What oil do you run?



50 replies to this topic
  • wizbangdoodle

Posted March 25, 2014 - 09:18 PM

#1

Just curious as to what oil you run in your WR.  I'm using a semi syn now and it seems to work fine.  Just wondering if there is anything I am missing.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted March 26, 2014 - 05:40 AM

#2

As long as you run Motorcycle oil that is rated JASCO MA, you are not missing anything.



  • DuncR6

Posted March 26, 2014 - 09:38 AM

#3

Amsoil.



  • flyandride

Posted March 26, 2014 - 10:41 AM

#4

Rotella T6



  • grayracer513

Posted March 26, 2014 - 01:30 PM

#5

As long as you run Motorcycle oil that is rated JASCO MA, you are not missing anything.

 

JASO.  Either MA or MA2.  Never MB.

 

'Wish that were true, but it isn't as often as it should be.  Getting better, though.



  • RMK800

Posted March 26, 2014 - 07:08 PM

#6

Rotella T6 21.50 full Synthetic at Walmart. Plus there is a 5.00 rebate until the end of April. 16.00 is a great deal for full synthetic JSO certified.

  • mrgem

Posted March 28, 2014 - 04:55 PM

#7

Rotella T6

Ditto on the Shell Rotella Full Syn.



  • 67imp

Posted April 01, 2014 - 04:30 PM

#8

rotella as well.

  • wizbangdoodle

Posted April 01, 2014 - 05:48 PM

#9

Wow, I had no idea Rotella was so popular.  Any particular reason Rotella is everyones oil of choice?



  • RMK800

Posted April 01, 2014 - 07:12 PM

#10

Three reasons.... JASO certified, full synthetic, and cheap. IMO you can't buy a better oil for the price. I put it in EVERYTHING from Dirtbikes, lawn mower, snow blower and of course my Diesel.

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  • mrgem

Posted April 01, 2014 - 07:32 PM

#11

Wow, I had no idea Rotella was so popular.  Any particular reason Rotella is everyones oil of choice?

 

As RMK said, at 5 bucks and change a quart, it is substantially less expensive than those oils touted as being uniquely suited for the specific rigors that go with motorcycle operation. And it meets or exceeds the JASO-MA standards (although Shell hasn't applied for JASO certification - as far as I know). It is by all accounts, the highest-quality oil you can buy at less than 22 bucks a gallon. This makes a difference if you like to change your oil frequently. 

 

Read this for some of the technical details:

http://motorcycleinf....com/Oils1.html



  • Elkjunkie

Posted April 05, 2014 - 12:34 AM

#12

So I shouldn't use my mobile delvac 15w-40. I got a few gallons for free but it doesn't say jaso. Good thing I have a diesel lawnmower. I'll be another rotella guy next change.

  • YHGEORGE

Posted April 05, 2014 - 02:58 PM

#13

So I shouldn't use my mobile delvac 15w-40. I got a few gallons for free but it doesn't say jaso. Good thing I have a diesel lawnmower. I'll be another rotella guy next change.

I wouldn't hesitate to use the Delvac. Or Chevron Delo, both great oils. Much ado about nothing!



  • funt

Posted April 05, 2014 - 05:07 PM

#14

Synthetics are too slippery for the clutch if they're not rated for it.  Conventional oil won't kill the clutch.  I would avoid synthetic blends to be on the safe side.  I use rotella T6


Edited by funt, April 05, 2014 - 05:08 PM.


  • mrgem

Posted April 05, 2014 - 07:52 PM

#15

Synthetics are too slippery for the clutch if they're not rated for it.  Conventional oil won't kill the clutch.  I would avoid synthetic blends to be on the safe side.  I use rotella T6

In my experience, the clutch plates in a wet clutch do not care if an oil is dino or synthetic or a partial synthetic. What they do care about is whether the oil contains friction modifies like molybdenum. They blends are typically only 15% synthetic, anyway, which doesn't justify their higher price.

 

You can usually tell an oil with a bunch of friction modifier by a round stamp on the lable that says "Energy Conserving." Most 10w30 oil has this stamp as well as some other oils.   I've run Rotella T6 (as you pointed out -- a full synthetic) in all my road and trail bikes for many years. I agree with you that T6 is a superior oil. Wouldn't use anything else.

 

It actually helped the clutch on an old KLR Kawasaki I used to own. Using Kawasaki oil (K-Tech 4 Stroke), the plates would sometimes stick. I switched to Rotella and the  problem was solved.



  • Trixster8

Posted April 06, 2014 - 06:11 AM

#16

Do you guys think it's safe to break in a big bore kit with T6? I came across an article that said not to use synthetic oil for engine break in. Just wanted some other opinions.

  • Nuklhed

Posted August 22, 2014 - 02:57 PM

#17

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I'm considering switching to this stuff just because I have a bunch of it.  Any issues, like clutch slippage I should worry about?  I ran it in my KTM 525 with no worries--other than it getting filthy at 150 miles...like clockwork.


By the way, Amazon says, "Exceeds API SL and JASO MA-2."



  • underground-mpyre

Posted August 23, 2014 - 03:44 AM

#18

Also a big fan of Rotella T6. I put that sh!t in everything. I have been instructed to change my oil every 300 miles(of course only an estimation) and Rotella is a cheap and durable way to go.



  • guru

Posted August 23, 2014 - 08:52 AM

#19

I have been told no syn for break in as it won't let rings seat properly.

  • Nuklhed

Posted August 24, 2014 - 07:55 AM

#20

I'm past break-in.  At nearly 200 miles on the odo.  First oil change was about 25 miles.  This'll be number 2.






 
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