2012 WR450 electric start sucks!



27 replies to this topic
  • torkd14

Posted April 28, 2014 - 05:10 AM

#1

Just picked up a 2012 WR450 with only 18 hours on it. The electric start is pretty terrible once the engine is warm. I'll be racing this bike and the starts of the hare scrambles are fairly crucial when riding tight woods.

Is it possible to find a light weight battery with better cranking amps? I think all it needs is a little more juice.

  • yamaha.44

Posted April 28, 2014 - 05:18 AM

#2

Try adjusting your engine RPM's. I had the same problems you having and after the adjustment the electric start works like a champ!

  • funt

Posted April 28, 2014 - 06:04 AM

#3

Opening the throttle a few degrees usually helps for me on a hot restart.  If you still have the headlight, it stays lit after a stall unless you shut off the ignition.  I have mine on a dual sport switch.  I usually shut it off on a restart to get a little more juice.  Those batteries are supposed to help but I don't have one yet.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 28, 2014 - 06:28 AM

#4

Get a shorai 12 ah battery

  • vlxjim

Posted April 28, 2014 - 06:33 AM

#5

Check the idle 1900-2100 RPM. Get the FI Tool and kick up the CO. Works great for most of us that have done this.



  • torkd14

Posted April 28, 2014 - 12:46 PM

#6

Check the idle 1900-2100 RPM. Get the FI Tool and kick up the CO. Works great for most of us that have done this.


I have a power programmer but not sure what the FI tool is or kicking up the CO...

  • vlxjim

Posted April 29, 2014 - 08:34 AM

#7

Use the power programer to set your idle RPM"s. The cold start knob turns to set the RPM's, The FI diagnostic tool is used to set the idle CO (Fuel). Look up "FI diagnostic tool" and "Idle CO".

Read pages 6-9

http://www.thumperta...s/page-6#!Gngd8


Edited by vlxjim, April 29, 2014 - 08:39 AM.


  • torkd14

Posted April 29, 2014 - 06:32 PM

#8

Use the power programer to set your idle RPM"s. The cold start knob turns to set the RPM's, The FI diagnostic tool is used to set the idle CO (Fuel). Look up "FI diagnostic tool" and "Idle CO".
Read pages 6-9
http://www.thumperta...s/page-6#!Gngd8


Alright, I live in Canada and the cheapest FI tool I can find on ebay for this is $260... Absolutely absurd for a one time use tool. I'm gonna have to try a better battery first and go from there I guess.

  • Navaho6

Posted April 29, 2014 - 06:40 PM

#9

What mods are on the bike now?



  • torkd14

Posted April 30, 2014 - 04:38 AM

#10

What mods are on the bike now?


Comp ECU and everything taken off that was choking it up. I'm going to order a slip on silencer sometime soon haven't decided which yet. Also has a Z-start pro Rekluse which sucks and is probably getting yanked out lol.

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  • bobpara

Posted April 30, 2014 - 07:22 AM

#11

The one on my 2006 works pretty good with 1 exception.

Last winter the piston stopped exactly at TDC and the elec motor did not have enough nuts to turn the motor over

It was behaving like I had a dead battery

One small kick to the kick lever to get it past TDC and everything was fine

 

So, I took the long way around to say that in the interest of weight savings I think they put a barely capable system in there

A company by the name of Shorai make these high CCA batteries, but I would not expect too much extra



  • grayracer513

Posted April 30, 2014 - 08:07 AM

#12

Dealers will have the FI tool.  No need to buy it.  Go have one of them adjust it.



  • funt

Posted May 01, 2014 - 07:57 AM

#13

I tried 5 dealers and only 1 said they had the tool.  The tech seems like a real dick.  He said I need to drop the bike off and leave it there for a couple of days.  I'm not gonna bother adjusting it.


Edited by funt, May 02, 2014 - 04:59 AM.


  • torkd14

Posted May 03, 2014 - 06:08 AM

#14

I tried 5 dealers and only 1 said they had the tool. The tech seems like a real dick. He said I need to drop the bike off and leave it there for a couple of days. I'm not gonna bother adjusting it.



Haha I kinda figured the same thing would happen here too. Unfortunately dealers are just in it for money instead of the love of the sport like the old shops. I'll hunt down one of these FI tools eventually.

  • alstar250

Posted May 04, 2014 - 11:34 PM

#15

I have the GYTR Comp ECU and screw and once I went to the stock slip on from my 2007 YZ450 this thing starts right up if I even get my finger close to the button. I have ZERO starting issues with my bike. I had heard of the starting problems some were having even before I bought my bike, and I was even thinking I'd ditch the whole E-Start to save some weight anyway, but my bike starts so easily I'm always using it.



  • 5270ADVRIDER

Posted May 05, 2014 - 05:28 PM

#16

Ditto alstar250. I can't figure out how to make this bike not start. Lol



  • Navaho6

Posted May 05, 2014 - 06:05 PM

#17

I've got the comp ecu, fmf, mx mapping, reset CO.  Bike starts easy most of the time but can still be a little difficult after a hard stall sometimes.  Never more that two tries and it fires up.  If you kill the motor with the button, it restarts easy.



  • torkd14

Posted May 05, 2014 - 06:08 PM

#18

I'm definitely going to have to try a aftermarket silencer. Hopefully a little more flow will help with the top end and starting.

  • alstar250

Posted May 05, 2014 - 08:30 PM

#19

Ya for sure try that, my bike is on the stock map that cmes with the YZ ECU and I notice that at idle and right off idle the head pipe will start to glow at night, so its pretty lean for sure. Also dumb question, but are you guys all starting your bike in N? Admittedly my bike isn't so eager to fire up w/ E-Start in gear, so I always put it in neutral.

 

Also have you had your valves checked? 4T's have been known to start "stubborn" with even slightly tight valves, and you never know, your bike may have come that way or gotten that way Inadvertently . Its worth a check, no?



  • thejimmian

Posted May 05, 2014 - 08:38 PM

#20

Shorai is what you need. Mine is 2012 w shorai, fmf pipe, comp ecu, fmf map




 
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