Aftermarket Head Pipes

Exhaust Headers

17 replies to this topic
  • mrgem

Posted January 30, 2014 - 03:57 PM

#1

My 2003 450 was sold to me with a fancy racing exhaust -- an FMF Titanium 4 with an FMF titanium Power Bomb header. 

 

While these 2 components are no doubt lighter and better performing than the factory original stuff, they are loud and cause the bike to pop on deceleration. I've even purchased and added a "quiet core" insert and USFS approved spark arrestor end cap (both titanium as well, I believe) but the bike is still too loud for my tastes. The Yamaha dealer tells me that these pipes are all prone to the problems I've cited for bikes used at altitude and suggests I go back to the factory stuff. 

 

The guy who sold the bike to me actually gave me the original muffler (virtually unused as the original selling dealer put the FMF on it before it left the showroom). But he could not find the original head pipe. 

 

I've been running a WTB ad here on the classified page asking to purchase a factory head pipe, but have not gotten even one offer to sell. I've found them on eBay but it seems they are usually in bad shape. That leads me to a question for all of you:

 

Are there aftermarket head pipes (preferably stainless for durability) that will work with my factory muffler? If there are, whose pipes represent the best value? 

 

I'd also like to get your take on any other possible solutions to my noise and decel popping from the FMF. It could be there is a better solution to going back to stock. 

 

TIA



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 30, 2014 - 04:14 PM

#2

All the OEM headers are steel for the WR.

You should be able to fine one on ebay no problem.

The '03-06 are exactly the same.

The '07-'11 are nearly the same and still work, they just end up sticking out more.

 

Typically, it will be hard to find an aftermarket header only, for your bike, as they made full systems and slips on's in quantity, but headers alone not so much.



  • Krimble

Posted January 30, 2014 - 04:40 PM

#3

No, the 03's and 04's have Titanium headers, but the 05+ All have Stainless.

Looking in the TT store, the 03 and 04 exhaust are listed at $320.95, and the 05+ are listed at $236.49.

Obviously because of the price difference of titanium compared to SS.



  • mrgem

Posted January 30, 2014 - 05:19 PM

#4

No, the 03's and 04's have Titanium headers, but the 05+ All have Stainless.

Looking in the TT store, the 03 and 04 exhaust are listed at $320.95, and the 05+ are listed at $236.49.

Obviously because of the price difference of titanium compared to SS.

In either case, they sound like budget busters. Are you aware of an aftermarket unit that will work with the factory 03 muffler?



  • Krimble

Posted January 30, 2014 - 05:46 PM

#5

In either case, they sound like budget busters. Are you aware of an aftermarket unit that will work with the factory 03 muffler?

You could buy a used one as this. http://www.ebay.ca/i...&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

 

I recently bought a new GYTR Carbon exhaust for my 03 WR, Unfortunately I am in the process of rebuilding the engine, so I have not put it on yet. Cannot wait to hear it, as I found my stock exhaust with no baffle was a bit too loud. 



  • jimmym

Posted January 30, 2014 - 05:49 PM

#6

I have a 2011, and after I busted up my header I hunted for a replacement without any luck. Nothing seemed to fit the stock muffler. I even bought one on eBay that was supposedly stock Yamaha, but it must have been GYTR because the diameter was too large to fit the muffler (it's still sitting here on my desk as a reminder).

I finally gave up and just bought an aftermarket DrD system. Definitely more than I wanted to spend, but very impressed with the quality, power gain, and sound. BTW, after replacing the exhaust I had the same popping, fire spewing problem on decel, and finally resolved it with a new header gasket.


Edited by jimmiller, January 30, 2014 - 05:56 PM.


  • mrgem

Posted January 30, 2014 - 05:59 PM

#7

You could buy a used one as this. http://www.ebay.ca/i...&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

 

I recently bought a new GYTR Carbon exhaust for my 03 WR, Unfortunately I am in the process of rebuilding the engine, so I have not put it on yet. Cannot wait to hear it, as I found my stock exhaust with no baffle was a bit too loud. 

Thanks. Saw that one on eBay. Has a nasty dent in it.

 

Some here have said that is because the 03s used a titanium head pipe from the factory -- which was very prone to denting when hot. Other threads I've read suggest that you can switch to a WR426 pipe, which is the same design, but made of steel -- and therefore sturdier. 

 

Always thought the 426 Motor was quite different from the 450, and that no parts were interchangeable. I've found several 426 pipes...and they are considerably less expensive than those 450 pipes that I found.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted January 30, 2014 - 06:01 PM

#8

No, the 03's and 04's have Titanium headers, but the 05+ All have Stainless.

