know how it got there. I only went down once softly and it was on the left side, not the right side. Couldn't have been roost since I was leading  the whole time, but nevertheless its there. I have heard of people getting the dents out by filling the header with water and freezing it. My question is, does this work with the stock header since it has that power bomb chamber? Also, is there much performance to be gained by going aftermarket? I have an FMF powercore4 pipe and had to use their reducer to mate it up to the stock header. This leads me to believe that the FMF headers may be a larger diameter? I ride primarily on the bottom end, rarely getting above 8k rpm (I know this since I have a TrailTech Voyager and it keeps track of my RPM and I can look at a map of it after the ride).

 

Anyways, just looking for some advice before I make any decisions.

 

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  • stevethe

Posted May 27, 2014 - 07:04 PM

#2

The freeze might work if you also fill the power bomb? or maybe fill right before it and try.  Anyways you might not have too much to loose.

 

I was not a fan of the FMF power bomb on the 08' picked up some bottom and lost top.



  • woods-rider

Posted May 27, 2014 - 07:33 PM

#3

The freeze might work if you also fill the power bomb? or maybe fill right before it and try.  Anyways you might not have too much to loose.

 

I was not a fan of the FMF power bomb on the 08' picked up some bottom and lost top.

 

 

Is there packing or anything in the bomb part that I should be concerned with getting wet?

 

It's true, I don't have much to lose.

 

As for moving the power down in the range, I would be fine with that. Like I said, I almost never get above 8k and the vast majority of the time I am between 5k and 6k.



  • agave248

Posted May 27, 2014 - 07:41 PM

#4

does"nt look that bad to me. body shops use a a stud welding attachment to an arc welder. if you want to pull the dent out this is probably you best option. 



  • woods-rider

Posted May 27, 2014 - 07:43 PM

#5

does"nt look that bad to me. body shops use a a stud welding attachment to an arc welder. if you want to pull the dent out this is probably you best option. 

 

It really isn't that bad, I mean, I didn't even notice a difference in power at all that I can remember.



  • guru

Posted May 27, 2014 - 08:23 PM

#6

Pacific Crest Pipe Repair in Oregon has been doing it for ages. Like $60 nowdays

  • YZX

Posted May 27, 2014 - 08:31 PM

#7

Go to a body shop and ask them to pull it out for you. Buy em coffees or doughnuts and they'll take care of you.

  • stevethe

Posted May 28, 2014 - 04:50 AM

#8

Is there packing or anything in the bomb part that I should be concerned with getting wet?

 

It's true, I don't have much to lose.

 

As for moving the power down in the range, I would be fine with that. Like I said, I almost never get above 8k and the vast majority of the time I am between 5k and 6k.

 

No packing in the bomb. Usually a small hole from the pipe to the bomb. However I would first try freezing before the bomb. Sometimes you have to thaw right at the dent and refreeze a few times, it's free.

 

The only other problem with the FMF mega bomb titanium pipe was it was thin and prone to dents.



  • woods-rider

Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:08 AM

#9

Pacific Crest Pipe Repair in Oregon has been doing it for ages. Like $60 nowdays

 

Good to know, I'll keep them in mind.

 

Go to a body shop and ask them to pull it out for you. Buy em coffees or doughnuts and they'll take care of you.

 

This is definitely an option.

 

No packing in the bomb. Usually a small hole from the pipe to the bomb. However I would first try freezing before the bomb. Sometimes you have to thaw right at the dent and refreeze a few times, it's free.

 

The only other problem with the FMF mega bomb titanium pipe was it was thin and prone to dents.

 

I think I will try the freezer trick first since it seems to be the most convenient.

