yz426 clutch mod, tried everything. still won't work

8 replies to this topic
  • mdemyers

Posted February 26, 2014 - 06:15 PM


I have searched endlessly and it seems no one has run into the same problems I am having.


I have purchased these parts:


5JG-16321-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION
5JG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT
93511-32027-00 BEARING, BALL (PUSH ROD ASSY.)
5BE-16356-00-00 ROD, PUSH 1
5JG-16357-10-00 ROD, PUSH 2


Here is my problem.


I removed all of the friction plates in order. Layed them out so they  had no chance of getting out of order.


I removed the innermost friction plate.


I then installed the plate seat, then the clutch boss, then the new friction plate.


I then put the plates all back in (making sure the innermost plate was removed).


Here is the fun part.


I noticed that the clutch assembly as a whole lines up almost flush with the clutch basket. I assume that is why the new push rods and ball bearing were needed. No problem.........


When I install the new push rods and ball bearing and tighten down all the nuts, the pressure plate sits about let's say 1/4 inch above the friction plate. Needless to say this won't work.


I have also read that the new push rods and ball bearing aren't needed. So I have tried this combination as well.


The problem with this is that in this configuration when I engage the clutch it moves the assembly as a whole, meaning that the pressure plate brings all of the other friction plates outwards with it.


I have tried every clutch cable combination and even unhooked it from the arm. The push lever component just doesn't have the swing needed to push the pressure plate out any farther.


Upon inspecting the New push rods 1 & 2 I can really see no difference so I tried the above with the stock 2 push rods with and without the ball bearing and I get the same result.


I honestly can't think of what I am missing here.


The bike is a year 2000


To answer some questions, yes I have inspected the clutch plates and friction plates for wear and warpage. The clutch basket and hub are not damaged in any way.


Can anyone shed some insight into this?

  • grayracer513

Posted February 27, 2014 - 08:03 AM


To start with, you bought the wrong short pushrod for the conversion.   The long rod was a different part number in the '01 than in the older models, but the changes were to improve clutch oiling, and the same part is now listed for both.  The short rod for the late model, used with the ball, is 5JG-16356-00-00, not 5BE-16356-00-00.  The 5BE is the old design, and you already had one, but that's way too long with the ball. 


The new long push rod is better than your original old one because of the change to the oil metering to the clutch.  The YZF is a dry sump oil system, and the clutch oil is delivered under pressure to the hollow transmission shafts, and the fat part of the push rod at the clutch end is what controls how much oil gets between it and the shaft to oil the clutch.  Otherwise, they're the same, and that's what you should use whether or not you use the ball. 


A note on nomenclature: "clutch boss" is the part name for what most Americans would call the clutch "hub".  The part you refered to by that name is "spring, clutch boss", or, in English, the "clutch boss spring", so called because that's where it goes.  Even without the boss spring, there's nothing unusual about the plate stack "following" the pressure plate out when you watch it.  The plates will want to stick together by their oil film, but they don't do that in operation when the bike's in gear.  When the clutch is turning, disengaged, and the bike's in gear, the plates tend to skim off of each other.  Don't concern your self with that phenomena right now.


The 5JG clutch plate you bought should be the first thing into the basket after you have the seat plate and the boss spring in place.  The inner diameter of this plate is enlarged to accommodate the boss spring.  The function of the spring is to serve as a damper to keep the plates from coming together abruptly, which is what makes the '00 grabby.  The spring has to be compressed a little as the stack comes together.  That feeds into the thing you noticed about the plates moving.


So, your assembly of the clutch is right; seat plate (thin steel ring), boss spring, new friction plate, 8 of the original frictions for a total of 9, don't see a problem.  Since you don't have the 5JG short push rod, don't use the ball, but do use the new long push rod.  Put it together.  It should work.

  • mdemyers

Posted February 27, 2014 - 11:51 AM


Thanks for taking the time to clearly explain everything. I only thought the entire stack moving together was odd because as I was trouble shooting I put it back together the original way and saw that the pressure plate would slightly separate from the stack. Also when I went to move the bike in gear, with the clutch depressed, the bike would not move.


I wasn't expecting that as my motorcycles move in gear with the clutch, but I discovered this was normal.


I'm just getting into dirtbiking and I found this bike at a yard sale for a  steal and it looked brand new still so I'm doing a few things before I take it on the trails.


Actually now that I'm comparing parts. I bought an entire assembly from a 2002 yz426f(used). The part number listed for the short push rod is indeed 5JG-16356-00-00.


(I copied and pasted that part list from another site without checking for errors)


This assembly didn't come with the ball bearing however.


Can it be safe to assume that the wrong assembly was sent to me? Comparing my original push rod assembly to the 2002 assembly I purchased I truly can't see a difference.


I have however just put the assembly back together minus the new push rods, but I would like to update them as well since that's what the mod calls for.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 27, 2014 - 12:01 PM


There should be two obvious differences in the 5BE and 5JG short push rods: the length (the 5JG is shorter by roughly 2/3 the ball), and the 5JG has a concave pocket on the inboard end to accommodate the ball.

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  • mdemyers

Posted February 27, 2014 - 12:21 PM




Thanks again for taking the time to help me. I have a last couple things.


So I found the "real" 5JG part for 15$ online. I'm going to purchase it and hopefully it will be the correct one.


Comparing my old short rod and the new one I can't really see a difference also in their length or design.


This concaveness you talk about. It seems like both these push rods have it. This is the best picture I could take of it which I can't figure out how to upload to here so I made it my profile pictures.


Im assuming that it is more than likely the incorrect short push rod.



This is the new push rod assembly I originally purchased for the mod.


  • grayracer513

Posted February 27, 2014 - 01:03 PM


Can't tell anything from that.  Too small. 


To upload, either post the pictures at a host site like Photobucket and link to them, or click the "more reply options button at the bottom of the "Reply to this topic" window.  The full editor has an attach files function at the bottom of that page.

  • mdemyers

Posted February 27, 2014 - 02:54 PM


Ok thanks.


here is the larger picture.

Attached Thumbnails

  • WP_20140227_004.jpg

  • grayracer513

Posted February 28, 2014 - 06:40 AM


That's the early one.

  • mdemyers

Posted March 01, 2014 - 12:27 PM


Gotcha. I suspect I got the wrong assembly the first time.


the new parts are on the way and that should clear things up.


Thanks for taking the time to help me out. Maybe I can pay it forward if someone else runs into the same problems.

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