Looking in the TT store, the 03 and 04 exhaust are listed at $320.95, and the 05+ are listed at $236.49.

Obviously because of the price difference of titanium compared to SS.

 

Both of my '03's had stock stainless steel headers.

 

Replacements are easy to find

 

http://www.ebay.com/...F-/360827758244



  • mrgem

Posted January 30, 2014 - 07:09 PM

#9

Both of my '03's had stock stainless steel headers.

 

Replacements are easy to find

 

http://www.ebay.com/...F-/360827758244

Thanks. I saw that header, and had been concerned about the big dent in the bend. However, it's probably typical of any header that's been around that long. 

 

You might find this thread from this forum way back in 2005 interesting. http://www.thumperta...50-header-pipe/

 

One thing I have found: the headers from the 2003 and 2004 models are substantially more expensive than other years' in Yamaha's parts listing. Not sure why, but the difference in material could account for the price.

difference.

 

I suppose I really shouldn't care too much about what they are made of -- just so they perform adequately.  



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  • mrgem

Posted February 02, 2014 - 03:14 PM

#10

Well, I'm throwing in the towell and going back to 100% stock components. I know it will slow the bike down and that it is heavier than the FMF on there now, but I just cannot seem to make this thing quiet enough and quit popping on deceleration. I Tried to fit the stock muffler on the Power Bomb header, but no dice. The outside diameter of the FMF "powerbomb" is just ever so slightly larger than the inside diameter of the original muffler's midpipe.

 

So the FMF Titanium 4 and the Powerbomb are going to find a new home. They are now on the classifieds here. 

 

I've bought a dented stock 2003 head pipe from some salvage outfit on eBay($75 with shipping)  and will put it and the original muffler on the bike. Hopefully, the bike will run better and quieter. I'm gonna try to repair the dent using the "freezer method." Certainly can't hurt -- and some here say it works like a charm.

 

Thanks to all who offered their advice on this problem. 



  • beairmo

Posted February 03, 2014 - 05:31 AM

#11

I did the same exact thing with my 09 WR450F… I bought it used with FMF Ti and power bomb header already installed. Couldn't get rid of the popping after trying everything. Put the stock exhaust on (never used) and problem solved. I really miss the extra power though. Very much noticeable…



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 03, 2014 - 06:32 AM

#12

Popping on deceleration means a pilot circuit air leak, or a non-working Automatic Coast Valve.

 

Both easy fixes.

 

The pipe is not the issue.  The better pipe has leaned out the pilot circuit too much, and you need to compensate for it. 

Usually, cleaning the ACV parts, a fresh fuel screw o-ring, and proper fuel screw adjustment is all you need.

Most people do not adjust the fuel screw correctly, and just make the problem worse.

 

My head is stage 3 ported with YZ cams, and a full race loud pipe, and I get ZERO deceleration popping.


Edited by TheKoolAidMadeMeSick, February 03, 2014 - 06:34 AM.


  • mrgem

Posted February 03, 2014 - 07:34 AM

#13

Popping on deceleration means a pilot circuit air leak, or a non-working Automatic Coast Valve.

 

Both easy fixes.

 

The pipe is not the issue.  The better pipe has leaned out the pilot circuit too much, and you need to compensate for it. 

Usually, cleaning the ACV parts, a fresh fuel screw o-ring, and proper fuel screw adjustment is all you need.

Most people do not adjust the fuel screw correctly, and just make the problem worse.

 

My head is stage 3 ported with YZ cams, and a full race loud pipe, and I get ZERO deceleration popping.

 I don't disagree with your diagnosis. There's no question that the thing is running too lean between zero and 25% throttle -- which (as you sat) points a finger at the ACV and/or the pilot circuit. The bike runs fine from 25% throttle and up. And I can control the popping by simply pulling the choke out. That tells a story as well.

 

I have pointed this out to the dealer (who has the best Yamaha service reputation in this area) and he tells me he's checked and adjusted those things when he rebuilt the carb. He blames a basic incompatibility between super low restriction race pipes and WRs at altitude.

 

I appreciate what you are saying and believe that your specific experience with this bike and this carb is important. But I'm not sure what else I can do, other than find another tech and go on a fishing expedition. Eddie Sisneros (Sisneros Speed Works) has done fine tuning on the FCR on my DRZ400 and it runs great -- but he's principally a Suzuki guy. 

 

So, I'm gonna re-fit the heavier and more restrictive stock system and see if it cures the problem. I'm also expecting the bike to quiet down a lot with the factory pipe -- which is also important where we ride. Yes, I'm gonna add pounds and subtract horsepower, but I'm betting this bike will still feel pretty fast and light compared to my DR-Zs. I'm also adding a hand adjustable pilot screw (although the dealer has advised me it is "not needed"). I've worked on too many car and bike carbs over the year to believe that the idle/fuel screw is a "set it and forget it" kinda deal. We ride from 7k to 12.5 k feet above sea level -- and you've got to be able to quickly compensate for 5000 foot changes in elevation.