 

I tried a titanium header years ago... NEVER again! The thing was like tissue paper, especially when hot. They make the mega bomb in stainless, don't they? Pricy headers though at $300+.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:30 AM

#10

Just put water in it, tape off the end, and tilt it up in the freezer so the dent is at the lowest point

 

It will take at least 3 tries to push it out all the way



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  • avlisj

Posted May 28, 2014 - 07:19 AM

#11

USE CAUTION!
I did this to a gnarly two stroke pipe. First freeze did good, thawed and refilled pipe, put it back in to try and get it perfect and it split the pipe at a seam about 2in long at expansion chamber. Since I left the ends open I thought the ice would expand out those openings, I was wrong. Used plastic and rubberbands to hold water in till it froze.
Good luck

  • woods-rider

Posted May 28, 2014 - 07:33 AM

#12

USE CAUTION!
I did this to a gnarly two stroke pipe. First freeze did good, thawed and refilled pipe, put it back in to try and get it perfect and it split the pipe at a seam about 2in long at expansion chamber. Since I left the ends open I thought the ice would expand out those openings, I was wrong. Used plastic and rubberbands to hold water in till it froze.
Good luck

 

Yeah, I have heard of that happening on two stroke pipes, but have not heard it happening for a thumper header. It's probably because the smoker pipe holds more water and thus, has more expansion when the water freezes.



  • JVP

Posted May 28, 2014 - 12:57 PM

#13

Freezing should work.  It is in a good spot. 



  • woods-rider

Posted May 28, 2014 - 01:21 PM

#14

Freezing should work.  It is in a good spot. 

 

Good to know. I'll try it tonight and let you guys know how it looks in the morning.


Edited by woods-rider, May 28, 2014 - 01:21 PM.


  • stevethe

Posted May 28, 2014 - 02:37 PM

#15

Just put water in it, tape off the end, and tilt it up in the freezer so the dent is at the lowest point

 

It will take at least 3 tries to push it out all the way

He's right 3 x then the dent should disappear. I like to use a heat gun on the dent area to defrost and try to leave the other ends somewhat frozen then refreeze. 



  • woods-rider

Posted May 28, 2014 - 07:20 PM

#16

so I did one freeze thaw round and I could see no difference in the dent. I'll leave it in overnight this time and check it in the morning, but I am thinking I need a better plug on the ends.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted May 29, 2014 - 05:04 AM

#17

You don't need a 'plug'. 

Just keep re-freezing



  • bobpara

Posted May 29, 2014 - 06:05 AM

#18

The freezing is a good idea, but I think the metal may be too thick and strong

The sure fire way to do it is as follows (I've done it so I know it works)

Get two rubber freeze plugs from the car parts store, the kind where you tighten the nut and they expand

Drill a small hole in the end of one and kinda press-fit some sort of rigid tubing in one end and seal with glue, tape, etc

Plug both ends of the pipe, heat the dented area cherry red, a propane torch MAY get it hot enough

Once the area gets cherry red, push 100 psi air from a compressor at it

Use some sort of on/off control so you can pulse the air and not over pressurize it and blow it out too far!

 

The parts should cost about $10 and I think the pref way is to find a friend with an oxy/acetelene torch that will get

it really hot, really quick. If you have to use a propane torch you will need hot gloves and you may even melt the rubber end plugs because it heats up so slowly



  • stevethe

Posted May 29, 2014 - 06:19 AM

#19

You might try to wrap a rag around the dent so it freezes last. Also when you thaw out the dent area you try to leave the ends plugged with ice. It takes several times in any case and then it goes.



  • woods-rider

Posted May 29, 2014 - 06:26 AM

#20

The freezing is a good idea, but I think the metal may be too thick and strong

The sure fire way to do it is as follows (I've done it so I know it works)

Get two rubber freeze plugs from the car parts store, the kind where you tighten the nut and they expand

Drill a small hole in the end of one and kinda press-fit some sort of rigid tubing in one end and seal with glue, tape, etc

Plug both ends of the pipe, heat the dented area cherry red, a propane torch MAY get it hot enough

Once the area gets cherry red, push 100 psi air from a compressor at it

Use some sort of on/off control so you can pulse the air and not over pressurize it and blow it out too far!

 

The parts should cost about $10 and I think the pref way is to find a friend with an oxy/acetelene torch that will get

it really hot, really quick. If you have to use a propane torch you will need hot gloves and you may even melt the rubber end plugs because it heats up so slowly

 

Thanks, I may try this if the freezing doesn't end up working for me.

 

You might try to wrap a rag around the dent so it freezes last. Also when you thaw out the dent area you try to leave the ends plugged with ice. It takes several times in any case and then it goes.

 

I'll try the rag tonight for some added insulation, that's a good idea.






 
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