Another wr wiring rectifier and battery question

[h24]

I've searched for some info. Ive found some, but not quite everything pertaining to my application. I'm converting to a regulator, rectifier. I was wondering if I eliminate my current regulator, when wiring in my regulator/rectifier, do I parallel a seperate dc system for my led lighting and led flasher? or do I take the yellow wire from the stator and run it through the rectifier and run 12v to the cdi, or keep the 12v seperate only for lighting? Also, can I get by without a battery? I was told by baja designs, that if I an their reg/rec w/o a battery, it would burn it up. Or can I just use a capacitor instead of a battery. It appears the bike is a 99 wr400 with 426 cylinder, at least the wiring is off the 99 I assume. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[G_H]

Similar discussion in:
https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/920533-minimalist-dual-sport-build-on-a-wr400f-questions/

[h24]

Thank you GH, So If I just run the rectifier for the led flasher and led turn signals, can I run ac to an led headight, tail, and brake light? Also, if this way works, do I just "T" into the yellow wire from stator and run rectifier in parallel for the led flasher?  I would assume a capacitor in series to the led relay also.

[G_H]

Yes, the LEDs work with AC as well as DC. They will actually produce a flashing light (on AC current) but as it flashes with a very high frequency humans do not detect that. it looks just the same as on DC current.
Yes, just install the rectifier parallel to the AC circuit. Just remember that you cannot use common ground between the systems. The DC system must have separate ground wires compared to the AC system (which uses the frame of the bike as ground lead). A capacitor helps to smooth out the DC current so that's a good idea.

[h24]

Ok, Thank you very much! Making a lot clearer for me. A couple more questions, Sorry, I just want to get this right the first time. I can just "T" the yellow wire before the stock regulator, or does it matter if its regulated ac before it goes into the reg/rec? Or should I run the ac/ yellow wire, from the stator up to the light switch and catch the ac yellow current after the switch, and go to the rectifier then. That way the new reg/rec isn't "absorbing" current when I try to start it. Sorry for the questions, but you are making it make sense, and I really appriciate it! I guess my main goal, is to run no battery, and led lighting from front to back. If one way is better for this scenario, i.e. as much as I can off ac, and only led blinker and led signals off of dc, than let me know. Also, do you have a recommended size of capacitor? Thank you again.

Edited February 14, 2014 by h24

[h24]

Well I got my harness done and fired the bike up tonight. Everything worked great..... till the turn signals quit. They were working fine, after about the 3rd time I tested it, they quit flashing. Now when I turn the turn signal switch either left or right, that signals just barely light up, really dim and they don't flash. I have a baja designs reg/rec. running just a 12v led flasher that runs front and rear led signals. I have a 3300uf capacitor in between the rectifier and led flasher. Maybe the cheap $6 flasher went out already. Do I even need the capacitor in this application? Input would be appreciated!

[flyandride]

A better idea would be to float the ground and convert the whole system to DC with a battery.  I've tried doing something similar to what you're doing and it never worked.  I converted 2 WRs to DC and made a separate harness for the lighting.  Lights and horn work better on DC.  

[h24]

Yeah, the only part that is having a problem is the dc part. It worked perfect for about 5 min. The dc section if floated. I think I might have a failed dc led flasher, or the capacitor is no good. I'll test them when I get off work today and see what is up. I don't have room for a battery at the moment, without modifying what I have, not really looking to stuff a bunch of stuff in the airbox.