2014 yz450 mod?



24 replies to this topic
  • MESSMAKER

Posted April 08, 2014 - 10:54 AM

#1

I am wanting some input from people that have installed the radiator lowering mod and if anybody has done the gytr flywheel weight. Any help is really appreciated as I would like first hand use and if they are worth the coin.

  • MESSMAKER

Posted April 11, 2014 - 01:59 PM

#2

Come on guys someone has to of done these upgrades.

  • Hoosier-Daddy

Posted April 11, 2014 - 03:07 PM

#3

I'll bite. I have no experience with the newer fuel injected models, but the heavy flywheel made amazing positive improvements to my 09. Another thread posting now has guys talking about injectioneering making an even better improvement to their throttle body on their fuel injected bikes.

  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted April 11, 2014 - 05:30 PM

#4

I have the lradiator lowering mod.  Been using them since 2009, when you had to buy a DrD pipe to get it to fit.  I don't notice much of a change in handling. It lowers the radiators only an inch.  With water, that is probably only 3 or 4 lbs lowered an inch.  I have one I bought and another fellow gave me his for an older bike that I used for practice.  This year I had to combine the two kits. For 100 bucks, I wouldn't.  Heck the bike is pretty good stock.  I think all the Yamaha bikes from 2010 on up are all bullet proof and proven winners.

 

I don not like the location of the fill on the 2014.  Seems that mud likes to build up around the fill underneath the front portion of the removalble seat. I'm thinking that dirt is going to be a big issue in the fuel pump. Of course it is muddy this time of year, so that is a concern of mine right now. Mud falls down between the seat and gets everywhere.  Then that little damn around the front portion of the tank fill is so hard to clean with a rag.  Almost need to pressure spray it to fill it with gas.  

 

Not liking that aspect 

 

 

Another thing I noticed is that I changed the map right off the bat, per Yamaha.  Once in a while, the bike will "pop" loud going from deceleration to wacking the throttle.  Kinda like it is loaded up.  Just once and hour if I was to guess. It doesn't do it more than once a day.  

 

That got me thinking about the mud and dirt in the tank........



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted April 11, 2014 - 05:32 PM

#5

If you do decide to get the Radiator lowering kit, make sure you get the $100 dollar one for the 2014.  It needs 16 pieces , including the bolts.  The old one only needed 12 before that.

 

Just FYI



  • MESSMAKER

Posted April 11, 2014 - 06:40 PM

#6

Thanks for the help. I also remapped mine almost immediately using what yahama has on their website. The flywheel is because the go track I ride a lot has some real tight technical stuff and it feels like even when it's "detuned" that it wants to either stall or be ridden hard. I know it's typical for a mx'er to act that way. I love the bike, as a whole package it is by far the best bike I've owned. Any suggestions on which skid plate to get?

  • rickallen124

Posted April 11, 2014 - 07:20 PM

#7

Cycra will have one available shortly and it's probably the best one for the money. JGR is helping them develop it.

  • grayracer513

Posted April 12, 2014 - 07:33 AM

#8

I can't see a flywheel doing anything but improving the bike by smoothing out the low end.  The engine is now head and shoulders the most powerful of all the MX four-strokes, being dyno'd at anywhere from 56-58 horsepower, so it's not like you're going to handicap the thing with a little more rotating mass.



  • Denaki

Posted April 12, 2014 - 12:50 PM

#9

I have the Dr D rad. Lowering kit but, before I got it try it, I added the 90 front tire and 20mm X-Trig clamps. I love the bike now as it completely change the front of the bike.

  • Ron Hamp

Posted April 12, 2014 - 02:39 PM

#10

I just worked on one that had the same problem poping on decal and then missing and poping on acceleration this was on pump fuel the rider is a pro and it bothered him he put some fuel from a can in and as he rode it more the poping had stoped for now we were thinking water in the pump fuel .Im also thinking that its in an area of the mapping that cant be adjusted we are talking about using a vortex on it we will definatley have one on his pro race bike when its done.

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  • grayracer513

Posted April 12, 2014 - 08:25 PM

#11

The hand held scanner tool that the Yamaha techs use is apparently capable of altering idle CO and a number of other things.  You might want to see how available it is to the public. 



  • DanielMerrick

Posted April 13, 2014 - 01:37 PM

#12

On my 2014 you just rotate the cold start nob (looks like a choke) on the throtle body and it rases the idel, counterclockwise to increase And clockwise to decrease, the power tuner is the first thing I bough now just gotta get a pipe now!

  • MESSMAKER

Posted April 13, 2014 - 07:00 PM

#13

I haven't had and popping issues so no sure about that. I just want it to not stall as easy in tight stuff. That's what flywheel weights do. Just curious which to go with. Gytr vs smarty or some other brand I haven't heard of.

