How does a the clutch work on an 06 YZ450?


6 replies to this topic
  • 700rScott

Posted April 16, 2014 - 06:27 PM

#1

I know it may sound like a stupid question so read my whole question before trying to be a smart ass. Over the winter I traded my raptor 700 for a 2006 YZ450. When I got it, it worked fine. I changed the cable and put a asv perch on it, I noticed I had a bunch of slack so I called up and they sent me a few extenders. I put the extenders on and adjusted it so it works fine now. Here's the tricky part I go to start it up for the season and so I can get it inspected for the street plate. I fire it up, pull the clutch in, drop the shifter to 1st and it dies. I took it apart, looked at the plates and everything is fine, check the arm to make sure it pushes the pressure plate out and it does. I put it back together and still not disengaging. I get the bike started and push it down the hill to get it going, that freed it up and it seams to work normal. I go to check it today and it wasn't disengaging again but now I noticed if I get the Rpms up a little higher when I have the clutch pulled fully disengages. When I have the Rpms at a normal level on a flat ground with the clutch in it wants to pull the bike but still let's it run, when I bring the Rpms up a little higher, almost like when you have the choke on and it revs up. Around that level of rpm the bike doesn't want to pull forward on level ground so I know it's fully disengaged but then when the Rpms are up that high, I can't get it in neutral. So after reading my story what do you think? Am I doing something wrong? Is there something wrong with the clutch? The steal and friction plate look good, the pressure plate and basket look fine.

  • DC_Excitement

Posted April 17, 2014 - 06:02 AM

#2

does it make a difference if you remove all of the free play from the lever by tightening the cable?

 

did you have all of the plates out and make sure some aren't stuck together or even warped.?

 

what kind of oil are you running?


Edited by DC_Excitement, April 17, 2014 - 06:03 AM.


  • grayracer513

Posted April 17, 2014 - 06:49 AM

#3

What kind of plates are in the bike, and how old?



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  • 700rScott

Posted April 17, 2014 - 09:01 AM

#4

does it make a difference if you remove all of the free play from the lever by tightening the cable?

 

did you have all of the plates out and make sure some aren't stuck together or even warped.?

 

what kind of oil are you running?

It pulls harder with less free play at the low idle and I don't think they are warped. i'm running amsoil 10W-40

 

What kind of plates are in the bike, and how old?

I'm not sure how old or what they are since they were in the bike when I got it.



  • grayracer513

Posted April 17, 2014 - 09:03 AM

#5

The fault is probably with the plates.  Time in use may correct the "sticking" problem, but it may not.  Use a new set of OEM plates for the best results.

 

The adjustment is simple: 3mm slack at the lever.  If that doesn't work, it's time to look at the clutch itself. 



  • 700rScott

Posted April 17, 2014 - 09:15 AM

#6

Ok thanks, the plates look good so with the inspection done, I'll give it a good run on a few trails and hopefully it will go away. I check the basket for the groves and you could see spots were the plates are wearing the basket but it was fairly smooth to the touch, maybe a little indent but not much.



  • chevyrulz

Posted April 23, 2014 - 05:11 PM

#7

the basket fingers have to be smooth or the plates will stick & the clutch won't disengage

a set of fibers & steels is cheap, buy new ones, be sure to soak the fibers over night in your amsoil 10w40

if you file the basket, it will wear quicker, something about the coating or the hardening process I think?

I learned all about clutches the hard way. I bought a used bike, the previous owner had put a billet hinson clutch basket for the wrong year bike in it, the stack height of the fibers & steels was like 3mm different (too short), maybe less, but enough to make the clutch never fully disengage. I added an extra steel in the middle of the clutch stack, & bingo, stack height fixed, clutch disengages I also could've searched for a properly sized ball bearing to "shim" between the clutch rod & the throwout bearing but I was worried it would rub the pressure plate on the clutch cover so I didn't, plus that would've been asking for trouble. I shoulda bought a new basket but I couldn't afford it at the time. Bike ran great with the extra steel for 4 years, almost changed the bike's feel like adding weight to the flywheel too. I actually called & talked to Barnett clutches on the phone which is how I figured it out. nice guys @ Barnett for sure. now I know how a wet clutch works though!

Edited by chevyrulz, April 23, 2014 - 05:37 PM.






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