ECU question on 2013 wr450f


17 replies to this topic
  • frogeye

Posted March 25, 2014 - 12:17 PM

#1

First of all thank you for your help. I just got a brand new WR and I want to in cork it.

This morning I removed the exhaust baffle in the stock can. My bike did not like it at all. It would start warm up and shut off. If I'm not mistaken I think removing the restrictive baffle creates a lean mixture and the ecu protects the bike by shutting down.

I started it about 5 different times. Each time it would shutoff. I decided to put the baffle back in and it idles like it should.

What do I need to do to let the ecu reset? Do I just disconnect it from the battery/reconnect?

Also... After seeing how crazy restrictive that muffler is I'm going to be adding a slip on muffler to my mod list. And, I've got the comp ECU coming.

Thanks for your help and advice.

  • frogeye

Posted March 25, 2014 - 12:18 PM

#2

Oh ya I've got 65 mes on it so only like 2 or 3 hours.

  • vlxjim

Posted March 25, 2014 - 02:36 PM

#3

I run the FMF Q4 Hex slip on and like it a lot. Don't forget this bike idles at 1900-2100 rpm. Most find that the idle is set way to low. The power programer shows the RPMs. Or you can use a meter with a tach.



  • frogeye

Posted March 25, 2014 - 04:25 PM

#4

I run the FMF Q4 Hex slip on and like it a lot. Don't forget this bike idles at 1900-2100 rpm. Most find that the idle is set way to low. The power programer shows the RPMs. Or you can use a meter with a tach.


Cool thanks for the info I'll take a look at that slip on.

  • funt

Posted April 04, 2014 - 07:04 AM

#5

Would you hurt anything by keeping the idle lower than recommended?  I figure it would be easier to stall if you're not careful, but anything else besides that?  I dual sport and get stuck at long red lights sometimes.  I figure it might help a little with gas mileage.  What do you think?



  • GP1K

Posted April 04, 2014 - 07:44 AM

#6

Would you hurt anything by keeping the idle lower than recommended?  I figure it would be easier to stall if you're not careful, but anything else besides that?  I dual sport and get stuck at long red lights sometimes.  I figure it might help a little with gas mileage.  What do you think?

 

Yes, makes the bike a lot harder to start, especially when hot.



  • vlxjim

Posted April 04, 2014 - 08:08 AM

#7

It also make the bike run hotter. I know that sounds weird to some. But the higher RPM spins the water pump faster, moves more air through the engine. And thats were the fuel table for the idle is set. 



  • funt

Posted April 04, 2014 - 09:31 AM

#8

I didn't think about that.  I did stall today with it set around 1800-1850.  I better keep it within specs.



  • frogeye

Posted April 04, 2014 - 09:27 PM

#9

:ride:

I went back out to Ocotillo Wells today with my mods done.  I put 75 more miles on it today. 

 

WOW!

 

Slip on gytr FMF pipe

remove throttle stop

Comp ECU

 

What a difference!

 

The bike was a dog in it's stock CA restricted form.  But now....SWEET!

 

I'm assuming the ECUs learn from your riding style?  I didin't put a map on the new Comp ECU, I just plugged it in.  I found a local shop that is going to put a nice desert map on it for me.

 

I don't miss my CRF450R anymore.  My WR has gone beast mode.



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  • YZ250SubGuy

Posted April 16, 2014 - 12:08 PM

#10

:ride:

I went back out to Ocotillo Wells today with my mods done.  I put 75 more miles on it today. 

 

WOW!

 

Slip on gytr FMF pipe

remove throttle stop

Comp ECU

 

What a difference!

 

The bike was a dog in it's stock CA restricted form.  But now....SWEET!

 

I'm assuming the ECUs learn from your riding style?  I didin't put a map on the new Comp ECU, I just plugged it in.  I found a local shop that is going to put a nice desert map on it for me.

 

I don't miss my CRF450R anymore.  My WR has gone beast mode.

 

:ride:

I went back out to Ocotillo Wells today with my mods done.  I put 75 more miles on it today. 

 

WOW!

 

Slip on gytr FMF pipe

remove throttle stop

Comp ECU

 

What a difference!

 

The bike was a dog in it's stock CA restricted form.  But now....SWEET!

 

I'm assuming the ECUs learn from your riding style?  I didin't put a map on the new Comp ECU, I just plugged it in.  I found a local shop that is going to put a nice desert map on it for me.

 

I don't miss my CRF450R anymore.  My WR has gone beast mode.