 

If going back to the stock setup doesn't fix the problem -- or creates new problems -- the bike will go back to the dealer as a "Come Back." 

 

Again -- I appreciate all the advice you and others here have given me, but I have to give the dealer a chance to prove or disprove his theory that the FMF is the problem -- not the carb.

 

The good  news: Riding season here won't really start until March/April. And then it will be in the western desert -- not up here in the clouds. So the dealer and I have a few weeks of experimentation before it cuts into my riding time.

 

Thanks again for the all the advice!



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 03, 2014 - 09:28 AM

#14

Okay, some red flags from the dealer: 

 

 I'm also adding a hand adjustable pilot screw (although the dealer has advised me it is "not needed")

 

If a mechanic working on one of my bikes said this I would tell them " WTF are you talking about??"

It is absolutely, positively needed....unless you always ride in an area that never changes humidity, altitude or temperature!

 

If you have not read the 'pinned post' at the top of this and the jetting forum on how to 'properly set you pilot', you will be chasing these problems for ever.

 

Just so you know, most dealers have absolutely NO CLUE how to properly set up the bikes they sell. 

 

You need to learn how to do this yourself, or be frustrated, guaranteed.



  • DeepPurplishBlue

Posted February 03, 2014 - 10:26 AM

#15

The stock silencer on the 2003 WR450 is not a very desirable piece.   I run the YZ silencers on all of my WRs

it works pretty good.   Isn't obnoxiously loud but it is a lot less restrictive than the WR silencer.  A lot lighter

as well!

 

Rather than waste any money or time on the stock WR piece I would recommend looking for the YZ units if

you are wanting to go back to factory Yamaha bits on the exhaust.   Good specimens of the YZ silencer show

up on ebay pretty regular.  

 

The header pipe is the same on both the the YZ and WR for 2003.   Usually is not too difficult to find a decent

one on ebay for a reasonable price.



  • Krannie McKranface

Posted February 03, 2014 - 11:50 AM

#16

Agreed.

Plus, you can add a spark arrester from PMB that works great.

Stock YZ exhaust is quieter then aftermarket exhausts. 



  • beairmo

Posted February 03, 2014 - 12:57 PM

#17

I did the same exact thing with my 09 WR450F… I bought it used with FMF Ti and power bomb header already installed. Couldn't get rid of the popping after trying everything. Put the stock exhaust on (never used) and problem solved. I really miss the extra power though. Very much noticeable…

 

 

Actually, my popping actually must have been related to a small leak in the head crush gasket. I think I had overtightened the header bolts which bent the flange making it not perfectly tight. 

 

But after riding it with the stock exhaust I decided to leave it on until I can get some riding with it to see how it does. The FMF keeps melting my turn signal also so thats another plus for the stock can. 



  • mrgem

Posted February 03, 2014 - 04:38 PM

#18

Okay, some red flags from the dealer: 

 

 I'm also adding a hand adjustable pilot screw (although the dealer has advised me it is "not needed")

 

If a mechanic working on one of my bikes said this I would tell them " &%$#@! are you talking about??"

It is absolutely, positively needed....unless you always ride in an area that never changes humidity, altitude or temperature!

 

If you have not read the 'pinned post' at the top of this and the jetting forum on how to 'properly set you pilot', you will be chasing these problems for ever.

 

Just so you know, most dealers have absolutely NO CLUE how to properly set up the bikes they sell. 

 

You need to learn how to do this yourself, or be frustrated, guaranteed.

LOL -- I like the way you put that!

 

Yes, the dealer is mistaken. What Yamaha (and the other manufacturers for that matter) teach these guys is that the factory engineering is infallible. That is to say -- it cannot be improved upon in most cases. Many street bikes have their fuel adjustment screws plugged off and if you ask a factory trained tech, many will tell you its because it doesn't need to be messed with. 

 

I haven't tackled this myself because I want to start with a performance baseline that I can have complete confidence in. I can improve the bike from there, noting what changes improve and which do not. 

 

As a young guy, I worked on my own race bikes, but they were two strokes and much simpler than these sophisticated thumpers. I was fearless. I was too stupid to know that I was ignorant. I'd borrow the tools and split the cases - and usually got away with it. But I am much more cautious now -- because of the complexity of the bikes and because I can afford to be more cautious. 

 

I have confidence this bike will get sorted out.

 

Again, thanks for the gold mine of information you've provided. 







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