Reversing the Carnage



66 replies to this topic
  • Krannie McKranface

Posted June 30, 2014 - 06:26 PM

#41

That is the difference between a "smog" carb and a performance carb.

 

That, and the fact that my slide rattled around in the bore like a crackhead walking down a hallway....



  • Spider-One

Posted June 30, 2014 - 08:16 PM

#42

As a hallway I take offense to your comment...

  • grayracer513

Posted July 01, 2014 - 06:08 AM

#43

What will it do for the gas consumption?

 

Depends how the engine is tuned and jetted overall (and how it's used), but quite often it will improve it.



  • stevethe

Posted July 01, 2014 - 06:54 AM

#44

Remember the YZ carb has a different needle jet and matching needle. I am using the NFLR needle. Also my carbs go off to Zip ty racing for the needle jet and the back of the carb to be drilled into. (Called the emulsion tube modification.) He seems to not mess anything up.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 12, 2014 - 02:39 PM

#45

Carb is working great. 

Should have changed it 9 mo ago!

 

 

Still frustrated with the YZ forks I added to the WR, I thought maybe it was time to get out the calipers, and see what the heck was going on. The fetl like they were still binding.

Turns out that:

- The front wheel (rim) sits 2.0mm too close to the caliper side. Can't tell if it's the build of the wheel or not.
- The forks are being spread apart by the 'super trick' Dough Henry Triple clamps. They are 3mm farther apart at the lower end of the forks when all is tight.
- The wheel spacers used in the Excel hubs are not true! I filed them down by hand and now they spin true in the hub. I also trued the mating surface on the forks. 
Now the wheel spins absolutely free, with everything tight.
- I continued to file down the wheel spacers to try and get some of the 'bow' out of the forks. I filed both sides to remove about .5mm total, so now the forks get closer together when you tighten the axle. No where near enough, but it's noticablely smoother in fork action.

 

I'm gonna take these DH clamps off, and install the ones that came with the Ebay YZ forks, assuming that will help with the fork straightness, and continue to file down the spacers.

 

It can only get better..........


Edited by Kah Ran Nee, July 12, 2014 - 02:40 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 13, 2014 - 12:44 PM

#46

OK, that worked so well, I am going to post up a tutorial on front wheel setting / fork alignment, soon. 



  • cubera

Posted July 13, 2014 - 02:54 PM

#47

If you really want to be bored to death, but also get an idea of how much trouble I had with the gearing, and the rocks, take a look at this, starting at 7:00 min point.

Most of the time I was pushing the bike as I tried to slip the clutch. If I let the clutch out all the way, that's 8mph at idle, so with some throttle I needed to be able to maintain about 12mph to actually ride the bike.

 

...lots of stopping and catching my breath and looking for alternate lines in this video.....in the end Ben and Alex came down the hill and helped me out.....then my cam battery dies, so we never even get to see the really hard stuff afterwards.

 

Bill that spot you're in is ugly even when you're set up for it the right way. I can barely waddle over that kind of terrain even on the 300XC-W geared low with a Rekluse. I did a qualifier format enduro once where almost every test was like that....and the water crossings too.


Edited by cubera, July 13, 2014 - 02:56 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 13, 2014 - 02:58 PM

#48

Yeah, it's a nice place to visit (?) but not to live

 

I like flow. 

 

To me it's only a 'technical trail' if you can ride it without putting your feet down. Not nessearily me, but someone besides Teddy B. should be able to ride it with only dabbing.

 

 

If you have to put your feet down for more than some assistance then it becomes an obstacle trail.............



  • cubera

Posted July 13, 2014 - 03:04 PM

#49

I'm running 13/50 (stock) gearing on the WR now. Will probably go to 13/48 when these sprockets wear out which would extend wheelbase a little and maybe improve range. If I were doing that type of terrain more often the WR would not be my first choice. I'm thinking a YZ250 with a Rekluse with be a better choice for that crap.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 13, 2014 - 03:12 PM

#50

I'm running 14/50, and it was perfect for today' kind of riding......just barely.

None of the really step sections last very long.

 

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  • KennyMc

Posted July 13, 2014 - 09:47 PM

#51

I'm running 14/50, and it was perfect for today' kind of riding......just barely.

None of the really step sections last very long.

 

10506654_10204582879598816_3826562880468

This guy should have brought his mtn. bike, much easier to push :goofy:



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted July 21, 2014 - 10:42 AM

#52

I'm running 14/50, and it was perfect for today' kind of riding......just barely.

None of the really step sections last very long.

 

10382037_10204582872118629_272335517346610495580_10204582879278808_499526211882110506654_10204582879598816_3826562880468

 

 

 

I  HATE rutted climbs !  They are my nemesis.  Any tips on mastering them ?



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:33 PM

#53

I  HATE rutted climbs !  They are my nemesis.  Any tips on mastering them ?

 

Slide up on the tank as far as you can go

Put all your weight on the pegs NOT on the seat.

Do not take your feet of  the pegs accept to keep your balance

Do NOT PUT YOUR FEET ON THE GROUND or dab.

Rock your weight back and forth, crawling over the bike, to keep your line and balance

Use your core and arms to keep you up on the bike.

Crack the throttle, and LEAVE IT THERE. Do not shut off no matter what.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:34 PM

#54



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:36 PM

#55

Here's a nice soft rutted down hill

 


Edited by Kah Ran Nee, July 21, 2014 - 02:39 PM.


  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:38 PM

#56

Slide up on the tank as far as you can go

Put all your weight on the pegs NOT on the seat.

Do not take your feet of  the pegs accept to keep your balance

Do NOT PUT YOUR FEET ON THE GROUND or dab.

Rock your weight back and forth, crawling over the bike, to keep your line and balance

Use your core and arms to keep you up on the bike.

Crack the throttle, and LEAVE IT THERE. Do not shut off no matter what.

 

So what happens when you do this and the front wheel washes out on rocks in the rut ?   Or what if the rut is deeper and narrower than the rut in the pictures ?  

 

Where I get into trouble is when I need to steer the bike one way to keep it balanced and the rut won't allow me to.   Thinking about it further, I don't have problems with rutted hillclimbs, I just have problems with ruts !  LOL.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:42 PM

#57

Use the rut

Follow the rut

More power



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted July 21, 2014 - 02:54 PM

#58

Use the rut

Follow the rut

More power

 

What do you mean, "use the rut ?"  LOL ! 

 

Some of the hills we climb are rut fests.  Sometime the rut is deep, sometime there is a line beside the rut... ruts are like magnets, just waiting to suck one wheel of the bike in !  Nothing worse that getting the rear wheel in the rut and doing a combined wheelie/ highside trying to get it out...

 

I should take and post up some video...


Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy, July 21, 2014 - 02:54 PM.


  • Krannie McKranface

Posted July 21, 2014 - 03:45 PM

#59

Never try and get out of an uphill rut, once you are in it.



  • MidlifeCrisisGuy

Posted July 22, 2014 - 01:24 PM

#60

Thanks, Krannie.

 

Why do you recommend sitting forward rather than standing ?

 

What gear do you try to use on nasty rutted climbs ?  2nd for lots of momentum and then downshift if needed or wind out in 1st and concentrate throughout ?   My issue on rutted climbs is staying in control of the bike more than anything.






 
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