I run the Aussie map.  I have the Comp. ECU, snorkel removed and a Rocket Exhaust with the FIM insert and spark arrestor.  This thing hauls the mail! A less restrictive exhaust will probably give you more, but I like to keep the noise down below 96db.

http://transmoto.com...ha-wr450f-maps/



  • GP1K

Posted April 16, 2014 - 01:06 PM

#11

:ride:

I went back out to Ocotillo Wells today with my mods done.  I put 75 more miles on it today. 

 

WOW!

 

Slip on gytr FMF pipe

remove throttle stop

Comp ECU

 

What a difference!

 

The bike was a dog in it's stock CA restricted form.  But now....SWEET!

 

I'm assuming the ECUs learn from your riding style?  I didin't put a map on the new Comp ECU, I just plugged it in.  I found a local shop that is going to put a nice desert map on it for me.

 

I don't miss my CRF450R anymore.  My WR has gone beast mode.

 

Right on. I found the bike rideable bone-stock, but pretty mellow. But once you desrict it, it's another beast entirely.

 

Unfortunately no, the FI system on dirt bikes is not as sophisticated as what's in cars, or even street bikes. It cannot 'learn' or adjust on the fly like auto systems can... yet. So the default map on the comp ECU is ok, way better than the stocker, obviously, but using the tuner can really change the power delivery to suit your riding conditions/terrain. In your case, I'd imagine you'd want and even snappier map than the default. If your shop has a good map, I think you'll be pleasantly surprised at the results. :ride:



  • guru

Posted April 17, 2014 - 08:31 AM

#12

I was gonna run it stock for break in but the pipe would get red hot on a mellow run in the wind on a cool day.  So I ditched the stock ecu asap.  I ran the default map on the comp ecu and it was waaay better than the stock.  Now I run the map suggested in the GYTR/FMF sheet that came with my Powercore pipe and holy shiiiit did it come alive.  From sea level to 7000 ft wide open dez to tight woods this bike rips.  I find it a bit twitcy on the street as the hit comes on quickly.  I'm gonna play with some more maps and keep the results on the tuner for comparison.    


Edited by guru, April 17, 2014 - 08:32 AM.


  • frogeye

Posted April 17, 2014 - 10:28 AM

#13

I was gonna run it stock for break in but the pipe would get red hot on a mellow run in the wind on a cool day. So I ditched the stock ecu asap. I ran the default map on the comp ecu and it was waaay better than the stock. Now I run the map suggested in the GYTR/FMF sheet that came with my Powercore pipe and holy shiiiit did it come alive. From sea level to 7000 ft wide open dez to tight woods this bike rips. I find it a bit twitcy on the street as the hit comes on quickly. I'm gonna play with some more maps and keep the results on the tuner for comparison.


My local bike mechanic told me he will load a map for $40. So I'm SoCal sea level desert riding. I need to load that map ;-). Thanks for your info.

  • GP1K

Posted April 17, 2014 - 01:05 PM

#14

My local bike mechanic told me he will load a map for $40. So I'm SoCal sea level desert riding. I need to load that map ;-). Thanks for your info.

 

Man that kinda sucks, as it literally takes 30 seconds to load a map. But if you don't have the GYTR tuner, you're SOL and they run just under $300. Then again, if you ride all or mostly desert, if you get the right map in there the first time, you may not need to touch it again. So $40 is a lot better than $300!



  • frogeye

Posted April 18, 2014 - 06:42 AM

#15

Man that kinda sucks, as it literally takes 30 seconds to load a map. But if you don't have the GYTR tuner, you're SOL and they run just under $300. Then again, if you ride all or mostly desert, if you get the right map in there the first time, you may not need to touch it again. So $40 is a lot better than $300!


I know. I need to decide if I need another $300 toy that I'll rarely use.

  • guru

Posted April 18, 2014 - 08:27 AM

#16

I'm in SF so I probably can't help.  Unless you want to send me your ECU and I'll load and send it back for the cost of postage.  Any So Cal riders of FI WR450s you can find?  Is this the shop you purchased the bike at?  Mine would do it for free.  Ultimately unless you can convince your buddies to buy one you will want to throw down the dough for the tuner.  It is like a radio stuck on one station, even if it's a damn good station.  



  • guru

Posted April 18, 2014 - 10:01 AM

#17

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1397844000.644850.jpg

Here is the map I love 2nd from top. Pretty aggressive combo of fuel and ignition. Correction: it came with ECU not pipe.

  • funt

Posted April 18, 2014 - 02:33 PM

#18

Fuel infected YZ riders might have the programmer too.  You can get one for around $210 if you shop around.  I imagine a Yamaha dealer would have one you could use but maybe not.


Edited by funt, April 18, 2014 - 02:34 PM.





 
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