Oil for a 2010 yz450f


24 replies to this topic
  • Jmill14

Posted March 25, 2014 - 07:06 AM

#1

Brand new owner last night. Clearly there are tons of option. I don't race but want to do right by the bike. Which oil and filters are u using? SORRY as I'm sure this has been covered 100's of time. Searched and didn't get a lot.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 25, 2014 - 08:42 AM

#2

Oh boy, another oil thread.

 

Read: http://www.thumperta...97#entry2132297

 

I currently use Mobil 1 Racing 4T or Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (MCF), both in 10w-40

 

Filters, I have used only Scotts Stainless Steel filters for 7 or 8 years now.  The one currently in my bike is that old.

 

http://www.thumperta...-2#entry3831885

 

Did you get a manual?



  • Jmill14

Posted March 25, 2014 - 09:23 AM

#3

Yep, he had a manual and a tuner for it. Pretty excited to ride it but don't want to do any damage first time out.

  • yamahakid88

Posted March 26, 2014 - 03:54 PM

#4

Rotella-T 15w-40



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 07:03 AM

#5

My .02.

 

Any oil that is JASO MA certified, meaning that it is listed in a square box on the label. Many oils claim to "meet" JASO MA certification they will simply list it in the list of "meets" this isn't quite the same thing though and is a confusing way to say that the oil doesn't contain moly friction additives that would affect wet clutch performace not that it it optimal for your engine. This excludes any diesel engine oils from my list, sorry folks.. Your engine will not self destruct using it but it's far from optimal.

 

Most if not all racing 4t engine oils are certified and pretty good, prices are all over the place so be careful choosing. My recommendation due to talking to KTM factory mechanics is Motorex 10-50 cross power full syn (look on ebay for smoking deal, Rocky Mtn MC is next best price I've found). If on a budget I've ran Yamahalube 10-50 semi syn, seemed slippery and Yamaha has a repuation for selling great oil over the years so I can sleep well using either.



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 07:11 AM

#6

As far as filters go, you can score hiflofiltero? whatever brand for cheap on ebay and the more you buy the cheaper they are, I grab a dozen at a time for around 4.00 bucks a piece. They are OEM quality and probably the OE supplier.

I change filter every oil change at that price! Oh and I throw a mag drain plug in my scooters, can't hurt.



  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2014 - 07:26 AM

#7

If you are going to buy filters on price, consider:

 

If one buys filters for $4 each and does two oil changes per month, that's $96 in a year.

 

I bought ONE Scotts stainless filter for $70 for my '06, and have been using it since January of 2007....  That's $70 vs. $696.

 

http://www.thumperta...-2#entry3831885



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 07:39 AM

#8

If you are going to buy filters on price, consider:

 

If one buys filters for $4 each and does two oil changes per month, that's $96 in a year.

 

I bought ONE Scotts stainless filter for $70 for my '06, and have been using it since January of 2007....  That's $70 vs. $696.

 

http://www.thumperta...-2#entry3831885

 

Totally agree tha the long term cost savings is good with a reuseable filter but I would probably stick my head in an oven if I make one more chore for myself in the garage (two old dirtbikes and eight bicycles keeps me busy, not to mention our fleet of one to two decade old vehicles) plus if I'm not mistaken the micron filtering of a paper element is greater than a stainless filter? The hippie in me hates throwing the paper ones in the trash bin though... Such painful choices



  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2014 - 08:02 AM

#9

... if I'm not mistaken the micron filtering of a paper element is greater than a stainless filter?

 

It is, and it isn't.  "Paper" filters will catch smaller particles, but also let bigger ones pass.  Read the link I posted.



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 08:31 AM

#10

Still the messy business of me sticking head in the oven whilst cleaning two more filters requiring yet another cleaning station in the garage, I assume you don't use the same nasty solvent that the air filters see? I'm a wack job about clean so I would probably blow through a can of brake cleaner each cleaning also...

What is your procedure for cleaning? and what about fear of the filter becoming clogged or restricted over time as small metal particles become embedded?

 

I don't think theres a wrong answer here just wondering, I really do hate throwing away filters soaked in oil (I let them drain in a bucket with oil dry in the bottom to get the majority out). I'm too embarassed to take them to the recycling center where I dispose of the car filters.



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  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2014 - 09:03 AM

#11

Nothing but air filters ever goes into that bucket. :eek:

 

The filter will filter everything, even the solvent you dip it in.  I'll assume you have some way of washing parts other than air filters, so just use that.  I hold the filter by the ends between two fingers, closing off the inside where the clean oil lives, and swish it around a little, then take it out, rinse from the inside out with carb cleaner, then compressed air.  You can use solvents, soap and water, Simple Green, whatever, to clean them.

