Posted January 09, 2002 - 06:08 AM
I was just getting ready to service my bike when I noticed my clutch did not seem to be engaging all the way.
If I put the bike into first gear, pull in the clutch and begin to push the bike I can feel the motor going through a compression cycle and the back wheel will drag. Basicly with the clutch pulled in it does not want to free wheel very much. It's not like it's fully engaged.
I never noticed any problem riding and on my last ride I was able to start it in gear with the clutch lever pulled in so I don't know how bad it is. I have adjusted the lever and it did not seem to improve anything. This does not seem normal to me and I am thinking something is either out of adjustment or the clutch is going.
Can anyone tell me if there is anything I should check for adjustments? I have not noticed any clutch fade or that the clutch is slow to let out..
How hard is the clutch to replace as I have never done it before? Should I attempt to do my self or have a shop do it? If I look at having a shop repair it what is the standard shop time for such a procedure? Also is there any recommendations for the clutch parts with out going to expensive or should I go with Yammie parts for an inexpensive fix?
I appreciate any input you might have on this.
Posted January 09, 2002 - 06:28 AM
the early YZF's had some clutch issues. If you are still on your original clutch plates even the ones since you owned it, then you have gotten a good long life out of it. It's time for new plates and springs. The job is super easy. All you do is order a cltuch kit. There are many different choices, Barnett, EBC, I think they are all similar and average around $100 for all plates and new springs. Replacing the clutch is easy.
First, drain your fluid.
Then remover the clutch cover on the right side of your the bike.
You will see the clutch basket. Remove the bolts in alternating pattern across from eachother. The springs will come out with the bolts.
Pull off the basket cover. Then pull off the clutch plates. Pay attention to how they come off. The plates go on in alternating pattern, fiber, metal, fiber, metal, etc. Just put them in the same order that they come off. (They recommend soaking the clutch plates for a bit in oil prior to putting them in.) I have done both ways and haven't found much difference in performance/life.
Put the baket cover back on. Put springs and bolts back in. Torque to (you have to check) spec.
Put cover housing back on bike.
Fill with oil.
RIDE HARD/HAVE FUN.
It's one of those jobs that I initially thought would be tough because I always thought of it in relationship to a car clutch. This job is perfect for a novice mechanic. It really is easy!
Posted January 09, 2002 - 06:49 AM
Posted January 09, 2002 - 12:15 PM
Another question though, you indicated just replacing the plates and springs but what about the clutch basket it self? Should I replace it too?
When inspect everthing what should I look for as signs of problems with the plates springs and basket?
Thanks again for your post and confidence!
Posted January 09, 2002 - 12:58 PM
Just an FYI!!
Posted January 10, 2002 - 01:33 PM
Posted January 11, 2002 - 05:41 AM
I am looking in the chaparal catalog at clutch kits and some are sold as kits and some as components..
1. Are the pressure plates and friction plates the same thing?
2. Do I need to buy the pressure/friction plates and the metal seprator plates?
3. What do I need to freakin order?
I don't really want to go to my local dealer as they have proven to be a bit less than reliable and charge full retail on everthing and they have to order it as well.
I think all I want to do is replace the clutch components and not the clutch basket (unless I find it in bad shape when I tear it down). Does anyone sell a complete kit with the plates and springs?
Posted January 11, 2002 - 07:44 AM
Posted January 11, 2002 - 08:42 AM
Posted January 11, 2002 - 09:27 AM
I am not sure if I could spot problems as described in the baskett and or pressure plates or not but I will will look at them none the less.
I had the motor gone through last year and asked that they inspect the clutch but they did not indicate there was any problems. They did soak me for a crank, piston, cam chain and connecting rod.. when all I need was the valves checked.
Long story.. I took it in for a valve job and they said it was all the other crap making the loud tapping noise and when I got it back it sounded the same.. a week later a valve bent and stuck open because it was too loose. After I paid to have the valve fixed it sounded great - no more tapping noise.. That's why I don't have too much confidence in my local shop.
Thanks for all the the info on this!
Posted January 11, 2002 - 10:39 PM
I have read all the replys and they all have good info. I would however disagree that you should take apart your clutch for any reasons in those replys. The symptom of clutch dragging while pushing it in gear does not indicate a problem with grooved basket or worn plates.
A grooved outer or inner basket will cause a chatter when letting the clutch out. If the plates were sticking in the grooves, rocking the bike back and forth would unstick them. Worn plates or weak springs will cause the clutch to slip under acceleration. Do you have either of those problems?
The two things taht come to mind are, warped steel plates, or all the oil is just squeezed out while the bike sits. I have had Barnett clutches with this problem and found it was caused by not soaking them in oil before installing them. My guess is the steel plates are okay, or it would be hard to start in gear. Does it have the problem after you ride it for a while(hot engine)? Did it just start happening, or did you just notice it happening? Maybe it is not new, but you never noticed it before.
Anyway, my advice would be be sure you have the right oil amount, and use a good quality oil. Leave the clutch alone till it shows signs of wear, and ride it like you stole it .
[ January 11, 2002: Message edited by: YZ400Court ]
Posted January 14, 2002 - 04:20 AM
I don't have any guages so I could not pull the plates and spec them but I put new fluid in it and took it for a ride and everything was fine. I have not noticed any slipage or draging while riding and if I put it in gear at idle the bike is not creeping forward or anything.
I think the clutch is fine but I will keep an eye on it. I am sure I will need one sooner or later and all the info I have received will help a lot when that time comes.
Thanks for all the help!
Posted January 14, 2002 - 04:41 AM
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