Is your Clutch a Drag? Can't find Neutral?



55 replies to this topic
  • beezer

Posted February 10, 2014 - 05:47 AM

#21

Wow the internet. Come on Breezer A WR450 that starts it in gear. Really.

 

Hum well I guess mine do also. Ah barley. Well all three of the bikes will start in gear struggling at best and clutch dragging like heck.

 

 I looked it up long ago and found the fix on the 250's but no one posted it on the 450'S and never got around to trying it.  Think it's called the .79 cent fix.

 

Anyways a big thanks Krannie for posting your findings and the fix on Yamaha's clutch drag problem !

 

It didn't until I put in Hotcams.

 

BTW the fix for the WR250 is to use Honda CRF250 drive plates.



  • stevethe

Posted February 10, 2014 - 07:04 AM

#22

All of you who put in the washers, please send me $49.99 plus shipping and handling.

 

 

krannie   half seems reasonable for my cut for clueing you in on this trick don't stress your self trying to figure out half of 49.99 just round it off to 25 American dollars and remember I do charge a already reduced 10% book keeping fee for tt members

 


Hey wait a minute peace-cool here. Oops I mean peace, Kool the original inventors came from here http://www.thumperfa...clutch_mods.htm

 

and the real trick for a slipping wr250 is............. Bultaco plates.  I prefer the obnoxious taco plate. 



  • Baja trail Rider

Posted February 10, 2014 - 09:04 AM

#23

If you will take pesos,I will send it.It may take some time,the mail man here,rides a donkey.BTR



  • vlxjim

Posted February 10, 2014 - 05:30 PM

#24

You nee to understand that the washer goes inside the spring, not under it.  The effective length of the shoulder on the spring bolt becomes longer by the thickness of the washer, giving the spring that much less preload.

Thats what I was thinking. But if you look at the photos it is clear that the washers used are not fitting inside the spring, But instead at the end therefor not changing the setup at all. Were the washer or spacer should go inside the spring for less compression. There is a link posted to the first write up that states that it must fit inside the spring. So if the op's springs do not go over the washer he has done nothing to change the setup but to at weight.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 10, 2014 - 05:55 PM

#25

Hmm, maybe you are right, that the spring should go inside, but it still does reduce the spring pressure.


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick, February 10, 2014 - 06:01 PM.


  • RMK800

Posted February 10, 2014 - 06:54 PM

#26

So I just tried this tonight. Went around the block a few times. Maybe it's because I haven't ridden in 4 months, but I noticed the clutch was quite a bit stiffer to pull. Is there an adjustment that can be made for this? or is this a negative of this adjustment.

  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 10, 2014 - 07:51 PM

#27

So I just tried this tonight. Went around the block a few times. Maybe it's because I haven't ridden in 4 months, but I noticed the clutch was quite a bit stiffer to pull. Is there an adjustment that can be made for this? or is this a negative of this adjustment.


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick, February 11, 2014 - 05:09 PM.


  • RMK800

Posted February 10, 2014 - 08:23 PM

#28

Slip 6 mm (M6) washers over the bolts. Make sure they fit inside the springs. MAKE SURE the thickness of the washers is equal! If one is thicker it will warp the pressure plate and cause the same problem you're trying to fix! Measure the washers with a micrometer or digital calipers. The thickness should be approximately 0.06 inches.




I went to my local hardware store and because of the picture purchased a M8 washer that was 6mm wide. Reading the original post I should have bought a M6 and drop the washer in the spring? The M6 washer I noticed was fairly small, but I didn't get that one, just didn't seem right.

  • RMK800

Posted February 10, 2014 - 08:38 PM

#29


For unknown reasons, the YZF clutch springs (see part numbers are different than the WRF clutch springs, although the rest of the clutch components appear to be the same. Many TTers, including myself, have indicated that replacing the WRF springs with YZF springs improves the notchiness and neutral problems on the WRF. The YZF springs are ~3/16" inch longer. The paint on the WRF spring marking the tension strength is yellow and the on the YZF spring is a pink. This notes a different tension. The pull is a little stiffer with the YZF springs.



By adding the washer on top of the spring by the bolt. Is this basically what a yz spring would do. He does mention the pull is stiffer.

  • grayracer513

Posted February 11, 2014 - 07:34 AM

#30

Hmm, maybe you are right, that the spring should go inside, but it still does reduce the spring pressure.

 

Not really.  A washer placed unedr the spring on either end preloads it farther, and at any given point in the travel of the pressure plate, the spring will have that much more pressure on it.  The 79 cent fix is done with the washer under the bolt, inside the spring, which makes the spring preload less.

 

The YZF has beefier springs because they use the same clutch with a 20% more powerful engine.



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  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2014 - 07:41 AM

#31

Not really.  A washer placed unedr the spring on either end preloads it farther, and at any given point in the travel of the pressure plate, the spring will have that much more pressure on it.  The 79 cent fix is done with the washer under the bolt, inside the spring, which makes the spring preload less.

 

The YZF has beefier springs because they use the same clutch with a 20% more powerful engine.

yeah, I'm an idiot.

 

I will get correct washers in there.  It does go into neutral better, for some reason....



  • stevethe

Posted February 11, 2014 - 09:18 AM

#32

I think lock washers fit inside the spring.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2014 - 09:40 AM

#33

I think lock washers fit inside the spring.

 

That is what the OP in the 250 forum used.



  • beezer

Posted February 11, 2014 - 12:26 PM

#34

Well........... it's back to the old drawing board.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 11, 2014 - 12:30 PM

#35

DOH!

 

:smashpc:  :smashpc:  :smashpc:  :smashpc:  :lame:  :naughty:  :rant:  :thumbsdn:  :thumbsdn:  :thumbsdn:



  • stevethe

Posted February 11, 2014 - 02:35 PM

#36

I had the right washers sitting around.  However it still drags in gear when it's cold.  Haven't started it yet.  It'll get used on the weekend.



  • vlxjim

Posted February 11, 2014 - 02:54 PM

#37

For those that don't understand here is a graphic. You need to make sure that the washer is inside the coils of the springs acting like a spacer. This will put less compression (preload) on springs giving less compression to the clutch plates. The opposite would be installing a washer that fits over the threaded boss down at the bottom preloading the springs giving you more compression and a tighter clutch. If you use a washer the same size as the bolt it will provide no change in compression and just add weight to the clutch assembly.

 

12467783404_9b77650d52_o.jpg



  • stevethe

Posted February 11, 2014 - 03:03 PM

#38

I did not take the springs out.  The washers dropped through the spring into the boss.



  • vlxjim

Posted February 11, 2014 - 03:13 PM

#39

I did not take the springs out.  The washers dropped through the spring into the boss.

That was not posted for you. Its for those that read this tread an get confused by the miss information. This will help make it more clear I hope.



  • RMK800

Posted February 11, 2014 - 03:19 PM

#40

Thank you for posting that explanation! Helped a lot.

One question though, by dropping the washer in the spring, would it ever bind up?




 
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