'12+ WR450F: Should I install a Heavier flywheel?

Engine Flywheel Weights Yamaha WR450F

61 replies to this topic
  • 080

Posted March 05, 2014 - 12:19 PM

#41

I'm not in a hurry to get that clutch device. At $900 for the latest / greatest Core 3.0 EXP, it's very pricey. I had a fellow offer me a used Core 2.0 Non-EXP, and then he described his experience with it, why he was selling it.

 

Apparently, stalling with that device mounted allows the cycle to roll backwards, downhill, when the engine stalls on a hillside. Without warning. Too late for braking...  The clutch essentially thinks the system is in "neutral" at that time.

 

People swear by them when they love them.  This guy did not like that particular aspect of living with the Rekluse.  When I read that, and considered his $$$ learning "experience", well, I'm not in a hurry...

 

I agree but the advantages of the auto clutch outweigh it not locking gear on a hill, just keep the brake on "problem solved". 4strks in general pop stall without warning at lower rpms "with or without" an auto clutch but in a way that's the warning, keep the revs up a little. To take advantage of an auto clutch its best to be comfortable with the manual one first. Its more like icing on the cake.



  • 3MTA3

Posted March 05, 2014 - 03:14 PM

#42

No bump start with the autoclutch, correct?



  • 080

Posted March 05, 2014 - 04:51 PM

#43

No bump start with the autoclutch, correct?


Correct.

  • 3MTA3

Posted March 05, 2014 - 10:05 PM

#44

Correct.

I assume you have a Rekluse on your bike?  I don't have any experience with them.  I guess it's a whole new learning curve with the loss (partial) of engine braking. Thinking of downhill's and the interaction of brakes and engine braking.  

 

I have always been on the fence about them.  I don't race and as performance mods go, I would have to rank it fairly low for me.  Kinda a nice to have as opposed to suspension (#1 for me), steering damper (close to it), tricked out graphics  :smirk: ...... 



  • 080

Posted March 06, 2014 - 05:45 AM

#45

I assume you have a Rekluse on your bike?  I don't have any experience with them.  I guess it's a whole new learning curve with the loss (partial) of engine braking. Thinking of downhill's and the interaction of brakes and engine braking.  

 

I have always been on the fence about them.  I don't race and as performance mods go, I would have to rank it fairly low for me.  Kinda a nice to have as opposed to suspension (#1 for me), steering damper (close to it), tricked out graphics  :smirk: ...... 

 

There is no lack of engine braking, its still there like with the manual clutch. The only time you lose engine braking is if you pull in the clutch (like normal) or the rpms fall below the engagement point. Personally, engine braking is great down hills with a Uhaul trailer but it just slows me down on my bike. 



  • 3MTA3

Posted March 06, 2014 - 08:31 AM

#46

There is no lack of engine braking, its still there like with the manual clutch. The only time you lose engine braking is if you pull in the clutch (like normal) or the rpms fall below the engagement point. Personally, engine braking is great down hills with a Uhaul trailer but it just slows me down on my bike. 

Yeah, I can see your point about engine braking and downhills.  Now that I think about it a bit deeper, one of the downsides to the manual clutches going downhill is the flameout.  I don't think i was thinking about it because it it almost 2nd nature to me but I believe I do most of the steep, rocky downhils with the clutch pulled in.  Like i said, 2nd nature so I don't even think about it.  I do that to avoid the flameout and to ensure the motor is still running in case I need a quick blip to get me up/over/out of a predicament.  Yes, I am that good :smirk:



  • mc1hd

Posted March 06, 2014 - 09:13 AM

#47

My personal experience is all I can comment on, yes there was a loss of engine braking (core exp 2.0 on a 2012 wr450f).  Bike would freewheel with throttle off trying to roll down fairly steep declines.  Only way to regain engine braking was to get the rpm's back up, not something I wanted  to do in some of the terrain I find myself in.  No bump starting, freewheeling backwards, just not my cup of tea.  Not trying to bad mouth any Rekluse product, there just not for everyone. 



  • 3MTA3

Posted March 06, 2014 - 11:06 AM

#48

Yeah, deffinately a learning curve I would think, or a re-learning curve for someone who has been rididng for awhile.  I like projects, but just not $600-$900 projects.........yet.



  • mebgardner

Posted March 06, 2014 - 11:23 AM

#49

My personal experience is all I can comment on, yes there was a loss of engine braking (core exp 2.0 on a 2012 wr450f).  Bike would freewheel with throttle off trying to roll down fairly steep declines.  Only way to regain engine braking was to get the rpm's back up, not something I wanted  to do in some of the terrain I find myself in.  No bump starting, freewheeling backwards, just not my cup of tea.  Not trying to bad mouth any Rekluse product, there just not for everyone. 

 

This.

 

...puts me "on the fence" for this device. I request New Thread if ya wanna keep talking about it, please.



  • 080

Posted March 06, 2014 - 11:39 AM

#50

This.

 

...puts me "on the fence" for this device. I request New Thread if ya wanna keep talking about it, please.

 

There are plenty of old threads that cover this, I would suggest looking at them first. Any questions beyond that feel free to PM me and I will answer what I can.