  • CZRoger

Posted April 21, 2014 - 08:12 AM

#14

First time out with the Dr.D lowering kit this past weekend, put in a lot of laps. Mixed feelings about it, and definitely not a cure all. Front is more planted and confidence is up. Precise technique is a must as it will still step out on occasion. ymmv



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted April 23, 2014 - 05:20 PM

#15

changed my gas.  Pooping is gone out of the 2014. I still think the location of the fill underneath the seat with mud (and water after washing ) is the culprit. 

 

On another note.  I think the bike runs well, but it is hard to get a good start on the bike, or so it is for me. I know the springs in the clutch are 10 % stiffer, but I find the bike's clutch is like a light switch-on or off.

 

I am coming off 4 great years of the old style 10-13 bikes.  I almost always got the holeshot.  Stock bikes then and now. Just used a tuner to change mapping.  The old generation bike I used a 49 (one tooth more) sprocket.  This year I am using 49 (standard).

 

Anyone else have  issues with the clutch?  I got an old pack from a 2012  on the shelf, I might try it to see if it works better.  I think the modulation is just touchy.

I got about 10 hours on bike and 4 motos from 2 different weekends. 

 

I let my boy ride it and he thought the same thing about the clutch on starts. 

 

I am NOT buying a Hinson clutch.  It is just out of the question.  I will take the whole clutch out of another bike before that.

 

Any ideas??


Edited by Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens, April 23, 2014 - 05:25 PM.


  • MESSMAKER

Posted April 24, 2014 - 05:30 PM

#16

changed my gas.  Pooping is gone out of the 2014. I still think the location of the fill underneath the seat with mud (and water after washing ) is the culprit. 

 

On another note.  I think the bike runs well, but it is hard to get a good start on the bike, or so it is for me. I know the springs in the clutch are 10 % stiffer, but I find the bike's clutch is like a light switch-on or off.

 

I am coming off 4 great years of the old style 10-13 bikes.  I almost always got the holeshot.  Stock bikes then and now. Just used a tuner to change mapping.  The old generation bike I used a 49 (one tooth more) sprocket.  This year I am using 49 (standard).

 

Anyone else have  issues with the clutch?  I got an old pack from a 2012  on the shelf, I might try it to see if it works better.  I think the modulation is just touchy.

I got about 10 hours on bike and 4 motos from 2 different weekends. 

 

I let my boy ride it and he thought the same thing about the clutch on starts. 

 

I am NOT buying a Hinson clutch.  It is just out of the question.  I will take the whole clutch out of another bike before that.

 

Any ideas??

 

I am heavier at 230-240 and the clutch I think is one of the strong points. I have only done a half dozen starts or so but I felt like I have a lot of control. I am also running amsoil which i know makes a difference. I am also right at the ten hour mark so all should be fairly similar. I have not ridden a 10-13 but as far as what most people say the 14 is much better that those.



  • CZRoger

Posted April 28, 2014 - 07:51 AM

#17

I had thought about the clutch/race start issues, as I had not gotten a decent start on the new bike. Three holeshots this past weekend, no issue for me now.



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted April 29, 2014 - 08:44 AM

#18

I pulled the clutch apart. seemed to have a slight bur on the rod/shaft.  I just polished it.  Worked good.

 

I ripped two holeshots.  All is good. looks like it was machined a little rough at the end.  Just my observation.  Anyhow, it works good.  No light switch problems anymore.



  • sean3239

Posted April 29, 2014 - 06:34 PM

#19

Has anyone been able to get the GYTR flywheel weight yet? If so where? I definitely don't need all the horsepower like grayracer said..this darn abruptness off idle drives me crazy in ruts so I will give up some HP to get rid of that jolt. Its a little better than my 10 I had but still there. The other thing is the forks! nothing like what i've had before with Yamaha. I know there's threads on this issue but just mentioning it again....I only have 6 hours so I hope the 7-8 hour "magic" break in (I've read on here) will help. But overall, it is better than my 10 I had IMO. 


Edited by sean3239, April 29, 2014 - 06:35 PM.


  • Mutley53

Posted April 30, 2014 - 05:59 AM

#20

I'm still waiting on the GYTR flywheel weight I have on order. I'm optimistic about it helping with mid turn, on/off throttle handling. The bike handles well, it just seems when I start to get on the gas it is a little abrupt and therefore difficult to stick to a line. I've considered getting the radiator lowering kit, but decided to wait and try the flywheel first. I know the more aggressive I am the better the bike handles, but if the corner is loose it is harder to be aggressive.

As a side note, Dubach is now offering an engine relocation kit for the 2014. It made a huge difference on the 2010 I had, so I may try it out. It also costs less than the radiator lowering kit.





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