2012+ WR450F: Suspension setup question: "Pogo Stick"


27 replies to this topic
  • GP1K

Posted March 17, 2014 - 08:01 AM

#21

So, I checked before replying.

 

The Base Control Valve is at "3 clicks out" from full clockwise.  Recommended setting is "8 clicks out" from full CW.

 

The High Speed Valve and Sweep Control Value are at factory setting.

 

I'm guessing this is not optimal for the conditions I'm describing?

 

Nope too stiff on the low speed. Try it at the factory 8 clicks, it'll work better and you'll be less tired.



  • mebgardner

Posted March 17, 2014 - 11:48 AM

#22

I'm going with GreyRacer's suggestion: 

6 clicks further "out" on front forks compression (his recommendation: 5 to 8 further CCW / "out"). No recommendation on rebound, left that at factory suggested setting.

 

Also, I set the Scotts Hi Speed Valve to an additional 1/4 turn "clockwise". That should help with the bigger, "faster", hits.

 

Also, I'll follow GP1K's suggestion and back off the Scotts Base Valve (from "3 clicks out from full CW")  to their recommended setting of "8 clicks out from full CW".

 

That's plenty enough change from the last ride...



  • GP1K

Posted March 17, 2014 - 12:15 PM

#23

I'm going with GreyRacer's suggestion: 

6 clicks further "out" on front forks compression (his recommendation: 5 to 8 further CCW / "out"). No recommendation on rebound, left that at factory suggested setting.

 

Also, I set the Scotts Hi Speed Valve to an additional 1/4 turn "clockwise". That should help with the bigger, "faster", hits.

 

Also, I'll follow GP1K's suggestion and back off the Scotts Base Valve (from "3 clicks out from full CW")  to their recommended setting of "8 clicks out from full CW".

 

That's plenty enough change from the last ride...

 

IMO you should leave the high speed valve alone. I've never touched mine, and IIRC it's one of those 'don't mess with it unless you really know what you're doing' kind of things. Keep in mind that the high speed valve has more effect as you back the low speed valve off, and has less effect the more you crank the low speed valve.. So backing your low speed valve will already in effect be adding more high speed.

 

You really shouldn't be feeling or noticing your damper (if set correctly) when you ride for the most part. As in, you don't notice the big hits that DIDN'T jerk the bars out of your hands. Make sense?



  • vlxjim

Posted March 17, 2014 - 02:03 PM

#24

Here is what I have. Strange mine is a 2012 and I had these setting as the factory ones. You can see the little change that I run at the end.

 

Forks


Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 12 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
Comp
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 14 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
Shock
 
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 14 clicks out
Min 30 clicks
 
Comp fast
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 7/8 turned out
Min 2 turns out
 
Comp slow
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 10 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
 
Forks 
comp
2 clicks out (softer)
 
Shock
rebound
1 click in (slower)


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  • mebgardner

Posted March 17, 2014 - 05:24 PM

#25

IMO you should leave the high speed valve alone. I've never touched mine, and IIRC it's one of those 'don't mess with it unless you really know what you're doing' kind of things. Keep in mind that the high speed valve has more effect as you back the low speed valve off, and has less effect the more you crank the low speed valve.. So backing your low speed valve will already in effect be adding more high speed.

 

You really shouldn't be feeling or noticing your damper (if set correctly) when you ride for the most part. As in, you don't notice the big hits that DIDN'T jerk the bars out of your hands. Make sense?

 

Yup, makes sense. Thanks!



  • mebgardner

Posted March 17, 2014 - 05:27 PM

#26

 

Here is what I have. Strange mine is a 2012 and I had these setting as the factory ones. You can see the little change that I run at the end.

 

Forks


Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 12 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
Comp
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 14 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
Shock
 
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 14 clicks out
Min 30 clicks
 
Comp fast
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 7/8 turned out
Min 2 turns out
 
Comp slow
Rebound
Max fully in (hard)
Stock 10 clicks out
Min 20 clicks
 
 
Forks 
comp
2 clicks out (softer)
 
Shock
rebound
1 click in (slower)

 

 

Yup, those look like the stock settings I find in the Owners Service manual. I'm glad you put that in here.

 

Edit:

 

Except for the Rear Rebound setting.

 

My manual indicates "stock" setting is "18 clicks out, minimum 30".


Edited by mebgardner, March 17, 2014 - 05:48 PM.


  • Lead Farmer MFR

Posted March 23, 2014 - 12:01 AM

#27

Many thanks for clarifying suspension settings and tuning.

I just returned from Burro Schmidt Tunnel (desert ride) with a friend on a new 2012 WR450. He was pretty beat up riding it, but never put any work into dialing suspension in.

It's like pulling teeth trying to explain suspension settings. Thank you very much for a clear methodology for tuning. Now I just have to talk him into spending a day of test and tune. He's a chef and uncomfortable with anything mechanical. Thinks he can just drop it off at the shop for them to adjust. After watching him and discussing the worn out two-strokes he's ridden previously, I think he needs a plush riding, very compliant and forgiving setup for slower speeds and a beginner-novice rider.  :ride:

The settings (baseline) are going to be an enormous help.


Edited by Lead Farmer MFR, March 23, 2014 - 12:04 AM.


  • mebgardner

Posted March 24, 2014 - 11:20 AM

#28

Many thanks for clarifying suspension settings and tuning.

I just returned from Burro Schmidt Tunnel (desert ride) with a friend on a new 2012 WR450. He was pretty beat up riding it, but never put any work into dialing suspension in.

It's like pulling teeth trying to explain suspension settings. Thank you very much for a clear methodology for tuning. Now I just have to talk him into spending a day of test and tune. He's a chef and uncomfortable with anything mechanical. Thinks he can just drop it off at the shop for them to adjust. After watching him and discussing the worn out two-strokes he's ridden previously, I think he needs a plush riding, very compliant and forgiving setup for slower speeds and a beginner-novice rider.  :ride:

The settings (baseline) are going to be an enormous help.

 

You're welcome. The people on this forum are kind and generous with their time and knowledge, and I too am very grateful for them being here.

 

I'm back from the MotoVentures.com training, using the adjusted suspension settings for the 1st time.  (I backed off from the front forks being "6 clicks out" / CCW, and decided to go with "4 clicks out" / CCW instead.  6 seemed like it would be too much at once.)

 

It's too soon for me to tell if it's improved the front suspension for me. We concentrated on "fundamentals" both days, and I did not get to try "big hits" to the front too much. It was mostly low speed work, at high lean angles. Difficult, and appropriate training, for me.  One time I tried something with a substantial front end "hit" (going over a log), I blew it, did it wrong wound up on my a$$.  What I learned about the suspension, on two attempts, was it deflects (I approached straight, 90 deg to the log). So, based on GreyRacer's explanation, I'll likely try decreasing compression some more ('nother 2 clicks "Out" / CCW).






 
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