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  • cwallershasta

Posted March 06, 2014 - 01:48 PM

#51

I have this same bike and it's awesome, and I say leave it alone and just learn to ride it. If your worried about getting hurt or killed than why are you riding? That is the wrong attitude to have. I say relax, go find a loop that you like, something within fuel range and make sure it has some technical spots to conquer. Then ride the piss out of it as much as you can, get it mastered and move on to a different loop. Riding with people that are better than you is always the way to go, not your buddy on a quad.  What always helped me out when I was learning was every time I would throw a leg over my bike I would say today this bike is not going to kick my ass. 



  • mc1hd

Posted March 06, 2014 - 01:54 PM

#52

This.

 

...puts me "on the fence" for this device. I request New Thread if ya wanna keep talking about it, please.

 

I'm done, back to you and your quest to learn how to ride.



  • Navaho6

Posted March 06, 2014 - 06:04 PM

#53

This.

 

...puts me "on the fence" for this device. I request New Thread if ya wanna keep talking about it, please.

 

From post #42 forward:  http://www.thumperta...ace-bike/page-3



  • mebgardner

Posted March 07, 2014 - 06:46 AM

#54

I have this same bike and it's awesome, and I say leave it alone and just learn to ride it. If your worried about getting hurt or killed than why are you riding? That is the wrong attitude to have. I say relax, go find a loop that you like, something within fuel range and make sure it has some technical spots to conquer. Then ride the piss out of it as much as you can, get it mastered and move on to a different loop. Riding with people that are better than you is always the way to go, not your buddy on a quad.  What always helped me out when I was learning was every time I would throw a leg over my bike I would say today this bike is not going to kick my ass. 

 

I am being "tutored" by a very skilled, long term rider, a very good friend. Him and I discuss the terrain, the difficulty level, the tech we'll encounter, and techniques to ride it.

 

Again, he is a best friend, and we enjoy this together. His teaching method is not best, but he is a willing teacher, and I a willing student. (He likes to throw in confidence crushing terrain occasionally, thats hard on me, we've discussed him not doing this).

 

I would not say I'm "worried" about it. If I was, I would definitely stop doing it (and that will be joy killing, someday, when I have to...).

 

You offer great words of advice. Thank You.



  • mebgardner

Posted March 07, 2014 - 06:58 AM

#55

From post #42 forward:  http://www.thumperta...ace-bike/page-3

 

Ummm, interesting thread. I'll keep learning about this device for awhile.


Motoventures??

 

Set for Mid March. Yay!


Edited by mebgardner, March 07, 2014 - 06:58 AM.


  • jerejim

Posted April 29, 2014 - 05:21 AM

#56

I'm going to try a heavier flywheel weight.  Too many stalls for me at slow speed in hard stuff.   Nobody here really actually addressed that part of his question but anyhow, I think it may help.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted April 29, 2014 - 05:48 AM

#57

My experience with the CORE 2.0:

 

Going downhill: 

 

- if you blip the throttle momentarily, the EXP will engage, and stay engaged, unless you shift up and do not apply throttle ; you can blip again or accelerate to re-engage

- the EXP can go 'limp' if you start down hill in a high gear and then let off the throttle; this is unfortunate, as the higher the gear you are in, the better the rear wheel will track the terrain.

- the key is to blip the throttle or make sure you are above 3k rpm. 

- if you are in a high enough gear going down hill, blipping the throttle will have no effect on your control, but will engage the EXP for some very light engine braking

 

Manual modulation;

 

- clutch feel is like stock..... It just feels like a clutch from a different bike

- modulation is very easy to do (CORE) and very linear; heat seems to have zero affect on this

- clutch 'snapping' to get the front wheel up is fine and the same as stock, but the engagement point is 'bigger' so you have to be more aggressive 

- clutch 'fanning' to get the rpms up works fine and is not an issue

 

Stalling:

 

- you can still stall the motor, but far, far less than without the EXP

- re-starting in gear on a kicker bike has proven to be difficult, but not impossible, with the EXP adjusted per the instructions (very light crawl feeling at idle)

- No bumpy-starty

 

Climbing:

 

- due to the minor slipping of the clutch at lower rpms, the ability to climb sketchy terrain vastly improves traction and control

- throttle feel is slightly 'detached' when in this mode, and you usually have adjust how much throttle is needed over stock (more)

- above the engagement point, you can feel a slightly 'softened' power delivery. 

 

I am running heavy wedges and all silver (softest) springs, to get the fastest and hardest engagement possible


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick, April 29, 2014 - 05:50 AM.


  • 080

Posted April 29, 2014 - 08:16 AM

#58

I'm going to try a heavier flywheel weight.  Too many stalls for me at slow speed in hard stuff.   Nobody here really actually addressed that part of his question but anyhow, I think it may help.

 

To my knowledge no one makes one that fits on the stator?



  • mebgardner

Posted April 29, 2014 - 12:22 PM

#59

...and, I thought there were good answers earlier in this thread, that basically stated that the heavier flywheel idea was a bad idea.

 

They were good enough that they talked me out of fitting a heavier flywheel. (the impetus for this thread).

 

I suggest you read through again, from the top...



  • funt

Posted April 29, 2014 - 02:32 PM

#60

You could get a steel clutch basket for a heavier flywheel effect.







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