 

There is something like 6-7 square inches of 35 micron medical stainless mesh in the element. For any particle to become "embedded" it would need to be of a precise size; large enough not to fall through, small enough to "stick" in the square hole without just falling off in the wash. After 7 years on the same filter, there is no evidence of any such thing happening.



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 09:35 AM

#12

I don't have a parts washer in my garage, I do look a them at harbor freight though.. sigh... I just use a tub for the air filters solvent wash and shop sink in basement for soapy water wash.

Need to hit the lotto to get everything I need for the garage!

Probably stick to paper ones for now for the convience factor, it's handy as the 03 and 08 take the same filter. The hiprofilter deal on ebay is pretty good, 4.00 dollars vs 8.00 for a OEM and 5.00-6.00 bucks from mailorder houses for same filter. I usually don't use any aftermarket stuff but from what I've read they are the largest OE supplier and the filter looks the same (pretty sure it is) as most of the aftermarket offerings from Moose, twin-air etc...

Of course I'll be bummed out after next weekend as both bikes are gonna get the snot run out of them for three days and I'm doing two oil changes, at least two maybe four airfilters, two sets of tire changes... Plus anything that manages to rattle off or break...

 

I'll never complain too much about having such a terrible 1st world problem as having to service all my toys...



  • Rocky739

Posted March 28, 2014 - 09:48 AM

#13

My appologies to the OP for the poach of the topic!! Think we can agree real JASO MA cert oil made for racing 4t engines, a filter of your persuation, and clean always beats dirty when it comes to oil...

 

Have a good weekend all!



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:19 PM

#14

Just do as Grayracer said.  By a SS filter.  I myself only clean it after about 25 hours, and it doesn't get dirty.  I change my oil every ride.  EVERY RIDE.  Oh, I am a MXer, so that is about every hour.  I just buy Shell or Mobil Big truck oil at Wally World and put in 1000 cc every time. 

 

I have had a 2010, 2011, 2012, and I just got a 2014 450.  Never had a lick of problems with any bikes. Clutches are bulletproof with the oil.  My 2010 had about 120 hours before I changed the piston, rings and timing chain.  I never had to adjust the valves. I just traded it for another bike.

 

Something that did happen on rare occasion on the 2010 Yamaha's was fuel pump problems.  Seems to have stemmed from having a low tank and jumping hard. Nothing to dampen the fuel pump.  I know it was never spouted as a "change" in 2011, but the fuel pump and accordingly, the seat base was changed on the 2011 from the 2010 model.  I know.  I couldn't swap seats. 



  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:29 PM

#15

Just do as Grayracer said.  By a SS filter.  I myself only clean it after about 25 hours, and it doesn't get dirty.  I change my oil every ride.  EVERY RIDE.  Oh, I am a MXer, so that is about every hour.  I just buy Shell or Mobil Big truck oil at Wally World and put in 1000 cc every time. 

 

 

 

 

If you're not taking the filter out, 1000cc (1L) is an overfill. 

 

1qt without the filter, 1L with.



  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:32 PM

#16

always added 50 cc more.  Yamaha rep told my shop that this was OK since it had an internal oil tank.  Just passing along info.  Hey, buy all means just use 950 cc. 



  • Yzflier977

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:42 PM

#17

Wanted to ask a pertenent question here. How often do you guys with stainless filter clean them along with the oil change? I've been changing my oil and cleaning my filter (I have 2 SS so I always have a cleaned and dried one ready) every 4-6 hours. I thought about not cleaning the filter every time I changed the oil because as stated above it never looks dirty. But I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I recently bought a used Dr. D system and since it interferes with the removal of the oil filter cover, oil changes will get a tad more cumbersome. That's what got me to thinking maybe I could go every other oil change to clean/swap the oil filter. I ride exclusively mx and am not a revver or clutch abuser. Thanks.

  • Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:46 PM

#18

As I said in an earlier post above, I go 25 hours.  I change my oil every hour though...

 

Must have a 2009 or prior.  That pipe was made lower so you could bolt on a radiator lowering kit he sells.  I had one of those also.  I let it go hours on that bike also.


Edited by Greg Pennsiltucky Lykens, March 28, 2014 - 02:16 PM.


  • Yzflier977

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:52 PM

#19

Yes sir 2009. Did you use the radiator lowering kit and if so did you notice any positive effects and where? Thanks for the info.

Edited by Yzflier977, March 28, 2014 - 01:55 PM.


  • grayracer513

Posted March 28, 2014 - 01:54 PM

#20

always added 50 cc more.  Yamaha rep told my shop that this was OK since it had an internal oil tank.  Just passing along info.  Hey, buy all means just use 950 cc. 

 

54cc, actually.  That's fine as long as there's room for in the internal tank.  The Gen2 450's start pushing oil out of the tank back into the crankcase when they're more than about 40cc overfilled because there isn't any extra room in there.  As far as I know, the '10-'13 is no different.  Just a sight glass subbing for the dip stick.







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